The Ford Barn

bucket-o-rust · 07-31-2017, 10:54 PM

I want to change or remove and replace the frame on a 1930 pickup. Is it possible to remove the cab and box then lift the frame up and off after the attached parts are removed? I intend to block up the motor to stablilize it and not disconnect the drive train. All other parts are in good condition and do not need any service. I realize the rear motor mounts may be difficult to hook back up that way..

RawhideKid · 07-31-2017, 11:00 PM

Ya know, I think that can be done providing you have everything unhooked from the frame and enough room to move the frame forward to clear the rear motor mounts.

bucket-o-rust · 07-31-2017, 11:12 PM

I intended to remove the rear motor mounts completely and replace the rubber with a new kit but I do need to move frame forward a few inches to clear crank shaft pully.

jw hash · 07-31-2017, 11:14 PM

the motor and trans needs to go out the top of the frame and the front end, rear end with springs go out the bottom.

RawhideKid · 07-31-2017, 11:14 PM

Oh, well in that case, sure, you just need to be sure to support the motor, the rest will fall inline.

JW, I don't know what makes you think that needs to come out the top, you have obviously never had a bare frame. Everything from the trans forward fits nicely between the rails, even leaving the exhaust hooked up.

RawhideKid · 07-31-2017, 11:25 PM

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The ONLY thing that hangs below the drive train is the service brake cross over arm, and like he said, he was removing everything off the frame first, which would include that cross bar and the brake rod off the pedal FIRST, so after that, the frame WILL lift right up, providing you can move it the 3 inches or so to clear the front pulley.

Bob C · 08-01-2017, 10:55 AM

Seems like a lot of work just to keep from undoing a few extra bolts.

Bob

RonC · 08-01-2017, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucket-o-rust

I want to change or remove and replace the frame on a 1930 pickup. Is it possible to remove the cab and box then lift the frame up and off after the attached parts are removed? I intend to block up the motor to stablilize it and not disconnect the drive train. All other parts are in good condition and do not need any service. I realize the rear motor mounts may be difficult to hook back up that way..

No not possible.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-01-2017, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonC

No not possible.

I never thought about doing a frame swap this way, but why wouldn't it work?

If everything is unbolted from the frame, and the rear motor mounts removed, couldn't the front of the frame just be lowered a bit and moved forward to clear the engine pulley, then lift it up and out?

RawhideKid · 08-01-2017, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonC

No not possible.

Ok RonC, this answer is a bit short, so why don't you explain why not? I'm sure the others that know it can be done would like to know your reasoning.

jw hash · 08-02-2017, 12:47 AM

first Rawhidekid be nice, anything is possible. but it is a waste of time to do it that way. and yes I have had a lot of Model A`s a part and back together both for drivers and show and I have three chasses on hand right now.

fordcragar · 08-02-2017, 01:40 AM

It would seem to me it would be easier to have the completed chassis and the new frame sitting side by side, then start removing components from one and install them on the other.

31Tudor · 08-02-2017, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordcragar

It would seem to me it would be easier to have the completed chassis and the new frame sitting side by side, then start removing components from one and install them on the other.

I Totally agree!! That does seem like a lot of extra work, than to just unbolt something and put it on something else.

bucket-o-rust · 08-02-2017, 06:00 PM

Thank you for all the input. I should of added that I do not have anyway to hoist the engine out of the frame. Now after thinking about this operation it may turn out to work very well as I have some excellent wood blocks to block the engine up with so it cannot shift position. Also I have the running board brackets off of each frame that makes it easy to handle. I intend to do this soon and will post results.

Keith True · 08-02-2017, 07:31 PM

It sounds like he is doing JUST a frame swap,not a complete chassis.I did one like that a few years ago.The owner had done a nice job on the car,but he had used a 29 frame under his 31.He was pretty disgusted with himself,because he knew better about the front crossmember.It wasn't even a hard job.I did it to a 61 Corvette back in the middle 70's,and the car had fresh paint so it was quite a project.

old car guy · 08-02-2017, 08:14 PM

I understand you do not have a engine hoist to remove the motor and transmission. But unless you live in the most remote areas of the u.s. There has to be a rental store in your vicinity.
If you plan out everything in advance and have the other chassis beside yours it would be much easier on you and safer to pull and reinstall everything fairly quickly. That. Way you would not have the rented hoist for more than one or two days max.
No matter which way you do it the engine and tranny are rather heavy. And you can be hurt if you are not careful and work safe. The truck is worthless to you if you are mangled and can not drive it or use it anymore due to a injury.
And no body has said it so far the rear spring if still on the truck need to be safely removed and you may look all of the discussions that have taken place here for reference..
plan ahead . Good luck work smart.

SeaSlugs · 08-02-2017, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old car guy

I understand you do not have a engine hoist to remove the motor and transmission. But unless you live in the most remote areas of the u.s. There has to be a rental store in your vicinity.
If you plan out everything in advance and have the other chassis beside yours it would be much easier on you and safer to pull and reinstall everything fairly quickly. That. Way you would not have the rented hoist for more than one or two days max.
No matter which way you do it the engine and tranny are rather heavy. And you can be hurt if you are not careful and work safe. The truck is worthless to you if you are mangled and can not drive it or use it anymore due to a injury.
And no body has said it so far the rear spring if still on the truck need to be safely removed and you may look all of the discussions that have taken place here for reference..
plan ahead . Good luck work smart.

agreed, even a cheap 2K come-a-long and a sturdy garage rafter or two will work as an engine hoist even with the trans attached.

To me it would be much easier to get the engine and trans out, set it on something (old tires) then swap the front and rear axles over. The bare frame a single strong guy or two guys can carry the bare frame around.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-03-2017, 06:16 AM

I built my A frame engine lift for about $20 worth of used 2 x 2 steel tubing, and a $5 swap meet boat trailer winch. A couple months ago I bought the H/F 1 ton engine lift for $100 with a coupon. Both are nice to have and well worth the price.

