1930 AA w/ Gleaner motor

I recently purchased a 1930AA and noticed it has a "G"##### serial number motor in it, complete with a governor. I understand they were built for the Gleaner A's. Was wondering if there were any differences from a normal Model A engine (aside from the governor). Tried to pull the distributor out, got everthing off with exception of what appears to be a one piece distributor shaft, it will not budge!! Took the cam and cam nut off and housing just sliped up and off, just the shaft sticking up. Also are the wireless lower plates any good? Thanks from the Kansas Outback.



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Leon, thanks for the tip on the diamond block. Don't worry, much to my wife's dismay I don't throw anything away. THe wireless plate is a new plate that I purchased to overhaul the distributor with. Also any ideas on where I can get door latches, they are the type with an outside handle and the "inside" handle sticks up thru the top of the door. I have new striker plates but can't find the latches.

Thanks again, Bill

By the way, I grew up in Del City and went to OSU, so is good to here from an OKIE.



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Bill, I like the wireless lower plate. But there are two different ones available. I like the one that has a bent donut shaped brass spring plate attached to the steel bottom plate. There is a brass acorn nut that screws onto the points mounting stud on the bottom of the top plate. The other variety of wireless lower plate uses a flat donut brass plate mounted on the lower steel plate and there is a brass wiper that attaches to the points mounting stud. The wiper seems to be a bit too fragile to suit me. I prefer the first type, but either is an improvement over the original lower plate with the wire. I am usually more of a purist about restoring Model A's, but this is one change that is a big improvement and will not be detected without disassembly.



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Diamonds are based on the late '31 production motor and have heavier rear main reinforcements. They are (or may be--accounts vary) heavier than regular blocks by several pounds, so may have extra metal elsewhere. The diamond mark is just behind the flange where the front cover bolts on near top of passenger side of block. At bottom edge of block, also right front, is a cast in date mark. The diamond is only about 1/2" long and is faint enough to be obscured by heavy paint. I was searching the swap meets for a diamond B motor last year. One evening my flashlight slipped as I was tinkering with the fuel pump and the angled beam suddenly brought out the nearly painted over date stamp--my '32 pickup already contained a good running diamond!

Diamond heads also have a date casting that doesn't exist on production blocks, and allegedly have slightly smaller chambers than standard. I haven't had an opportunity to check this.

There is lots of info on diamond blocks in the Secrets of Speed journal, much of it contradictory...

The bottom line is that no one really seems to know a lot about these. I believe that the advantages are at best minimal, but they are a cool and esoteric distinction for an old banger. Bruce



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CHeck to see if it has a small diamond embossed on block in front of the valve cover

if it is there it is called a Diamond block and is better made than the original Model A engines.........i have a diamond block and an original engine.......what are describing as wireless lower plates? don't throw ANYTHING away off of any antique vehicle(somebody may need it somewhere for a pattern)......Leon just south of you in Oklahoma....p.s. soak the one piece shaft with Liquid Wrench or Kroil and let it soak a few days away from the elements.



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<ul>[*]L.E.D. Model A TV[/list]

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Leon, thanks for the tip on the diamond block. Don't worry, much to my wife's dismay I don't throw anything away. THe wireless plate is a new plate that I purchased to overhaul the distributor with. Also any ideas on where I can get door latches, they are the type with an outside handle and the "inside" handle sticks up thru the top of the door. I have new striker plates but can't find the latches.

Thanks again, Bill

By the way, I grew up in Del City and went to OSU, so is good to here from an OKIE.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Bill, I like the wireless lower plate. But there are two different ones available. I like the one that has a bent donut shaped brass spring plate attached to the steel bottom plate. There is a brass acorn nut that screws onto the points mounting stud on the bottom of the top plate. The other variety of wireless lower plate uses a flat donut brass plate mounted on the lower steel plate and there is a brass wiper that attaches to the points mounting stud. The wiper seems to be a bit too fragile to suit me. I prefer the first type, but either is an improvement over the original lower plate with the wire. I am usually more of a purist about restoring Model A's, but this is one change that is a big improvement and will not be detected without disassembly.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Diamonds are based on the late '31 production motor and have heavier rear main reinforcements. They are (or may be--accounts vary) heavier than regular blocks by several pounds, so may have extra metal elsewhere. The diamond mark is just behind the flange where the front cover bolts on near top of passenger side of block. At bottom edge of block, also right front, is a cast in date mark. The diamond is only about 1/2" long and is faint enough to be obscured by heavy paint. I was searching the swap meets for a diamond B motor last year. One evening my flashlight slipped as I was tinkering with the fuel pump and the angled beam suddenly brought out the nearly painted over date stamp--my '32 pickup already contained a good running diamond!

