Questions about my 24 stud motor

[snappydon]

Ok...so I've started the process of getting my 37 fire truck back in service. It hasn't ran in over 7 years. This is my first experience with a flathead so I'm learning as I go with it. The truck has had the original 21 stud motor replaced with a 24 stud at some time. I'm attaching a few pics so that maybe you guys can help me identify exactly which 24 stud motor it is. I'm leaning towards 38-41 but I'm not sure.

I pulled the radiator and was pleasantly surprised to find it 3/4 full of nice clean antifreeze.

I pulled the carb off and have it disassembled in carb cleaner, pulled the fuel pump and let it drain all the old gas out. The gas stinks terrible but both the carb and the pump are nice and clean with no gummy varnish.

I pulled the plugs, and they all looked really good. I then squirted MMO into the cylinders and up around the valves as much as possible. Let it sit for a few days then carefully tried turning the crank. It turned 360 degrees quite easily and seemed to have only 1 spot where it had a very minor bit of resistance. I let it sit again for a few days and gave it another try. This time it spun really easy and I felt no resistance anywhere. Looking down the plug holes I can see a few of the valves were stuck...I took a hose removal tool/pick and inserted it into the plug hole and then GENTLY turned it so that the pick end was on top of the valve. With very little pressure I got most of the valves to POP back down. But not all of them. Even after rotating it so that all should be opening and closing. So now I'm thinking I'll pull the intake manifold off and try freeing up the rest from the inside.

Are there any tricks or pitfalls that I need to be aware of when pulling the manifold? Also are there differences in the intake gaskets in the 24 stud motors?

The cylinder heads only have an "A" cast into them that I can see...between that and the distributor I'm thinking 38-41...

Thanks!

[Kurt in NJ]

If it sat a long time you may want to remove the pan to clean out the sludge ---if the oil on the dipstick looks clean most likely all the crud in the oil settled out and it can block the oil pickup, I have seen it over 4" deep with clean new looking oil on top

the intake manifold has no hidden traps except to be aware of the fuel pump rod (and possible tenants living within)

[snappydon]

Thanks Kurt...I got the intake manifold off and was shocked at how much sludge was built up in the valley. So I'm thinking your suggestion of removing the pan is very good, as the oil on the dipstick does look nice and clean. I didn't realize these motors didn't have a filtration system...explains the buildup of sludge. I suppose years of the truck just sitting idling while on fire calls hasn't helped with the sludge problem.

[deuce_roadster]

Yes, extended idling plus the oil back then was paraffin based which when mixed with combustion contaminants turned wax like when cooled off. If the valley is that bad the pan may even be worse. I would remove the pan and also clean the screen on the oil pump pickup.

[JSeery]

While the pan is off it might also be a good time to clean the valley area (let the sludge fall through to the ground/floor/container).

[Drbrown]

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Nice "save" and project Snappydon ! Keep us posted on your progress.