My Latest Haul and Collection thus Far

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you can't find Kroil, then use diesel, kerosene, or any penetrating fluid. Can you tell if the distributor has ONE long shaft to the drive gear, or does it have the correct TWO PIECE shaft? Either way you should be able to lift the head a bit and use a punch and hammer the drive gear down to try to free it from the shaft for the distributor.

[JBR]

Kroil isn't available in retail stores. You can find it a www.kanolabs.com As far as the grinder goes, you could. You probably won't reuse the shafts anyway.

[1931 flamingo]

Earlier this year when I had to remove my dist, it was "stuck". I tried acetone and ATF, no dice. I tried prying carefully with 2 screwdrivers, no dice. I was trying to save it as a core, but went and got 3 foot crowbar and inserted it underneath the pin area and "pow" out it came, no damage.
If you're not concerned with saving it get yourself a "bar" and try that method.
Paul in CT

[Fred K-OR]

I think there is a product like Kroil called "PC Blaster" that seems to work OK and I think you can buy it from a local parts store.

[Model A Fan]

Soooooo....I got the head off! What I ended up doing was cutting the shaft into three pieces (the first cut didn't let me pull the bottom piece out). So, the distributor is now out and the head is off!

The pistons, intake and exhaust valves look OK and I will post pictures hopefully in the morning.

I think I will have to add to my previous shopping list...haha! I keep finding more and more pieces to add the further along I go. Anyway, I will probably rebuild my oil pump and buy a rebuilt distributor, so that I know it is done properly.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Are you doing a complete teardown of the engine? If not, do you have a plan to remove all the grindings? Mounting the engine on a stand with the valve chamber down, then using a syphon sprayer with some gas to flush out the chamber is the best way I can think of. I use my syphon sprayer and brushes to clean old outboards and engines all the time.

[Model A Fan]

I am planning on washing out the valve chamber. I just planned on washing it down with a solvent of some sort and draining it through the hole where the distributor shaft was. I see the syphon sprayer is like what they use at a dentist's office, only heavier duty and for solvents?

Before I go and try to rip the oil pan apart, does the part that has the dimples for oil "pop" out or is there some other way I need to remove it? I would like to clean the inside and get it empty of the sludge.

Here are some photos...

[Model A Fan]

[Model A Fan]

[Model A Fan]

Cylinder 4


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 1










Grime in the oil pan:

[JBR]

Your motor has been bored to .060 over. The distributor shaft looks like a one piece shaft and probably didn't help you get it out.

Take the oil pan and hold it upside down about waist high and drop it on the ground. The tray should pop out.

[Model A Fan]

Originally Posted by JBR

Your motor has been bored to .060 over. The distributor shaft looks like a one piece shaft and probably didn't help you get it out.

Take the oil pan and hold it upside down about waist high and drop it on the ground. The tray should pop out.

Is that a good or a bad thing to have been bored to 0.06 over?

I have heard that if I just pour solvent into the oil tray, I can just swirl it around and just dump it out after I've gotten it clean too. I don't want to damage it. Drop it onto...cement? Gravel? Grass? Cardboard?

[1931 flamingo]

Grass.....
Paul in CT

[Tom Wesenberg]

Drop or lightly throw the pan upside down onto grass as mentioned and the tray should pop out. Unless you have the engine upside down (head down in the engine stand) some grit can and will go down the main bearing oil feed tubes (not good). At this point I'd remove the pistons and crankshaft and give the block a thorough cleaning and check the pistons for wear and replace the rings. Check the babbit to see it it's OK. With the pistons in the block you can look down the top edge and see the ring gap on the top compression ring.

I don't know how much you plan to spend, or what your goals are for the engine, but at this point a honing, new rings, and thorough cleaning are in order, at the very least.

[Model A Fan]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Drop or lightly throw the pan upside down onto grass as mentioned and the tray should pop out. Unless you have the engine upside down (head down in the engine stand) some grit can and will go down the main bearing oil feed tubes (not good). At this point I'd remove the pistons and crankshaft and give the block a thorough cleaning and check the pistons for wear and replace the rings. Check the babbit to see it it's OK. With the pistons in the block you can look down the top edge and see the ring gap on the top compression ring.

