Newbie/30 Won't start?? Help Please

[Banky]

Hi all. I've been restoring my 30 model a tudor, my first model A.

Modern points & 6V alternator are about the only upgrades. I timed it per Les Andrews book and video. (test light on points, light comes on with advance lever pulled down 2-3 notches.)

Banger tuns over, gas is dripping from carb, and I get a very loud back fire out of the carb after trying to start it for a while???

Could the backfire mean my timing is way off? I am getting spark at the plug wire, I texted that.

Choke/air fuel mixture is turned clockwise the whole way, then turned counter 1/4 turn.

Car ran before I did the upgrades above. (I know, shouldn't have messed with it.)

Help, any thoughts????
Banky

[Gary WA]

Could be 180 deg out. Pull the pin and check timing again, pull No1 spark plug one in the front of eng with flashlight see if piston is at the top of block and check with pin . Keep us posted! The backfire is from excess fuel in exhaust?

[hardtimes]

Banky,
If 'car ran before'....points directly to points! Check/recheck your work, especially properly grounded ....BUT NOT TOOO GROUNDED: as in if you have a armored cable type 'screwed in' tooo far into dizzy as to ground the system wrongly. Fix is to unscrew is lightly...then after all other checks starter up.

[Colorado Greg]

Make sure the spark advance is all the way up (retarded) before cranking, I'd even open up the gav more than 1/4 for starting, 1/2 turn or so here then back to 1/8 - 1/4 after running. Double check the point gap to ensure it hasn't changed. If you adjust the point gap you will need to re-time the engine. It possible you are 180 out, follow instructions above to check.

I'm not too sure I would call the modern points and alternator an upgrade.

[Banky]

Hardtimes: forgive my lack of lingo, but when you say "armored cable type 'screwed in' tooo far into dizzy" are you referring to the ignition cable into the distributor?

I have and original style, (larger armored cable) but it's not a pop out. Just made to look like one. I screwed it into the distributor until it was pretty snug. Was that correct? Is it in to far??

I will recheck the timing as well, and check the No1 piston.

Keep'em coming, thanks!

[hardtimes]

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Originally Posted by Banky

Hardtimes: forgive my lack of lingo, but when you say "armored cable type 'screwed in' tooo far into dizzy" are you referring to the ignition cable into the distributor?

I have and original style, (larger armored cable) but it's not a pop out. Just made to look like one. I screwed it into the distributor until it was pretty snug. Was that correct? Is it in to far??

I will recheck the timing as well, and check the No1 piston.

Keep'em coming, thanks!

Yes...that's what I mean! Armored original OR fake/looker armored...screwed in too far can/will short out system..just gently screw it in and give it a go.

[30modelA]

i may have to agree 180 out, pull no one plug insert long skinny screwdriver into hole and turn engine by hand til screwdriver is all the way up, then check dist.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Start by having the spark lever full up, then put your thumb on #1 spark plug hole and have soemone handcrank until you feel compression. Then insert the timing pin and handcrank slowly until the pin drops into the dimple. #1 piston should now be on TDC firing. The rotor should be pointing to the right headlight and the points just ready to open. Remember, the rotor turns CCW.

[Rusty Homestead Fl]

Originally Posted by 30modelA

i may have to agree 180 out, pull no one plug insert long skinny screwdriver into hole and turn engine by hand til screwdriver is all the way up, then check dist.

Take care if you do this. The plug hole is more above the valves than the piston. You don't want to get the screwdriver wedged in the cylinder.

[Banky]

Got it started!!!

I had my roder set 180 degrees out! I miss read Les's directions.

THANKS ALL!!!!

[Gary WA]

Thanks for the update!Glad we could help!! Now drive it and enjoy!!