33 Block Teardown

[Tinker]

I picked up a 33 block a while back that looks like it would be a decent runner. It does have a .60 over bore already and the cylinders look decent.

So I have it on the stand today and have removed the oil pan to start checking things out. I have a few questions.

Is there a potential problem removing the mains. Will it effect or ruin babbit bearings? assuming it has not had inserts on mains.

Is there a special socket to fit the square end of the main bolt ends?

Thank you.

[Tinker]

Well I answered one of my questions by trial and error... a 3/8 socket extension. :]'

[PeteVS]

Craftsman used to make 8 point sockets. I've found them at swap meets but I'm pretty sure that they're no longer available through Sears.

[David J]

Probably not a good idea to bore it any further . If it still has the big diameter valve springs & guides I would change it over to 34 up type as the big ones are a pain to deal with . Removing the main caps won't hurt anything , I mark them myself . The oil pump-screen on these needs special attention but maybe you are going to use the later style ? Remember this motor does not have cam bearings so oil pressure may not be up to full song . Snap-On makes sockets for square nuts like talked about above .

Originally Posted by Tinker

I picked up a 33 block a while back that looks like it would be a decent runner. It does have a .60 over bore already and the cylinders look decent.

So I have it on the stand today and have removed the oil pan to start checking things out. I have a few questions.

Is there a potential problem removing the mains. Will it effect or ruin babbit bearings? assuming it has not had inserts on mains.

Is there a special socket to fit the square end of the main bolt ends?

Thank you.

[Tinker]

David, the .60 over was a bit concerning when I got this block. Wasn't thinking of sleaving it anyway. I'm just tinkering with it really, but that leads to rebuilds...

It's had two rebuilds, a 30 and the 60 that it has now. The cylinders look okayand the block is excellent. No visible cracks (mag may say different). Adjustable lifters and the valves look runnable. No oil pump... gone.

In haste I went ahead and just pulled the mains before you guys answered. :]' Front looks good, rear has a slight crack, and the center has what looks like a pour bubble. Crank is smooth. Well now what do I do with this block... hmmm

[David J]

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My summer driver 33 has a 33 block that was .060 & looked OK so I just slapped a set of NOS pistons in it . Works fine on it's second summer - even in the hot temps here this summer . The air bubble in the babbit is not real rare & is not unique to FORDS . The babbit rods in my John Deeres sometimes have it also . The cracked babbit one needs a close look . Most folks will tell you to use the newer type oil pump . If you decide you want to use the gennie type one lemme know . I'm assuming with adjustable lifters the big guides-springs have been deep-sixed already .They really are hateful to work with .

Originally Posted by Tinker

David, the .60 over was a bit concerning when I got this block. Wasn't thinking of sleaving it anyway. I'm just tinkering with it really, but that leads to rebuilds...

It's had two rebuilds, a 30 and the 60 that it has now. The cylinders look okayand the block is excellent. No visible cracks (mag may say different). Adjustable lifters and the valves look runnable. No oil pump... gone.

In haste I went ahead and just pulled the mains before you guys answered. :]' Front looks good, rear has a slight crack, and the center has what looks like a pour bubble. Crank is smooth. Well now what do I do with this block... hmmm

[DavidG]

David,

The big spring/valve guides unique to the '32s and '33s aren't that bad to work with. All of my restored '32 V-8 engines utilize them. When judging gets to the tear down stage like NASCAR post-race, I'll be in the cat bird seat.

[columbiA]

I wouldnt go over .060 on a 21 stud block,even tho some have been bored to 3 3/16" & got away with it.The bottom row of studs are in line with center of cyls & quite close to bores.They are prone to blow gaskets if bored more than .060"One of the reasons they went to 24 studs was to get a stud on each lower side & a little farther from the cyls.

[David J]

Good one David . Guess izza gonna lose those points !!!! Actually I have some NOS ones for special cases but I never seem to find that special case . I just like the simple 34 up out the top thing . PS all my 33's have the door lock cyl we talked about .

Originally Posted by DavidG

David,

The big spring/valve guides unique to the '32s and '33s aren't that bad to work with. All of my restored '32 V-8 engines utilize them. When judging gets to the tear down stage like NASCAR post-race, I'll be in the cat bird seat.

[Tinker]

Well I was told it was a 33 block. I'm thinking its definitely a pre-35 since not ventilated.

Here's some pictures.

[David J]

The clip on baffles in your valley are 34 . Blocks are the same 33-34 . It's add on stuff like big guides , clip on baffles in the valley etc that seperate them . Also it's been noted that at least a few really early 33's had 32 type blocks . Probably not a good idea to mention that one though as the nay-sayers will swarm you . Looks like your motor has a cast crank . Steel ones show up in 33-34 motors with some regularity . I have 5 like that .

[Tinker]

So your saying call it a 32 and put it on craiglist! Just kidding, might rebreath life in a liitle ot model a.

What is the deal with the cam. Can it be machined for bearings?

[DavidG]

You line-bore the block for cam bearings.

[out plowing]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Craftsman used to make 8 point sockets. I've found them at swap meets but I'm pretty sure that they're no longer available through Sears.

Craftsman still make the 8pt sockets, i found some on ebay. ebay number 380458331221 for example.