I don't know how much you plan to spend, or what your goals are for the engine, but at this point a honing, new rings, and thorough cleaning are in order, at the very least.

OK, well I'll pop the pan out and give it a good scrub down. As for the honing and new rings, if I have good compression and it is pretty smooth, is all I'm doing just getting the "glazing" off? I researched how to hone a cylinder. Would I want the hone that has all of the little balls on the tips of the wires or the three pronged hone with the flat gritty piece? I would assume that, because you want cross hatching, that a smooth cylinder is not good?

I did not anticipate having to break my entire engine down to a block when I started as I did not want to get in over my head. Removing the crank and pistons isn't too big of a job, but one I would assume has to be done carefully.

I'm just a little nervous about the complete disassembly of the engine. That's all...I assume it is relatively easy to put back together as long as I retain the pieces and put it back together in the order it came out.

As far as the removal of the pistons and rings and crank-is there anything I need to be EXTRA careful of or is it just unbolt and go?

Thanks. I don't want to mess this part up...

[Fred K-OR]

I think if I remember correctly, Andrews has some stuff in his book about how to do this. Guess this is all the advise I can give in that I have never done this type of thing.

It would seem like you might want to decide how far you want to go with your engine. Cleaning it is well worth the effort to get all the junk out of it. But then it would seem like you would have to decide how much further you want to go. If you have no problem about taking the engine in and out of your car, then you maybe could put it back together and go for it and see how it runs. I assume the problem here might be that if you had tore it completely down, you could have solved some little things now that might be bigger ones later on. Tom's advise is very good above but guess you need to decide which way you may want to go from here.


Good luck and keep up the good work.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Mark each rod and cap so you keep them together and in the same hole they came out of. It's common to mark the rods and caps on the side that faces the cam by using a center punch and making dots, one dot for number one rod, etc.

Pay attention to clearances and cleanliness.

[jcheshire31]

Make sure not to knick the journals of the crank shaft in any way. If you want to be safe you can put tape around the rod bolts. Get some plastigauge to check the clearance of the rods and mains. When you put it all back together make sure all of the pistons are facing the direction they were when they came out and all the caps (rods and mains) are facing the same directions they were when they came out. I personally wouldn't of done this alone my first time. I think someone talked about getting in a local club and asking for some help. Especially if this is your first engine tear down.

[Fred K-OR]

Here is a distributor being sold on EBay. Don't know the condition but if price is right it may do.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-FORD-D...sories&vxp=mtr

[ratamahata]

First would have take apart all the parts involved in the engine and clean to remove the rust from all parts in general...
The cylinder walls seem to have little wear, and the cylinder head surface is well, it seems, but take a look in the cooling ducts for some rust...
Make a cleaning by a qualified professional with molasses to clean the block cooling ducts...
Honing the cylinder walls to accept new rings, grinding the valves, set the crankshaft and connecting rods...

Engine rebuild Items from Bentley's

Complete disassembly and documentation

Removal of all studs, rethreading of bolt holes

Cooling passages sandblasted

Engine parts professionally cleaned

Magna fluxed and checked for cracks

Head and block resurfaced

Crankshaft ground and polished

Cylinders bored and honed

Cylinders Sleeved if needed

New pistons and rings

Rebuilt Connecting Rods

Piston pins fitted.

Hardened Valve seats installed

New Valve Guides installed

New Stainless Steel Valves

Adjustable Tappets

New valve springs and retainers

Reground Cam

New timing gear

Flywheel resurfaced

New flywheel ring gear installed

Rebuilt pressure plate installed.

New Clutch plate

New pilot bearing

Complete rotating assembly balanced

New 4X Nickel Babbitt poured in block

Crankshaft fitted to .0015”

Rebuilt Oil pump

Premium Gaskets used throughout

New External Nuts and Bolts

New Crankshaft pulley and ratchet nut

Complete assembly and testing