Diamond heads also have a date casting that doesn't exist on production blocks, and allegedly have slightly smaller chambers than standard. I haven't had an opportunity to check this.

There is lots of info on diamond blocks in the Secrets of Speed journal, much of it contradictory...

The bottom line is that no one really seems to know a lot about these. I believe that the advantages are at best minimal, but they are a cool and esoteric distinction for an old banger. Bruce



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

CHeck to see if it has a small diamond embossed on block in front of the valve cover

if it is there it is called a Diamond block and is better made than the original Model A engines.........i have a diamond block and an original engine.......what are describing as wireless lower plates? don't throw ANYTHING away off of any antique vehicle(somebody may need it somewhere for a pattern)......Leon just south of you in Oklahoma....p.s. soak the one piece shaft with Liquid Wrench or Kroil and let it soak a few days away from the elements.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">
<ul>[*]L.E.D. Model A TV[/list]

Leon, thanks for the tip on the diamond block. Don't worry, much to my wife's dismay I don't throw anything away. THe wireless plate is a new plate that I purchased to overhaul the distributor with. Also any ideas on where I can get door latches, they are the type with an outside handle and the "inside" handle sticks up thru the top of the door. I have new striker plates but can't find the latches.

Thanks again, Bill

By the way, I grew up in Del City and went to OSU, so is good to here from an OKIE.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Bill, I like the wireless lower plate. But there are two different ones available. I like the one that has a bent donut shaped brass spring plate attached to the steel bottom plate. There is a brass acorn nut that screws onto the points mounting stud on the bottom of the top plate. The other variety of wireless lower plate uses a flat donut brass plate mounted on the lower steel plate and there is a brass wiper that attaches to the points mounting stud. The wiper seems to be a bit too fragile to suit me. I prefer the first type, but either is an improvement over the original lower plate with the wire. I am usually more of a purist about restoring Model A's, but this is one change that is a big improvement and will not be detected without disassembly.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Diamonds are based on the late '31 production motor and have heavier rear main reinforcements. They are (or may be--accounts vary) heavier than regular blocks by several pounds, so may have extra metal elsewhere. The diamond mark is just behind the flange where the front cover bolts on near top of passenger side of block. At bottom edge of block, also right front, is a cast in date mark. The diamond is only about 1/2" long and is faint enough to be obscured by heavy paint. I was searching the swap meets for a diamond B motor last year. One evening my flashlight slipped as I was tinkering with the fuel pump and the angled beam suddenly brought out the nearly painted over date stamp--my '32 pickup already contained a good running diamond!

Diamond heads also have a date casting that doesn't exist on production blocks, and allegedly have slightly smaller chambers than standard. I haven't had an opportunity to check this.

There is lots of info on diamond blocks in the Secrets of Speed journal, much of it contradictory...

The bottom line is that no one really seems to know a lot about these. I believe that the advantages are at best minimal, but they are a cool and esoteric distinction for an old banger. Bruce



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

CHeck to see if it has a small diamond embossed on block in front of the valve cover

if it is there it is called a Diamond block and is better made than the original Model A engines.........i have a diamond block and an original engine.......what are describing as wireless lower plates? don't throw ANYTHING away off of any antique vehicle(somebody may need it somewhere for a pattern)......Leon just south of you in Oklahoma....p.s. soak the one piece shaft with Liquid Wrench or Kroil and let it soak a few days away from the elements.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">
<ul>[*]L.E.D. Model A TV[/list]

Leon, thanks for the tip on the diamond block. Don't worry, much to my wife's dismay I don't throw anything away. THe wireless plate is a new plate that I purchased to overhaul the distributor with. Also any ideas on where I can get door latches, they are the type with an outside handle and the "inside" handle sticks up thru the top of the door. I have new striker plates but can't find the latches.

