'39 pedals with 8BA bellhousing?

[DirtyDan]

I used 39 pedals in my 36 w/ a T-5 conversion and 8BA. I used the truck bellhousing and a 39 type clutch lever. Worked out great. I tried using the 40 ford style ball pivot set up w/ the 8BA tab style clutch rod since I already had the pedals and couldnt find a good 39 lever, but I had a tough time getting the geometry right on it and the clutch was very hard to engage.

I have some pics in my build thread below:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32731

[BobM]

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

I used 39 pedals in my 36 w/ a T-5 conversion and 8BA. I used the truck bellhousing and a 39 type clutch lever. Worked out great. I tried using the 40 ford style ball pivot set up w/ the 8BA tab style clutch rod since I already had the pedals and couldnt find a good 39 lever, but I had a tough time getting the geometry right on it and the clutch was very hard to engage.

I have some pics in my build thread below:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32731

Dan, your adapter looks like it has a FORD cross shaft in it so you didn't actually hook '39 clutch linkage to an 8BA style "stamped steel clutch release arm," am I correct. What I'm trying to do is make the '39 clutch lever work with the stamped clutch release arm & am beginning to think it can't be done & probably shouldn't . Am a rookie in this particular area.

[rotorwrench]

A fellow can make anything work if you apply some thought & energy toward it. Now whether you have the time it takes is another thing. Ford made it work in the later wide frame cars but the narrow frame cars required engineering the fit of the components plus any other component that might have to be worked into the mix. Currently, the alternatives are still reasonalbly priced and will save you time on the side of practicality.

[BobM]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

A fellow can make anything work if you apply some thought & energy toward it. Now whether you have the time it takes is another thing. Ford made it work in the later wide frame cars but the narrow frame cars required engineering the fit of the components plus any other component that might have to be worked into the mix. Currently, the alternatives are still reasonalbly priced and will save you time on the side of practicality.

I've got time but short on fabricating expertise. Am now beginning to believe using an adapter is the best way to go as it will allow me to use my '39 pedals and linkage. Have spoken to Larry at WILCAP/SHARP and was very helpful even though I told him I probably wouldn't be using one of his adapters as I thought I had the linkage problem sorted out. I think I will be giving Larry a call again. Thanks for your input.

[Scott De Shields]

If you can get your hands on the April 1990 edition of Street Rodder Magazine there is and article on Pg 108 that might help you out. The 39 push rod arm is replaced with a fabricated arm that is 2.75" center of pedal shaft to new rod end hole. I made my own rod from mild steel pullrod and threaded both ends and used a 351C Ford rocker arm fulcrum and nut and used spherical rod end with integral post and lock nut on the other end. Even though I have a toploader hooked to a SBC this system has performed well for me for 15 years. Hope this information clears things up for you

[flatjack9]

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Lots of people with lots of different ideas. This is really a simple thing. The lever I rotated is the one on the 39 pedal shaft. Then I used a rod to actuate the stock stamped arm on the bellhousing and I think I did use something like a rocker pivot on the clutch end of the rod. It pulls instead of pushing because the lever is behind the throwout arm. When you step on the clutch pedal, the rod pulls the arm and disengages the clutch.

[BobM]

Originally Posted by Scott De Shields

If you can get your hands on the April 1990 edition of Street Rodder Magazine there is and article on Pg 108 that might help you out. The 39 push rod arm is replaced with a fabricated arm that is 2.75" center of pedal shaft to new rod end hole. I made my own rod from mild steel pullrod and threaded both ends and used a 351C Ford rocker arm fulcrum and nut and used spherical rod end with integral post and lock nut on the other end. Even though I have a toploader hooked to a SBC this system has performed well for me for 15 years. Hope this information clears things up for you

Scott, ok, am beginning to better understand the problem at hand now. Understand spherical connection at clutch pedal arm but why the rocker arm fulcrum on the clutch release arm, wouldn't a nut on the end work? Am working on getting the April, '90 STREET RODDER. Next thing is a trip to ANAHEIM GEAR to set up top loadder with the Jeep shifter.