1926 radiator install

[visionary]

Hey guys, i've got my motor back from snyders and i've had it running for just a couple of minutes as the radiator isn't installed just yet, and this is what i need a little help with. when i removed the radiator eatch side had one spring on the underside of the frame and none on the top side of the frame, when i purchased a new mount kit it came with two studs 4 springs and 2 inner and 2 outer cup washers.

Now here's where my dillema comes into play the mounting studs measure 21 7/8 from stud to stud as does the center to center distance of the radiator apron. but the mounting holes in the radiator itself only come in at 21 1/4 so needless to say the mounting studs are favoring the outer edges of the radiator mount holes and not centered. so there's no way i could use the inner cup washer or top spring, or are these even used on a 26?

Looking foreward to your help.

Thanks
Scott

[redmodelt]

Yes the top springs and cups were used in 1927. Sounds like the front cross member is bent down at the ends. If the fenders are off would be easy. Put a length of chain around the side rails at the very front put a jack between the chain and front cross member at the center and jack the chain up pulling the side rails into place plus a little more. You might what to bridge over the front motor mount.

[visionary]

If someone could measure thier 26 or 27 then i'd know for sure, but like i mentioned the apron holes line up perfectly dead center with the studs. i believe the radiator may have been replaced and i was wondering if it may be the wrong year radiator? or the mount holes incorectly placed.
Hopefully the frame isn't bent.

Thanks
Scott

[redmodelt]

The center to center of the radiator mounting holes was the same from 1908 to 1927 as were the mounting holes for the radiator. My 21 and extra radiator are about 21 3/8 to 1/2 inches. Your radiator sounds right but the apron holes my be spread apart. I would not use the apron to go by.

[visionary]

Thanks for the info guys, after slowing down and taking a closer look i think i've figured out what's going on here. the studs are not standing straight up, their actually kicked outward toward the fenders, and i cant move them inward. i know this sounds stupid but the bolt head on the inner portion of the frame that bolts the fender support to the frame is forcing the radiator mount stud out of alignment.

so this promps me to ask another question.... should the fender supports be bolted on, or were they originaly riveted on? the only thing i could think of is that a rivet head would be more flush to the frame and allow enough clearance for the radiator stud and threaded plate.

It's late now but i'll try to get some pictures up tommoro

Thanks
Scott

[Steve Jelf]

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The fender brackets are bolted on. Heads inside the frame, nuts outside. Two holes on the side, one on the bottom. The radiator stud is between the two heads of the side bolts. It's a tight fit, but it does fit.

[visionary]

Steve, thanks for the pictures. The fender supports on my 26 use only one bolt and its aligned dead center with the radiator mount stud. doesn't seem right but looks factory.

Scott

[visionary]

Here's a picture of the bolt head that i'm talking about, it's placement makes the lower spring useless as the threaded plate that the stud goes into becomes traped under the bolt head holding the fender support to the frame. I must be doing something wrong.

Scott

[yachtsmanbill]

Hohohoho!!! You found a Model T nemesis!! You have to unscrew the plate and hold it against the upper rail and screw the stud into that and the cotter pin it! Dont be surprised if you have to grind some edges on the plate as well. I extended the front frame rail on mine with bolts and encountered the identical situation!! ws

[visionary]

Thanks Bill, at least now i know what i need to do.

Scott