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03-01-2014, 09:26 PM | #1 |
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Turlock machine
Can anyone tell me about Turlock machine
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03-01-2014, 10:47 PM | #2 |
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Re: Turlock machine
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03-01-2014, 10:51 PM | #3 |
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Re: Turlock machine
That's a first for me. Please bring me up to speed on this concept.
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03-01-2014, 11:04 PM | #4 |
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Re: Turlock machine
I remember a certain "Miracle engine" guy, (Flanagan?) that used to butcher, er, I mean 'improve' blocks like this. You get the best of all worlds:
1) The cam/crank gear spacing gets pinched too tight. 2) The pistons, already higher after decking, will now be alarmingly high. 3) Your transmission will now work automatically. With the lost alignment of the crank center to the tranny, the thing will pop out of gear all by itself! About the oil grooves- those appear to be Rich's A.E.R. inserts, not poured babbitt. |
03-01-2014, 11:53 PM | #5 |
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Re: Turlock machine
Okay........I thought about this since it was first posted, the first thing out
of my mouth is not printable. I have modified everything on engines, and I mean everything! On any engine, were that crank lays is ground zero,...you can change everything else you can think of, except the "crankshaft center line", period. The only thing I could think of, and I can't see the front and center main good enough,...if he milled a "register" for some kind of different rear main cap. So I looked at the photo again,...the bearing shell for the rear main "looks" positive too the milled surface. Oil grooves,......not so good for "gravity feed",...okay for pressure... |
03-02-2014, 12:02 AM | #6 |
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Location: Turlock, CA
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Re: Turlock machine
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03-02-2014, 12:10 AM | #7 |
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Re: Turlock machine
What are you doing about the rear main pan gasket...thicker gasket?
* Also, how deep is the register? Kinda looks about 25.* Last edited by d.j. moordigian; 03-02-2014 at 12:16 AM. |
03-02-2014, 12:25 AM | #8 |
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Location: Turlock, CA
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Re: Turlock machine
The pan gasket is cork on the cap and is designed for shim adjustment so it is a non issue. The register generally is between .002" and .005" but has never been more than .010"
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03-02-2014, 12:32 AM | #9 | |
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Re: Turlock machine
Quote:
Thanks for splaining youse self ! I hope that all is going well with you and your A/B engine building business. Hope to do (B) business with you in future. Please PM me , if you can use good A blocks...no cracks |
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03-02-2014, 08:44 AM | #10 |
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Re: Turlock machine
My engine is an example that oil grooves are necessary (at least in a Model A engine). My engine was rebuilt without oil grooves on the rods or crankshaft, and long story short; they went bad in hurry.
Also, I have seen original from the factory engines with oil grooves; those that I have seen were always in an "X" pattern. My experience would never convince me that oil grooves are not necessary. Others experience of course may be different.
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03-02-2014, 11:22 AM | #11 |
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Re: Turlock machine
Oil grooves are absolutely necessary for gravity Fed oiling. The inserts shown in my engine at the top of this page have 2 oil grooves in them: the radial groove that you can see in the pic and an axial groove that runs along the part line of the insert. It stops before the rear of the bearing as to not let too much oil out the rear and onto the garage floor.
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03-02-2014, 11:49 AM | #12 |
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Re: Turlock machine
Turlockmachine, you have more than vindicated yourself! Beautiful work, and sound engineering.
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03-02-2014, 12:09 PM | #13 |
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Re: Turlock machine
I understand what your doing and why......good thought!
Do you "pour"? Dudley |
03-02-2014, 12:58 PM | #14 |
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Re: Turlock machine
Having the parting plane of the cap/block no longer at the centerline of the crank makes for an interesting 'fit' of the inserts shown. The shells are designed to achieve proper 'crush' with their parting at the crank centerline. Each shell half has a tab that butts against a flat surface of the other block or cap half. Those tabs prevent rotation, or spun bearings. The block tab is visible in the photo posted. Since the intended shell parting plane is no longer aligned with the block/cap plane, some interference or geometric mismatch will occur as those two tabs are forced to mate with unequal sectors of the bore. I see this as a very bad way to address rear oil seepage.
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03-02-2014, 01:03 PM | #15 |
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Re: Turlock machine
I will have one of Joe's touring motors in my Tudor pretty soon. If you have interest in how Joe's motor performs, there will be ample opportunity to see it for yourself at the NCRG roundup in May or the MAFCA event in July. I'm not stuck up- you can check it out if you want. Listen to it, ride in it, whatever.
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03-02-2014, 01:12 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Turlock machine
Quote:
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03-02-2014, 01:16 PM | #17 |
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Re: Turlock machine
MikeK,
Your analysis is correct, in theory. In practice it holds no water. I have done a few girdle assemblies over the last few years. Since I need the bottom surface to be as uniform as possible, I Blanchard grind the bottom of the block to ensure the surface is true and flat. The shells are actually made to crush on the parting line surfaces. The tabs typically are displaced metal that is actually below the surface and not impacted by the parting line. The practice of pouring is much different than inserted motors, as well the full pressure setups. FWIW, I just fired up a race motor yesterday. With 95 psi on the gauge it leaked nothing. And this from a motor that last year marked it spot in the shop, trailer, tarps etc. I see nothing wrong with Turlocks approach, very good!! |
03-02-2014, 01:30 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Turlock machine
Quote:
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03-02-2014, 01:37 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Turlock machine
Quote:
no problem, .010" is a push. I'd bet those bearings have a "high to medium eccentricity", which gives it some wiggle room. The amount of clearance behind the "tang" should allow for the shell not to distort. |
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03-02-2014, 01:57 PM | #20 | |
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Re: Turlock machine
Quote:
I place the crank in the proper location, the furthest I have had to move one was .014, this to retain proper cam gear relation and offset to bores. You have to be careful when assembling because the insert is proud from the block and recessed into the girdle. I have seen where someone tried to use bearing too small on the OD and moved the crank deeper into block and away from cam to keep gear mesh. IMHO, this works, but I don't subscribe to this practice. If you do the math, moving the CL .015 makes the parting line distance less than .0003 less than Ø. The inserts have a pretty good chamfer/lead- in so it does not create issue. BTW, removing the tangs completely is no issue if the bore is done correctly. The crush to hold inserts in place is the circumference not diameter (~.0031 per .001Ø) J |
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