keeping the patina

[32forddump]

I have 1927 model t that was a barn find. It is in very good shape for its year but has some surface rust. Can i apply some paint to rusted areas in some fashion so it blends with the old paint?is there a way of fixing surface rust without screwing up the old paint job?

[BORN2L8]

Looks nice. It looks worth keeping it just the way it is. It tells a story of being there over the years. Patina and a little surface rust kind of go hand in hand. A type of clear satin sealer over surface rust in spots might offer protection without changing the look too much IF blended in carefully. Controlling moisture exposure from here on will help too.

[Jack Innes]

You will find rubbing the car down with motor oil or better, Rust Check oil, will remove the loose surface rust & darken the rest wile slowing further rust. If you rub it well it becomes alost a dry surface.


If you want to really preserve it without losing the patina you can treat the rusted areas with Tannic acid; see http://www.cci-icc.gc.ca/publication...s/9-5-eng.aspx . This is from a conservation institute point of view - you can simplify the process.


The car to the left has its original finish, now 108 years old, treated with tannic acid several years ago. I applied a film of Rust Check oil to the treated steel areas with a rag after the tannic acid treatment.
All areas with surface rust have become very stable with no signs of further corrosion.

This process is used in museums to preserve ancient weapons & other iron artifacts. The result is a black phosphate surface that stops further rusting.

[yachtsmanbill]

I would agree with Jack with a caveat: Get a gallon and a weed sprayer and SATURATE it... as in between where panel joints overlap etc, then rub her down really good with a piece of burlap. Got to the 5 cent (LOL) car wash, clean her up and repeat the saturation. Let it sit in the sun for a few days on something like gravel that wont die or stain and let the warm sum help it drip dry. Wipe down the areas that get handled, like doors, and steering wheel, and go have some fun.
Id also pull anything that looks like a mouse habitat thatll hold any moisture. The oil should keep the critters away as well! Anything more will constitute a full blown restoration and the fun will UN COMMENCE! ws

[dumb person]

Not sure if you can apply paint and have it blend in with the old paint but if you wanted to remove surface rust i heard of someone using a cleaning product called CLR which removes calcium, lime & rust. i guess if you apply it with a cloth and rub it until the rust dissolves? Anyway i am not sure if that works. Try it on a spot that is not visible and see if you like the result i guess.
Linseed oil (boiled or unboiled oil?) might preserve the rest of the car but it will look oiled.

[Jack Innes]

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Originally Posted by dumb person

Not sure if you can apply paint and have it blend in with the old paint but if you wanted to remove surface rust i heard of someone using a cleaning product called CLR = Dilute phosphoric acid which is part of the tannic acid process - which removes calcium, lime & rust. i guess if you apply it with a cloth and rub it until the rust dissolves? Anyway i am not sure if that works. Try it on a spot that is not visible and see if you like the result i guess.
Linseed oil boiled orunboiled oil= Stays sticky for EVER!! might preserve the rest of the car but it will look oiled.

Be careful with the CLR product, it will burn your skin - rubber gloves & goggles are needed.

[Dick Webber]

I sold car paint for 25 years, but I love patina. I hope you don't paint.

[FL&WVMIKE]

32forddump .....................
The best thing that you can use on your old paint is GIBBS OIL. It's hard to find, retail and would, probably, have to be ordered. You can GOOGLE it.
It will bring out hidden paint, that is under the rust. It will darken the rusty areas too.
The antique motorcycle guys swear by it, to use on unrestored, barnfind motorcycles.
You can spray WD-40 on your car to get a prevue of what it would look like. The GIBBS OIL does an even better job and it will last longer.
MIKE

[32forddump]

Thank you all for your ideas, I will let you know what i do and will have pics when complete

[32forddump]

Any ideas on what paint I can use on running boards to match the old black paint? The running boards were all rust and needed to be sandblasted. I was thinking a flat black?

[yachtsmanbill]

Rustoleum Barbeque Black. If you mask off the RBs itll really look obvious so merely paint them in place and kinda blend the old and new. Dont get carried away and start painting the fenders as that will lead into a case of painters' remorse LOL~!!! Know when to say when!
Really wanna throw the judges for a loop? After its painted dust them lightly with some dark red primer and while still tacky throw a pinch of dusty ground and maybe even a pinch of table salt ONTO the paint.
Next day take a shop brush and dust them off. Some use will polish up the diamonds' points and the new patina will soon match perfectly.
I used to do a lot of H.O. trains and "weathering" is a big part of the realism. The first paragraph says it all! ws

http://rrmodelcraftsman.com/boomertr...weathering.php

Get some beater hub caps on those wheels too. I may have a few thatll look perfect for postage on your part.

[CharlieB]

Yeah, "painter's remorse". That's when you paint a bit then go a little more then a little more, ect. because you really don't like "patina". Been there.

[trulyvintage]

Good for You ...

Nothing better than keeping it original




Jim

[32forddump]

The T is going back together. I sandblasted undercarriage and underneath of fender, splashpan, and running boards.My plans are to make undercarriage and drivetrain to look new and to keep all tin looking old. Engine is all rebuilt and tranny is next. I replaced all bushings and bearings and rebuilt front and rear axle. Gas tank is clean and put patches on all sheetmetal tears and riveted them on. Pretty happy with results so far. Any way to make upholstery look old?I have repaired old springs and need to upholster them.

[32forddump]

I removed the rotisserie to day and installed front springs, and rear axle. Put car back on the ground so I can start working on the interior. A friend is letting me copy his 26 wood for a touring car. Wont be long now before I have it on all 4 wheels and start putting engine back in. Need to keep moving, spring is right around the corner. I am joining the local model t club and have to get it running for one of its events.

[bart78]

Home Depot sells a product called phosphoric etch and prep. It will not harm the pain. Mix with water and put it in a small spray bottle. Spray and let it sit over night. The rust if not to bad will wash off the next morning. I did a hood for a 37 that was pretty crusty. And it cleaned it up real good with very little work.

[32forddump]

Thats not the same thing as rustmort is it? I use rustmort, which is phosphoric acid, but that turns the metal white. It work well to stop rust before painting. I will check it out at home depot. Thanks.

[Jack Innes]

You are talking about "Metal Prep" which has been the standard final cleaner prior to priming used by body shops for years. There are many different brands & suppliers listed under http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&sugexp=l...w=1075&bih=588
This is phosphoric acid based & works well but leaves a vulnerable surface that needs to be painted or oiled fairly quickly.

Combined with tannic acid in the process I described earlier it will give a stable, black finish that, with a little oil on top, will look good without defeating the patina that is now in place.

[32forddump]

Sounds like a plan. I will try it in a hidden location first to make sure i like it. The hood has a lot of surface rust and i hope this will do the job.

[Shelby1962]

I'm doing the same with my '26. Full mechanical rebuild but leaving the exterior looking the way it is. Just not sure what I should apply to the body on this one.