'40 Ford body to frame question

[V8 Bob]

I am in the final "dry" build of my coupe before complete disassembly, paint, etc, and final build. The body is completely bare with no doors, trunk, glass, seat, etc., and is resting on new body pads. My question-should the body be able to "rock" from the extreme rear to front pads? It sits snug at the rear, but needs to be pulled down just under 1/2" at the 2 front mounts. I can minimize the distance by substituting a few thick frame pads in the seat area for thinner 1/8" webbing, but am not sure if that’s necessary, or what is acceptable. Thanks.

[19Fordy]

Did it "rock" on the frame when the body was assembled with doors, glass, etc.?
Was it ever in an accident?
When you completely assemble it on the frame you may find that it levels out , but you may also need to add shims for proper door alignment.

[Karl Wescott]

The short answer is NO!. The body should be snug at all body bolts (or why have them).

DO NOT simply bolt the body to the frame at this point an expect anything else to fit. Any movement of the body while being bolted affects the fit of the doors, the hood (and by extension the grille), fenders, and deck lid. As noted you will likely need shims for proper alignment of the doors, fenders etc. Excessive shim thickness could point to a frame problem or a body problem (sill or floorpan repair?). The frame diagram in our catalog or website www.wescottsauto.com > tech > frame diagrams may help you in checking the frame.

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Did it "rock" on the frame when the body was assembled with doors, glass, etc.?
Was it ever in an accident?
When you completely assemble it on the frame you may find that it levels out , but you may also need to add shims for proper door alignment.

I don't remember, or probably didn't pay much attention to how the body fit the frame when I disassembled the car, as that was "many" years ago.
There is no evidence of any serious accidents on the frame or body.

[Gumpy]

NO,, the weight of those items taken off should keep it from rocking,, I tried webbing on mine and settled for just the rubber mounting pads and correct bolts from Roy Nacewicz....

[Kube]

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In my opinion Karl has offerd you the best advice. I strongly suggest you heed it.
Adding shims only solves a problem in one area and surely a problem will show up elsewhere. NOW is the time to be certain that the body fits correctly to the frame and the doors, etc. fit correctly to the body.
A properly prepared body should fit with minimal shims. Finding the "need" to add thicker shim equates to something(s) out of alignment and / or kilter.

[john worden]

All said and done you will have to do what ever it takes to fit THAT body to THAT frame. Start with factory dimension pads and adjust from there with/without additional shimming. Remember that uneven torquing of the body mount bolts can twist the body out of spec. Your goal is factory fit of all the body panels. Dry fitting ALL the body panels now will dial in the fit but once you blow it all apart again unless you fit the exact pads/shims and match the exact bolt torque you will be back to square one at final assembly time. Mix in a damaged frame or major floor/sill replacement for more challenge.
Luck
John

[V8 Bob]

Thanks to all that have replied.
As I stated before, I don't remember exactly how the body fit when I removed the OE bolts, but I lifted the body fully intact, and am curious if, as Gumpy stated, a complete body will sit better/different than a bare one.
I'm going to temporarily install the doors, trunk lid, seat and go from there.
Didn't Ford install complete bodies on the frames, vs. totally bare bodies?

[George/Maine]

If you did any replacing of floor,medal patches,ect.
This could be why it does,nt sit correct.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

Thanks to all that have replied.
As I stated before, I don't remember exactly how the body fit when I removed the OE bolts, but I lifted the body fully intact, and am curious if, as Gumpy stated, a complete body will sit better/different than a bare one.
I'm going to temporarily install the doors, trunk lid, seat and go from there.
Didn't Ford install complete bodies on the frames, vs. totally bare bodies?

It depended on the body style and year as to what exactly was "included" within / on the body drop,
In theory, any pressure applied to the body (especially downward) can effect the fit of door gaps, etc.
As no one responding to you has seen what condition the frame is currently in nor the body and / or the quality level of any previous repairs, no one can offer any perfect solution.
First and foremost you must be certain the frame is straight. Then, I would suggest you bolt the body down upon the appropriate pads / shims and see how the doors fit.
It is at this point, you should be certain the door gaps are proper. To increase or decrease the thickness of shim(s) at this time is proper. If you have to add or subtract more than perhaps 1/8" I'd strongly suggest you look closely for poor prior repairs and / or a twisted / bent frame.
And, as John had advised, improper torque applied to the body mount bolts will most certainly effect the alignment.
I have seen guys make THE body fit to THE frame in the past and utilized shims accordingly only to find later on that they created a nightmare.

Like a great paint job, proper preparation is is everything!

[Mart]

Don't stake the farm on this, but I think the rearmost spacers on my 40 coupe (body never off before I did it) were twice as thick as the ones under the main body. I'd bolt the main part of the body down and leave the rearmost mounts till last and as long as the gaps are not massively wide just fit suitable spacers to fill the gap.

The fitting of the cowl area is the most critical, get this part right, taking into account all the front fenders and hood etc, then work backwards.

Mart.

[George/Maine]

The swap I did was use a 35 frame with 39 body.
I had no pads in back and let front sit down were it went, maybe a shim or 2.
Now in the back the frames 35 36 1/2 are not the same,as 36 1/2 to 40.
I had to add many shims to get the body to touch maybe as much as 1 1/2 to 2" in back.
One shim over axle,and one inside seat pocket.

[V8 Bob]

I appreciate everyone's input, information and suggestions. Thanks again.

[ems customer service]

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

I am in the final "dry" build of my coupe before complete disassembly, paint, etc, and final build. The body is completely bare with no doors, trunk, glass, seat, etc., and is resting on new body pads. My question-should the body be able to "rock" from the extreme rear to front pads? It sits snug at the rear, but needs to be pulled down just under 1/2" at the 2 front mounts. I can minimize the distance by substituting a few thick frame pads in the seat area for thinner 1/8" webbing, but am not sure if that’s necessary, or what is acceptable. Thanks.

before you crank down the body bolts , you need to put the doors and trunk lid back on to make sure they fit correct, you can twist the body when trying to bring the body to the frame. when the doors and trunk fit right, then use spacers to fill any gap between the frame and body, it does not matter where it used be before you started your project that is history, it is now a new build it is very common to use spacers.

the ems guy

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by ems customer service

before you crank down the body bolts , you need to put the doors and trunk lid back on to make sure they fit correct, you can twist the body when trying to bring the body to the frame. when the doors and trunk fit right, then use spacers to fill any gap between the frame and body, it does not matter where it used be before you started your project that is history, it is now a new build it is very common to use spacers.

the ems guy

Thanks for your input.