F100 Steering box question

[Hotrodvideo]

I have been trying to adjust the F100 box in my '32.

When the adjustment screw is adjusted out it makes a clunking sound and the sector shaft moves back and forth thru the hole in the frame when I turn the steering wheel.

When the screw is adjusted in all the way, it's fine.

What's the deal?

[Mart]

jack up the front wheels. slowly turn the screw in while turning the steering back and forth past the straight ahead position. You will detect a tightness while passing the straight ahead. back off until the tightness can barely be felt. Experiment to get it so there is no play at the straight ahead, but no excessive tightness either.

Lock up the locknut and the steering is adjusted.

This makes the assumption that the tight spot in the steering box is aligned to the wheels being straight ahead. This may not be the case.

If in doubt remove the drag link and just work on the steering box in isolation.

[32phil]

When you run the screw all the way it will cause the worm to bind against the sector and the steering will be tight if it turns at all. When you run the screw all the way the other way it will back the sector away from the worm and that's why it will move in and out. Perfectly normal operation. Follow Mart's directions and you should be all set.

[Hotrodvideo]

I might have to remove the drag link because there might be slop in the tie rod end that attaches to the steering arm.

But the sector shaft moves in and out as soon as I loosen up the adjustment screw a little. That's normal operation?

[Mart]

The steering is designed to have play in it everywhere except the straight ahead. The closer to full lock the more play. There will be end float in the sector shaft until you take out the play. That's why you have to carefully adjust it near the straight ahead position. If you adjusted the play out off centre, then you could damage something if you wind it past the straight ahead (it would be very tight).

With the drag link disconnected, turn the steering box from lock to lock and then count back half way. That should be the straight ahead position. Take up the play at that position, carefully passing rocking the steering past the mid point. When all play is eliminated at the straight ahead, that's it. At the straight ahead there will be no end play on the sector shaft. Towards each lock there should be plenty of free play in the steering and end play on the sector shaft.

Mart.

[NealinCA]

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Originally Posted by Hotrodvideo

I might have to remove the drag link because there might be slop in the tie rod end that attaches to the steering arm.

But the sector shaft moves in and out as soon as I loosen up the adjustment screw a little. That's normal operation?

Yes, the adjusting screw has a plste that slides into a T-slot on the end of the sector shaft. This moves the sector roller in and out in relation to the worm. It is best adjusted with the drag link removed.

Put some tape on your steering wheel hub and your column. Make a mark at the 12 o-clock position on the column. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and mark the wheel in line with the mark on the column. Then turn the wheel all the way to the left counting revolutions. Make a second mark on the wheel. Now count back 1/2 of the revolutions, which should be in the middle of your two marks. This should put the box in the "neutral" position, which would be with the wheels pointed straight ahead.

Now you can start adjusting the screw. Thread the screw in until you feel a slight drag in the neutral position. It should turn smoothly lock to lock, with only a slight darg in the middle.

This adjustment method works with any of the gemmer III boxes, such as 37-48 cross steer, 48-52 F-1 and 53-60 F-100.

Hope that helps.

Neal

[NealinCA]

Looks like Mart beat me to it...

[Hotrodvideo]

How do you guys know when you have the right combination of shim gaskets in relation to the adjustment screw?

[Mart]

The shim gaskets are for adjusting the end float on the worm. You should check this first before adjusting the sector shaft end float.

Rock the steering wheel gently back and forth and look at the gap between the steering wheel and the column mast. If you can see the gap changing there is too much play and you should take shims out until the play is reduced to zero but dot't take too many out as if too tight it can cause problems like not wanting to self centre after a turn. Slightly loose is better than too tight.

Mart.

[NealinCA]

This link explains the adjustment of a Gemmer III box pretty well...

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...tmt1937-48.htm

Like Mart said, the shim gaskets on the end plate adjust bearing preload. The adjusting screw on the side plate sets the worm and roller lash.

Neal