Steering Gear

[johnsor]

I need to rebuild or replace the steering gear in my 31 Deluxe two door sedan. A friend of mine has a number of used ones, and a couple of them work smoothly with very little gear play.

Other than 30 and 31's having the tapered/keyed steering wheel attachment, how else can I tell if it's the correct one for a 31? I know there are a couple different colume lengths, depending on the model but don't know which one the 2 door sedan uses.

[larrys40]

Johnsor,

The boxes were made by Ford and Gemmer, and are basically identical, except many ( not sure if all) of the Ford boxes I've seen an "F" on the side. The main difference is the steering shaft length, thus making a difference in also the light switch rod. You will have to measure what you have compared to what you're looking at in the other units. In my opinion, almost all boxes need a rebuild... or at least some service to put them into shape. at center steer position (1 1/2 turns) from lock you should have virtually no play ( or very,very slight). There are a number of adjustments in sequence for proper adjustment/function. Refer to the service bulletins for adjustment. There are always debates about using sector housing needle bearings, lip seal, etc. I personally feel these are good but must be done/used/installed with checks to ensure all is properly clearanced/mated. Also, I would suggest the end plate tube to help reduce lower end leakage. As with all rebuilding processes, there are tricks to the trade and good/bad practices. If you are not familiar with the boxes and there is a "seasoned" restorer in your area you may want to obtain his services...
Steering boxes are not as cheap as one might think... Also.. it is the perfect time to restore the column tube, restoring the serrated notches for spark/throttle rods, and taking some steps for antirattle of the rods. Make sure your horn rod is the correct length and the spyder and keeper fit "before" installing in the car. it is much easier to deal with out of the car... than in.

good luck!
Larry Shepard

[johnsor]

Larry, Thanks for your good advice. As a result, I'm not going to fool with a used one and I won't try to rebuild it myself. I need to find someone experienced to send it to for rebuilding. Any ideas who might do this work?

[Patrick L.]

Just get the service bulletins and give an adjustment a try. Its a little time consuming, but, its not difficult and most of the time corrects the problem.

[CarlG]

Most of the vendors offer a rebuilt unit, either rebuild yours or send you one off the shelf and ask for your core.

[tudoor]

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Larry what have you done to restore the notches in the spark and throttle groves. Mine are worn smooth.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I don't like to use a file to REMOVE metal to restore the notches. I'd rather use a chisel to MOVE the metal to remake the notches. You'll have to rest the back of the notched plate on something solid as you use the chisel to stamp in the notches.

[larrys40]

Johnsor & Tudoor,

It's real common they get wore smooth. If there is enough metal I find it takes a little bit of Tom's suggestion using a sharp ( freshly ground sharp) small chisel and also a 3 flat file with a sharp edge to get the grooves back in. Sometimes the quadrant tab ( what the groove are part of) gets bent down.. so it needs to be tapped back into shape, sometimes a little light weld built up and the grooves put back in and reshaped. if you've ever driven one with good "clicks" which is how they were when new you will know the difference. It stays where you want it too.. and feels and sounds right. I must say.. depending on the mast jacket it is a time consuming process. I might add that the end plates should be soldered or silver soldered so the tube is tight.. and leak free.. ( otherwise what's the use in using it).

I think snyders gets $425 (mast jacket not included) for their rebuilt box exchange. I really prefer to do my own rebuilds.. The parts depending what's needed NOT including the mast jacket are about $275 + , so that's a pretty reasonable rebuild price. Mine would probably be about the same. Some of us who do rebuilding like myself, Tom, Brent, etc have things down to a science... but just know it still takes time... and yes.. even we get difficult units that give us trouble now and again. While we're on steering... not only the box, but the steering arms with the balls, end caps/parts should all be replaced or at least checked for wear and correct installation/assembly. I say this as just the other night I pulled an assembly out of a '29 roadster and someone had incorrectly assembled the steer eze kit with teflon inserts incorrectly. The inserts were totally torqued out of shape and junk. I like the teflon inserts as long as they still get grease. All of that, good tires, proper toe in/alignment,kin pins, etc are all important to good tight steering.

hope that all helps,
Larry

[Rowdy]

Also keep in mind there were 2 different lengths of steering shafts and tubes used in 31. The change was with the introduction of the slant windshield cars, it was an inch longer if memory serves me correct. Rod