Distributer bushes

[CASEYNZ]

Hi guys,
I am installing new bushes and shafts in my distributer (29 model a) and the shaft is VERY tight in the bushes...any thoughts?

[Will N]

Ream the bushings. The suppliers sell a tool for that.

[CASEYNZ]

Thanks Will

[Rowdy]

I was fortuate to stumble onto the KRW reamer for the distributor. I have used it once and it needs sharpening. The repop shafts are .002 smaller than original, so hopefully after sharpening it will be near perfect. Be sure to oil the reamer and clean out any shavings when you are done. Rod

[Bruce Lancaster]

Before you spring for the reamer, look at the bushings. Some go in with proper overall diameter but are made stiff by a slight ridge from the driving in process, visible because it will now be very shiny. If that is the case, a quick pass with a triangular or babbitt scraper will fixitrightup.

[Brentwood Bob]

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make a flapper and use some emory?
Or assemble and burnish by working the shaft in the newly bushed housing by hand.
Old time approach?
Bob

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I know of a dist drive shaft that broke after dist bushings were fitted TOO TIGHT! After the car was driven for a long run, the dist shaft, itself, SEIZED! After running a proper reamer through the bushings, it was O.K.
Bill W.

[ursus]

I use an old 1/2 inch drill bit and pull it slowly through the bushings with the drill running in reverse. This way it doesn't bite into or cut the bushings but align burnishes them. If it is really tight, I will use light oil with a dusting of TimeSaver compound.

[Brentwood Bob]

Based on bill's comment in #7 I would now only use the reamer.
Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

I polish the new shaft by spinning it in my lathe and using 400 or finer crocus cloth. When it shines I put the lathe on a slow speed, then oil the shaft and slip the distributor housing onto the shaft. I then hold the housing while the shaft spins and burnishes the shaft and bushings. (best to wear leather gloves just in case) I slide the housing back and forth about an inch during this operation. After a couple minutes the shaft is turning freely in the housing. I then remove the housing and wipe the shaft clean and repolish it to a mirror finish. I use a small bottle brush to clean out the housing, then reoil the shaft and install it. Now the shaft has a perfect fit without using a hone.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I polish the new shaft by spinning it in my lathe and using 400 or finer crocus cloth. When it shines I put the lathe on a slow speed, then oil the shaft and slip the distributor housing onto the shaft. I then hold the housing while the shaft spins and burnishes the shaft and bushings. (best to wear leather gloves just in case) I slide the housing back and forth about an inch during this operation. After a couple minutes the shaft is turning freely in the housing. I then remove the housing and wipe the shaft clean and repolish it to a mirror finish. I use a small bottle brush to clean out the housing, then reoil the shaft and install it. Now the shaft has a perfect fit without using a hone.

Yo' Brother Tom,
Are the Re-Pro bushings the OILIGHT type, that you can "squeeze" oil into the pores?
Bill W.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

The problem with using a reamer is most reamers flutes are short in length. In other words, when the rebuilder resizes the bushing, they do one bushing at a time at each end. The issue with this is the bushing can be of the correct size yet be reamed in two different angle resulting in a binding shaft. This is the ultimate reason why pin fitting machines are the best to use in this task.

Ironically, I am needing to replace my .495" honing mandrel and was looking for one that is long enough to do the two bushing simultaneously on an oil pump (which uses the same size mandrel as the distributor). Unfortunately, it does not appear that Sunnen makes anything longer than a SL mandrel in .495 size.

[MrBruce]

Brent is correct. I would never ream the "Clevite Graphite" bushings. I would bring ten cores to my dad and let him fit them on a Sunnen Pin hone, what a finish and each shaft is correct for that particular distributor. Clevite bushings were the OEM bushing for all the Model A's and are not as easily found in todays market. I picked up a bunch before leaving Clevite

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Yo' Brother Tom,
Are the Re-Pro bushings the OILIGHT type, that you can "squeeze" oil into the pores?
Bill W.

Bill, I haven't installed any for about 5 years, so I don't recall which style, but I was thinking they were the the dimpled style. I'll order some more soon and see what I get.

[Willie Krash]

I might get a slap on this but.....If the bushings are not Clevite you can use your old shaft as a reamer. Score the shaft ( I use a lathe bit) in the direction of the shaft. The sharp line will ream, almost burnish the bushing.
Personally I use Tom's method but if it's really tight ream it, if its an oil-lite bushing.
I have more reamers than I could ever use but often use the method described.

BTW what I call a Clevite is a bushing that when viewed on the inside has a diamond pattern, for those that aren't around bushings much. I agree with Bill they cannot be too tight.
Bad news..

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Willie, I'm glad you brought up the scored shaft idea. Some DON'T have an array of special tools. For Po' Folks, when chasing/cleaning threads, just take a old bolt & with a cut off wheel, or just a hacksaw, cut 3 grooves ACROSS the threads & you have a perfect thread chaser! You can even do spark plug threads the same way, by grooving an old spark plug. A set of external, nut type thread chasers are QUITE CHEEP!
Even TODAY, lots of Model A owners are POOR FOLKS, on a TIGHT budget!
Bill W.

[Tom Wesenberg]

"Even TODAY, lots of Model A owners are POOR FOLKS, on a TIGHT budget!
Bill W."

I thought my Model A was squeaking, but it's me that's so tight I sqeak.

[Bob C]

Mike, do you still use the 4436 bushing? I got some on
epay but haven't tried them yet.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-0-5-...3dc64d&vxp=mtr

Bob

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

"Even TODAY, lots of Model A owners are POOR FOLKS, on a TIGHT budget!
Bill W."

I thought my Model A was squeaking, but it's me that's so tight I sqeak.

Tight Tom,
If you give us some better info/symptoms/etc, "MAYBE" we can DIAGNOSE/REPAIR your SQUEEKS. What YEAR & MODEL are you? Duz any uf yo' replaced parts have GREASE JURKS?
HA-HA Bill W.

[Willie Krash]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Willie, I'm glad you brought up the scored shaft idea. Some DON'T have an array of special tools. For Po' Folks, when chasing/cleaning threads, just take a old bolt & with a cut off wheel, or just a hacksaw, cut 3 grooves ACROSS the threads & you have a perfect thread chaser! You can even do spark plug threads the same way, by grooving an old spark plug. A set of external, nut type thread chasers are QUITE CHEEP!
Even TODAY, lots of Model A owners are POOR FOLKS, on a TIGHT budget!
Bill W.

Thanks Bill. I have a T too. I try to envision what these cars are; that is to say do not over complicate your life. Think like a rancher or farmer in Montana, fifty miles from town and the snow is coming and I gotta make it run.
Those guys didn't have fancy tools either.


Bob C which Mike?

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by Willie Krash

Thanks Bill. I have a T too. I try to envision what these cars are; that is to say do not over complicate your life. Think like a rancher or farmer in Montana, fifty miles from town and the snow is coming and I gotta make it run.
Those guys didn't have fancy tools either.


Bob C which Mike?

Mike Stitt
Here is the post I was referring to https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...highlight=4436

Bob