Checking radiator for overheating problem with 1956 Thunderbird

[zuburg]

Is there an easy way to determine if the distributor is working correctly? It seems to run well at idle and while driving.

[paul2748]

As far as advance, put a timing light on and run up the engine speed. You should see the advance.

Originally Posted by zuburg

Is there an easy way to determine if the distributor is working correctly? It seems to run well at idle and while driving.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by zuburg

What if you have a 13 # cap, which is what I have. That was supposedly the right one for this car.

You're Good!

[paul2748]

I believe that was stock. On old systems, especially an old radiator, a lower rating is advised, around 7 lbs. The higher the pressure rating, the higher the boiling point of the coolant. If your radiator is in good shape, the 13 s/b ok

Originally Posted by zuburg

What if you have a 13 # cap, which is what I have. That was supposedly the right one for this car.

[cokefirst]

Originally Posted by 55blacktie

The cheap, infrared temperature readers aren't particularly accurate; my HF gun can be off by several degrees.

You could be correct, My son has a Fluke one and I have the cheapo Harbor Freight one. They are withing 5 degrees of each other, so maybe I am just lucky.

[zuburg]

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Well, hopefully, the cheap one will be off 5 degrees all the time, so the temperature differences will be relatively accurate?

[paul2748]

You can overheat regardless of the outside temperature if there is a problem with the cooling system. Hot weather only makes it happen sooner.


In a good system, overheating should not occur.


Be sure the head gaskets are installed correctly - the square corner should be in the front and on top. Something some rebuilders do not know.

Originally Posted by zuburg

Will it only overheat on days with very high temperatures like 85 degrees or higher?

[zuburg]

Thanks. I finally have the cooling system holding pressure. The head gaskets are installed correctly with the square corners on the front. My next step is to ensure I don’t have any air pockets in the system, and if that doesn’t help, move to cleaning out or replacing the radiator. It may have some partial blockages.

[KULTULZ]

- THIS THREAD WAS CONTINUED HERE -

- MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE COOLANT TEMP 292 FYB -

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316470

- COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEMS -

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...=1#post2154741

[zuburg]

I thought some of you might get a kick out of the thermostat housing I replaced to solve a coolant leak. Me thinks me tightened the hose clamp a little too much on an old corroded tube. That was never going to stop leaking.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by zuburg

Me thinks me tightened the hose clamp a little too much on an old corroded tube. That was never going to stop leaking.

Now that is gnarly but shows what else in the system may be corroded badly. One reason I hate worm clamps as other than appearance (not correct - gnarly) is that a big fella can put a lot of torque on one.

[paul2748]

You can new tubes for that

[KULTULZ]

Is the original cast iron or aluminum?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Is the original cast iron or aluminum?

The main housing is cast iron and the original small tube is usually steel.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

The main housing is cast iron and the original small tube is usually steel.

THANX! for that.

I guess the repros are alum? I have seen different older styles with some having the by-pass as a part of the casting?

BTW -

That one is pretty gnarly also ...

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by zuburg

I thought some of you might get a kick out of the thermostat housing I replaced to solve a coolant leak. Me thinks me tightened the hose clamp a little too much on an old corroded tube. That was never going to stop leaking.

What shape is the tube at the WP?

[paul2748]

All the repros I've seen were cast iron.
And the water pump nipple also is available repro.

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

THANX! for that.

I guess the repros are alum? I have seen different older styles with some having the by-pass as a part of the casting?

BTW -

That one is pretty gnarly also ...

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

. . .
BTW -
That one is pretty gnarly also ...

It's on my shelf as a leftover 'if you're desperate' spare part. The surface for the upper hose is a bit rougher looking than in the photo. It might work ok for a while with some JB Weld used for filler ???
.

[55blacktie]

As far as I know, only Mummert (ford-y-block-com) has an aluminum thermostat housing; it matches his aluminum intake manifold. Any Tbird supplier will have an original-type, cast-iron thermostat housing. The part # is 8592, which should cost about $50. Before you spend $50 + shipping, you might check with your local parts stores or Rock Auto.

[cokefirst]

If that is an original thermostat housing, you may want to fix it. You can remove and press in a new pipe. The replacement units do not have the casting identification of the OE part. I have fixed several of these for my cars.