The Ford Barn

rich b · 10-09-2022, 10:14 PM

Unbolt the spring, unhook the torque tube and brake rods, remove the rear wheels, lower the jack, and roll the rear out from underneath on the jack. Don't forget to put a cardboard box or something in place to catch the torque tube when it drops out.

Patrick L. · 10-10-2022, 05:27 AM

Those stands look like they stretched pretty far, I'd recommend more blocking under them.

Fhane · 10-10-2022, 07:13 AM

Patrick L. Hit the nail on the head. The more you extend the jack stand the more unstable it becomes. Bigger jack stands or more cribbing. Be safe.

goodcar · 10-11-2022, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shew01

It looks like I’m going to need to remove the rear end in the near future to take a look at the universal joint.

It’s easy enough to get the front wheels on jack stands, but I’ve never removed the rear end before. What is the best way to jack up the rear end of the car (using the frame) so that can put the rear of the car on jack stands in preparation for removing the rear end? The muffler looks like it’s in the way on the passenger side.

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I know it is probably just my phobia but jackstands scare the heck out of me. Much more work but I use cement blocks and 2x6 pieces.

alexiskai · 10-11-2022, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodcar

I know it is probably just my phobia but jackstands scare the heck out of me. Much more work but I use cement blocks and 2x6 pieces.

You use cement blocks... like, cinder blocks?

Patrick L. · 10-11-2022, 10:41 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by alexiskai

You use cement blocks... like, cinder blocks?

Cinder blocks ? Haven't seen them since I was a pup.

alexiskai · 10-11-2022, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Cinder blocks ? Haven't seen them since I was a pup.

Sorry, "concrete masonry units."

nkaminar · 10-11-2022, 07:43 PM

The concrete blocks, called cinder blocks when made from coal cinders, are strong enough if used with the holes (cavities) vertical. The flat sections will break easily if you put a load on them, i.e. with the holes horizontal. goodcar is correct to put a 2X6 on top of the blocks to spread the load out. A better stand is a set of timbers (or boards) set cross wise, with the first two timbers running east-west and the next two running north-south and the pattern repeated. A secure stack can be built and tapered narrower as the stack gets taller. The bottom can be quite wide. I made several of these and screwed the timbers together for a permanent stand that could be taken apart later if desired. A jack stand can be placed on top of this structure.

larrys40 · 10-11-2022, 08:10 PM

As has been said make sure the stands are on the outboard side of the radius rods and leave a little room between the radius rods and the jack stand. You might want a 2nd stand forward even if not touching for insurance.

Larry

shew01 · 10-11-2022, 08:42 PM

It turns out you need to allow extra clearance for the tailpipe—the car will shift a bit if you are using a floor jack on rollers. The jack stand can mark the tailpipe with a crimp of you aren’t careful. I saw a mark on my tailpipe before I started, and I wondered how it got there. Now I know. ;-)

Spinning the jack stand around 180 degrees gave me the clearance I needed.

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goodcar · 10-11-2022, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexiskai

You use cement blocks... like, cinder blocks?

Yup. Cement blocks, cinder blocks, concrete blocks.

jack backer · 10-12-2022, 08:52 AM

Having a skyhook is a wonderful thing..There’s a well know video maker who supports an A on cinder blocks while installing a Mitchell .. resist the temptation. If you have any question about your clutch nows the time to do it. Spreading and removing rear spring for bushings and cleaning is way easier when out too.

jack backer · 10-12-2022, 08:59 AM

I lost a fellow mechanic and close friend, crushed his head when a cinder block failed holding up an Impala..

john in illinois · 10-12-2022, 04:45 PM

These are the stands I use when under th car. This is a T but same stands on A frame.
No cinder concrete blocks are safe.

John

10-09-2022, 10:14 PM	#21
rich b Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 1,827	Re: How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End Unbolt the spring, unhook the torque tube and brake rods, remove the rear wheels, lower the jack, and roll the rear out from underneath on the jack. Don't forget to put a cardboard box or something in place to catch the torque tube when it drops out.

10-10-2022, 05:27 AM	#22
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End Those stands look like they stretched pretty far, I'd recommend more blocking under them.

10-10-2022, 07:13 AM	#23
Fhane Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stuart Florida Posts: 149	Re: How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End Patrick L. Hit the nail on the head. The more you extend the jack stand the more unstable it becomes. Bigger jack stands or more cribbing. Be safe.

10-11-2022, 07:43 PM	#28
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,903	Re: How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End The concrete blocks, called cinder blocks when made from coal cinders, are strong enough if used with the holes (cavities) vertical. The flat sections will break easily if you put a load on them, i.e. with the holes horizontal. goodcar is correct to put a 2X6 on top of the blocks to spread the load out. A better stand is a set of timbers (or boards) set cross wise, with the first two timbers running east-west and the next two running north-south and the pattern repeated. A secure stack can be built and tapered narrower as the stack gets taller. The bottom can be quite wide. I made several of these and screwed the timbers together for a permanent stand that could be taken apart later if desired. A jack stand can be placed on top of this structure. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

10-11-2022, 08:10 PM	#29
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 1,998	Re: How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End As has been said make sure the stands are on the outboard side of the radius rods and leave a little room between the radius rods and the jack stand. You might want a 2nd stand forward even if not touching for insurance. Larry

10-11-2022, 08:42 PM	#30
shew01 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Roanoke, VA USA Posts: 1,908	How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End It turns out you need to allow extra clearance for the tailpipe—the car will shift a bit if you are using a floor jack on rollers. The jack stand can mark the tailpipe with a crimp of you aren’t careful. I saw a mark on my tailpipe before I started, and I wondered how it got there. Now I know. ;-) Spinning the jack stand around 180 degrees gave me the clearance I needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10-12-2022, 08:59 AM	#33
jack backer BANNED Join Date: Mar 2022 Location: Chenango Bridge NY Posts: 433	Re: How to Get Model A onto Jack Stands in Preparation for Removing Rear End I lost a fellow mechanic and close friend, crushed his head when a cinder block failed holding up an Impala..