I've even used a hand winch and tree branch to remove engines.

Chuck Sea/Tac · 08-03-2017, 12:55 PM

Tom have you ever used inner tubes. It works on the same principle of putting rubber bands around a watermelon until it explodes. A guy that used to be in the Seattle club did a Vidio of pulling his engine with inner tube strips. I had him come to the tacoma club and show it for a program. It's not fast... but it works.

07-31-2017, 10:54 PM	#1
bucket-o-rust Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: visalia calif Posts: 263	frame change I want to change or remove and replace the frame on a 1930 pickup. Is it possible to remove the cab and box then lift the frame up and off after the attached parts are removed? I intend to block up the motor to stablilize it and not disconnect the drive train. All other parts are in good condition and do not need any service. I realize the rear motor mounts may be difficult to hook back up that way..

07-31-2017, 11:00 PM	#2
RawhideKid BANNED Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Lower Left Coast Posts: 469	Re: frame change Ya know, I think that can be done providing you have everything unhooked from the frame and enough room to move the frame forward to clear the rear motor mounts. __________________ Before Walmart you had to buy a ticket to the fair to see a bearded lady!

07-31-2017, 11:12 PM	#3
bucket-o-rust Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: visalia calif Posts: 263	Re: frame change I intended to remove the rear motor mounts completely and replace the rubber with a new kit but I do need to move frame forward a few inches to clear crank shaft pully.

07-31-2017, 11:14 PM	#4
jw hash Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn Washington Posts: 2,552	Re: frame change the motor and trans needs to go out the top of the frame and the front end, rear end with springs go out the bottom.

07-31-2017, 11:14 PM	#5
RawhideKid BANNED Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Lower Left Coast Posts: 469	Re: frame change Oh, well in that case, sure, you just need to be sure to support the motor, the rest will fall inline. JW, I don't know what makes you think that needs to come out the top, you have obviously never had a bare frame. Everything from the trans forward fits nicely between the rails, even leaving the exhaust hooked up. __________________ Before Walmart you had to buy a ticket to the fair to see a bearded lady!

07-31-2017, 11:25 PM	#6
RawhideKid BANNED Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Lower Left Coast Posts: 469	Re: frame change Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) The ONLY thing that hangs below the drive train is the service brake cross over arm, and like he said, he was removing everything off the frame first, which would include that cross bar and the brake rod off the pedal FIRST, so after that, the frame WILL lift right up, providing you can move it the 3 inches or so to clear the front pulley. __________________ Before Walmart you had to buy a ticket to the fair to see a bearded lady!

08-01-2017, 10:55 AM	#7
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,754	Re: frame change Seems like a lot of work just to keep from undoing a few extra bolts. Bob

08-02-2017, 12:47 AM	#11
jw hash Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auburn Washington Posts: 2,552	Re: frame change first Rawhidekid be nice, anything is possible. but it is a waste of time to do it that way. and yes I have had a lot of Model A`s a part and back together both for drivers and show and I have three chasses on hand right now.

08-02-2017, 01:40 AM	#12
fordcragar Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Yakima, WA Posts: 479	Re: frame change It would seem to me it would be easier to have the completed chassis and the new frame sitting side by side, then start removing components from one and install them on the other.

08-02-2017, 06:00 PM	#14
bucket-o-rust Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: visalia calif Posts: 263	Re: frame change Thank you for all the input. I should of added that I do not have anyway to hoist the engine out of the frame. Now after thinking about this operation it may turn out to work very well as I have some excellent wood blocks to block the engine up with so it cannot shift position. Also I have the running board brackets off of each frame that makes it easy to handle. I intend to do this soon and will post results.

08-02-2017, 07:31 PM	#15
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,989	Re: frame change It sounds like he is doing JUST a frame swap,not a complete chassis.I did one like that a few years ago.The owner had done a nice job on the car,but he had used a 29 frame under his 31.He was pretty disgusted with himself,because he knew better about the front crossmember.It wasn't even a hard job.I did it to a 61 Corvette back in the middle 70's,and the car had fresh paint so it was quite a project.

08-02-2017, 08:14 PM	#16
old car guy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: tampa fl Posts: 194	Re: frame change I understand you do not have a engine hoist to remove the motor and transmission. But unless you live in the most remote areas of the u.s. There has to be a rental store in your vicinity. If you plan out everything in advance and have the other chassis beside yours it would be much easier on you and safer to pull and reinstall everything fairly quickly. That. Way you would not have the rented hoist for more than one or two days max. No matter which way you do it the engine and tranny are rather heavy. And you can be hurt if you are not careful and work safe. The truck is worthless to you if you are mangled and can not drive it or use it anymore due to a injury. And no body has said it so far the rear spring if still on the truck need to be safely removed and you may look all of the discussions that have taken place here for reference.. plan ahead . Good luck work smart. __________________ old car guy

08-03-2017, 06:16 AM	#18
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: frame change I built my A frame engine lift for about $20 worth of used 2 x 2 steel tubing, and a $5 swap meet boat trailer winch. A couple months ago I bought the H/F 1 ton engine lift for $100 with a coupon. Both are nice to have and well worth the price. I've even used a hand winch and tree branch to remove engines.

08-03-2017, 12:55 PM	#19
Chuck Sea/Tac Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma Posts: 2,354	Re: frame change Tom have you ever used inner tubes. It works on the same principle of putting rubber bands around a watermelon until it explodes. A guy that used to be in the Seattle club did a Vidio of pulling his engine with inner tube strips. I had him come to the tacoma club and show it for a program. It's not fast... but it works.