Thanks again, Bill

By the way, I grew up in Del City and went to OSU, so is good to here from an OKIE.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Bill, I like the wireless lower plate. But there are two different ones available. I like the one that has a bent donut shaped brass spring plate attached to the steel bottom plate. There is a brass acorn nut that screws onto the points mounting stud on the bottom of the top plate. The other variety of wireless lower plate uses a flat donut brass plate mounted on the lower steel plate and there is a brass wiper that attaches to the points mounting stud. The wiper seems to be a bit too fragile to suit me. I prefer the first type, but either is an improvement over the original lower plate with the wire. I am usually more of a purist about restoring Model A's, but this is one change that is a big improvement and will not be detected without disassembly.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Diamonds are based on the late '31 production motor and have heavier rear main reinforcements. They are (or may be--accounts vary) heavier than regular blocks by several pounds, so may have extra metal elsewhere. The diamond mark is just behind the flange where the front cover bolts on near top of passenger side of block. At bottom edge of block, also right front, is a cast in date mark. The diamond is only about 1/2" long and is faint enough to be obscured by heavy paint. I was searching the swap meets for a diamond B motor last year. One evening my flashlight slipped as I was tinkering with the fuel pump and the angled beam suddenly brought out the nearly painted over date stamp--my '32 pickup already contained a good running diamond!

Diamond heads also have a date casting that doesn't exist on production blocks, and allegedly have slightly smaller chambers than standard. I haven't had an opportunity to check this.

There is lots of info on diamond blocks in the Secrets of Speed journal, much of it contradictory...

The bottom line is that no one really seems to know a lot about these. I believe that the advantages are at best minimal, but they are a cool and esoteric distinction for an old banger. Bruce



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

CHeck to see if it has a small diamond embossed on block in front of the valve cover

if it is there it is called a Diamond block and is better made than the original Model A engines.........i have a diamond block and an original engine.......what are describing as wireless lower plates? don't throw ANYTHING away off of any antique vehicle(somebody may need it somewhere for a pattern)......Leon just south of you in Oklahoma....p.s. soak the one piece shaft with Liquid Wrench or Kroil and let it soak a few days away from the elements.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">
<ul>[*]L.E.D. Model A TV[/list]

Leon, thanks for the tip on the diamond block. Don't worry, much to my wife's dismay I don't throw anything away. THe wireless plate is a new plate that I purchased to overhaul the distributor with. Also any ideas on where I can get door latches, they are the type with an outside handle and the "inside" handle sticks up thru the top of the door. I have new striker plates but can't find the latches.

Thanks again, Bill

By the way, I grew up in Del City and went to OSU, so is good to here from an OKIE.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Bill, I like the wireless lower plate. But there are two different ones available. I like the one that has a bent donut shaped brass spring plate attached to the steel bottom plate. There is a brass acorn nut that screws onto the points mounting stud on the bottom of the top plate. The other variety of wireless lower plate uses a flat donut brass plate mounted on the lower steel plate and there is a brass wiper that attaches to the points mounting stud. The wiper seems to be a bit too fragile to suit me. I prefer the first type, but either is an improvement over the original lower plate with the wire. I am usually more of a purist about restoring Model A's, but this is one change that is a big improvement and will not be detected without disassembly.



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">

Diamonds are based on the late '31 production motor and have heavier rear main reinforcements. They are (or may be--accounts vary) heavier than regular blocks by several pounds, so may have extra metal elsewhere. The diamond mark is just behind the flange where the front cover bolts on near top of passenger side of block. At bottom edge of block, also right front, is a cast in date mark. The diamond is only about 1/2" long and is faint enough to be obscured by heavy paint. I was searching the swap meets for a diamond B motor last year. One evening my flashlight slipped as I was tinkering with the fuel pump and the angled beam suddenly brought out the nearly painted over date stamp--my '32 pickup already contained a good running diamond!

Diamond heads also have a date casting that doesn't exist on production blocks, and allegedly have slightly smaller chambers than standard. I haven't had an opportunity to check this.

There is lots of info on diamond blocks in the Secrets of Speed journal, much of it contradictory...

The bottom line is that no one really seems to know a lot about these. I believe that the advantages are at best minimal, but they are a cool and esoteric distinction for an old banger. Bruce



<table><tr><td><font face="arial">