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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Frankfurt am Main in Germany
Posts: 671
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Engine of my 29 is in the car for about 50`000 mls and
as far as i remember the clutch is about same age. Last weekend i had a clutch failure while driving and managed to drive home 30mls without use of clutch (without any Stop) Investigation clarified, that one of the springs left its place as discribed in Tom Endys superbe article (attached) I can see that one spring is not in place. I can NOT see the spring. Anybody managed to unscrew the pressure-plate and get out the spring without dismounting engine (nor gearbox) ? Will take out engine in wintertime anyway but hope to "survive" the season (next two weekends) without to much work (as i do not have the time) Thank you for your ideas Last edited by Christoph; 09-13-2018 at 05:50 AM. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 11,521
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When the spring dislodges, it generally causes the clutch disc plate to either bend (most common) or come 'unriveted'. Either way, the disc needs to be replaced immediately as it can dislodge another spring, --or it could catch that spring on a spinning flywheel and eject it out of the cast iron clutch or flywheel housing like a projectile.
On a side-note, generally what causes a clutch disc to come apart is loads caused by a plate not being centered. This can be due to a worn pilot bearing or a worn main (input) shaft. You might want to check that when you have it apart. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Frankfurt am Main in Germany
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Thank you Brent Good suggestions and i will check/clarify once engine and gearbox are out. Last hours i tried to find the dislodged spring without disassambling the engine
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#4 |
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Location: Eastern Tennessee
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I would not remove the engine. I would remove the rear axle and the transmission. This can be accomplished with a decent sized set of jack stands. Just uncouple the torque tube from the back of the transmission and remove the U-Bolts from the crossmember that holds the rear spring in. With brake rods removed and wheels off, the rear end can be removed on a floor jack. Then unbolt the transmission and lower it from the top down.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
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I've seen some that coat the disc springs with silicone rubber, to keep them in place.
Bill Sticky
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
I hadn't thought of silicone but it sounds like it could work. Bill, do you know if it was successful?
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#7 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: St Charles , Missouri
Posts: 1,998
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Yes, as Brent says remove the rear axle and then trans. I have made pilots for installing the trans and bell housing. It keeps the torque and stress off the clutch disc and allows for an easy entry to the pilot bearing. use some about 3 inches in length and cut the heads off and taper the end so it makes for the bell housing to go on the ends easier. place one at about 9 or clock and the other about 3 and it will make install easier. Removal of the rear and trans is much quicker and less evasive to the car, plus you have to separate at the engine anyway. Larry Shepard |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Frankfurt am Main in Germany
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Thank you for your kind help.
In common i would take out the rear too, to work at the clutch.... What i didnt tell , is, that i decided to switch engines too. Actual engine (50.000mls ) is still running strong, but has some minor probs i will try to figure out about ( Im old enough and there is no need to wait for the "BIG BANG" which turns a nice old engine in some useless junk) God point is that i got a (new) engine sitting in the garage already ![]() Thank you again Chris Last edited by Christoph; 09-14-2018 at 01:41 AM. |
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#10 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Good info in Toms article as usual... I would add that in the 60s I had several of the clutch plates with no springs rebuilt thinking to avoid springs coming loose. After some time I heard a clunking noise when shifting forward to reverse. Problem was that rebuilder did not replace the 6 rivets with over sized ones that hold the center hub to disk. The rivets had worn the holes in plate to an oblong shape. The rivets were tight but plate would move inside the oblong holes! I recommend the new disks with spring retainers. |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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THanks, Bill. It looks like I will be dragging the silicone gun out soon!! Sounds like a good solution.
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