Testing blocks in the home shop

[GB SISSON]

I finally got back to this. I got sidetracked with a couple of other projects and then some cabinet jobs with deadlines. Buddie still hasn't cut those block off plates. There is another shop here that has one, but leaning back to plywood. BUT I have had success with the magnet. I continued to research the subject, finding way more info on google instead of looking at youtube. Some things I found:
Seems like 1 ohm of resistance is what we want. There is a table with the resistance of different gauge of copper wire per 1000' of wire. I determined I needed about 120' of 18 gauge wire.
A core of permeable soft iron makes a far stronger magnet than using steel, such as a bolt. I bought a piece 1/2" x 6" on amazon. 99.9% pure iron.
The core is wrapped with a few layers of tape or paper before winding. My spool ends are 1/4" plywood.
I had bought 2 spools of the wire, one 100', other 200'. I weighed them both so I would know when I was at 120' on the longer spool.
I wrapped the completed windings with friction tape. Product of 'duck tape co.' found on amazon and very nice to work with, much stickier than the stuff I remember my dad using, but still has that good smell.
My drive system is a variable speed right angle screwdriver. Hose clamp placed around the trigger gave infinite speeds. Modified six point 9/16 socket (live center)pounded onto iron rod.
The 'legs' for the magnet became a problem. Rod measured .058 and no drill bit, so I filed down the threads in some 9/16 tall U bolt nuts and pounded them on half heartedly, so as not to harm the rod, but when grinding the 3/4" rod pieces flat on my 6x48 belt sander, one wasn't seated and ended up cocked and a bit loose. Really got me p-o'd, but I will fix that tomorrow with careful filing and then lock with set screws. Even at that, my new little magnet easily lifted this 59AB head. The photo was the hard part, holding it up with my right hand while feeling around for the 'shutter' button on my phone with my left was a beyotch.. OK, late here, I probably put the rest of you to sleep already.

[Mart]

Very impressive, especially the last pic.

[glennpm]

Great job!

[flatford8]

You never stop amazing me ‘Ol boy!........Mark

[GB SISSON]

A hearty 'thank-you' to a couple of guys from Downeast and one from 'Over there'. While waiting for the stove to warm up my wood shop, I snuck down and honed the threaded portion of those tall nuts so they would wiggle on fully and sit flush to my plywood spool ends. I then ground the feet back to flat. I'm thinking of welding some thick flat washers to the bottom of the 3/4" legs. As it is now, any tilt and it releases the load. Thinking this will give it a bigger footprint. After the legs are finalized with set screws I will true up the finished apparatus on the large belt sander. It needs to sit completely flat, AND It has to look right.

[GB SISSON]

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I spy a crack!

[B-O-B]

Following along on the magnet assy . I know I am too late, but a model T flywheel had some pretty good ones. Now the price on horseshoe magnets is going to go thru the roof

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by B-O-B

Following along on the magnet assy . I know I am too late, but a model T flywheel had some pretty good ones. Now the price on horseshoe magnets is going to go thru the roof

B-O-B , not sure what my post has to do with the price of magnets, but I'm now making a switch for mine and have uncovered a piece of countertop material known as 'richlite'. My piece is from a kitchen sink cutout and will make 2 of the head block off plates. It is about 1 1/4" thick and richlite is made from many layers of directionally stranded paper layed up with the strands in alternating layers, embedded in a waterproof resin, cured under heat and pressure. The material can be cut,drilled, tapped,routed etc with normal woodworking tools. and is very strong. An old head should make a good drill jig. Getting tired of waiting for the steel pieces and I like an adventure in tooling.

[Tim Ayers]

This post is great. I must have missed it, so you run electrical current through the magnet, correct? Did you just use alligator clips to an old battery? The switch you are talking about it is to turn the magnetic field on and off?

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

This post is great. I must have missed it, so you run electrical current through the magnet, correct? Did you just use alligator clips to an old battery? The switch you are talking about it is to turn the magnetic field on and off?

Yes on all points. Thinking the switch will be made from a piece of a hacksaw blade I can press down with my thumb to make contact. I use a 12V deep cycle battery I borrowed from my son's boat. He stores the boat here (I always have an extra battery for my tinkering.

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Yes on all points. Thinking the switch will be made from a piece of a hacksaw blade I can press down with my thumb to make contact. I use a 12V deep cycle battery I borrowed from my son's boat. He stores the boat here (I always have an extra battery for my tinkering.

Plus you keep it 100% charged for him at all times being the good guy that you are, correct? For the purpose of prolonging the battery life of course.

[B-O-B]

B-O-B , not sure what my post has to do with the price of magnets. GB you made a electric magnet & those ford horse shoe shaped magnets are good for that.

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Plus you keep it 100% charged for him at all times being the good guy that you are, correct? For the purpose of prolonging the battery life of course.

Fully charged, Duh!

And B O B, I had no idea that the T magnets were horseshoe shaped. My exhaustive research has shown me that U shaped magnets are way stronger. AND they come out for replacement. All that plus 59.95 for a recharged set of 16 magnets, well a 65.00 core charge too. Still cheap compared to me taking all that time away from my shop work. Kinda fun though!

[GB SISSON]

Here are some photos of today's work in the magnetism lab. I made a switch from a brass feeler gauge and used a cord from an old clothes iron. I am looking for ideas on how to introduce the powder onto the block. A salt shaker just dumps in one spot.
Then I got out my slab of richlite. It is very flat and looks like it should have a bunson burner mounted in it.... I did a test cut with my cordless skilsaw and it cut easily and made a nice smooth cut. I will do the actual cutting on my tablesaw. I found I had a 3 1/8" holesaw and for the valves a 1 3/4" seems right. I bought some drill bit$ at the hardware store and the 31/64" fits head holes with no wiggle. My plan is join the holesaw cuts with a jigsaw, then use my 'top bearing' router bit such that the bearing follows the steel fire ring in the head gasket and this should make the openings nice to look at. Planning to attempt all this tomorrow in the cabinet shop. Could go either way.....

[Scotty's 52 F3]

Your magnet looks like an antique you found. In Edison's lab. Definitely "period correct".

Looks like a great plan for the test plate. Looking forward to seeing you put it to work.

[cadillac512]

GB, our magnaflux set at work has a squeeze bulb with a screw-on lid that has small holes. You "puff" the powder onto the surface with it.



Terry

[GB SISSON]

Thanks Scotty and Terry. Progress is being made. I'll be back at it after lunch.

[GB SISSON]

Did a strength test on a 1" wide strip of this richlite stuff, then I ordered a bag of 50 stainless and epdm bonded washers today on ebay. Too bad Speedway is back ordered on their kits. This is a LOT of work.....

[cadillac512]

It may be a lot of work but you're doing a beautiful job. Well done!

[Tim Ayers]

Can you “borrow” one of your wife’s make-up brushes to dab the powder in place?