My Latest Haul and Collection thus Far

[Stinch]

Originally Posted by Model A Fan

Yeah, I was looking at that last night and wondering why there was a grease fitting there. What would the proper plug look like? If I want to run a vacuum line I assume this would be where it goes? A vacuum line for what though?

From Synder's web site:

I understand the vacuum plug is 1/8-27 NPT Pipe thread (same as oil pump port); Synder's pn # A-6621 or Bratton's pn # 9900. Cars with a vacuum wiper would use this port, otherwise it would be plugged for cars equipped with electric wipers.

Rich

[Fred K-OR]

In one of your photos, I noticed you did not have a battery rack. This fits right under the drivers feet. And when you get it installed you need to put your ground cable on the other side of the tranny.

Reason I posted this is that I have a battery rack. If you need it, send me an email.

[Model A Fan]

I picked up a port plug in my last order. I have almost everything I need now. I decided to bite the bullet and purchase most everything (except for shocks, need to do some more research on them) I will be needing.

Thanks Fred, I have a battery rack, I need to clean it up, prime and paint it. Got it with the fenders and engine that I picked up back in July. Progress is just kind of slow due to the amount of school work and work work I have. I picked up a second job doing landscaping, and I start tomorrow (I run my own business, so I am able to schedule my free days for work). I think it is Model A money that I will be earning at the landscaping job and savings money at my seafood job.

Thanks everyone! I will be probably doing an entire gasket swap on the engine to freshen everything up. Is there something I should do/not do when replacing the gaskets? I will be doing the oil pan also, so I will drop the pan, clean it out, replace the gaskets and the rope(?) thingy too. It is too bad it is getting cold, fast. I hate working on engines in the cold. Freezes your fingers something awful.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Model A Fan

...As for the high compression head, I just can't afford it...

A Snyders 5.5 head isn't all that expensive, especially compared to a lot of other things that will need to go into your project. Probably the "Best-Bang-For-The-Buck" of anything I've done to my rig.

[Russell in Tulsa]

When you take off the engine pan you will find a dipper tray for the rods to splash in and oil all it touches. After you wipe out the liquid oil, turn it upside down and holding it about 12-18" off of the grass slam it to the ground to remove the dipper tray. You should put some cardboard on the ground first to catch the sludge and debris and to be "green". After it is cleaned it will press back in by hand. One other thing I didn't do once, and only once, remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine with the hand crank and make sure you don't hear the rod ends hitting the dipper tray. I say this because I bought a rebuilt engine, installed it, put the radiator back on, hood etc. before I started it for its' test run and heard a terrible racket. Thought the pistons were swapping holes!

Well, back apart with the engine, checking everything and found it had the wrong dipper tray in the pan. Grabbed another one from my stash and put it back together again. Can't continue the other problems at this time I have encountered, sorry for the long, Woe is me, tale.
Have fun and keep the pictures coming.

[Model A Fan]

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Well, I had a long conversation with my girlfriend and have decided that I will not be going to Taiwan. It is just not something I really have a desire to do, despite the fact that I am taking Chinese and ESL instructing classes. I didn't want to give up everything I have going for me here. I would have been moving for a girl, and I've been told that it is a bad idea...

On the other hand, it does free up some extra money for my project! Maybe I can afford a high compression head now...? Anyway, I just didn't see myself in Taiwan and it was a big move to make. I'm looking at a job offer at a business where they make UAV parts out of carbon fiber, so it would be a new type of job from my current grocery store position.

I may get the high compression head and then do the gasket swap. Also got new spark plugs and brass straps for them. I have A LOT (!!!) of parts coming this next week and received a big order on Tuesday.

[Bill O'Brien]

Hey, a head that I regret not getting is the Winfield aluminum head:

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/mod...ine_parts.html

[Model A Fan]

Originally Posted by Bill O'Brien

Hey, a head that I regret not getting is the Winfield aluminum head:

http://www.reds-headers.com/html/mod...ine_parts.html

With a higher compression head, I would need the Model B gasket, new studs (do I need new ones?) and obviously the head. Are there other parts I would need to go with it? Do I have to worry about pistons or any other parts that are internal?

Any other brand recommendations? I am looking for a good buy, and would even consider a used one...

Thanks!

[Model A Fan]

I got the starter mounted and took some photos. I'll try to get them uploaded either tonight or tomorrow...

Not a ton of progress I know, but school has been taking over my life along with work. I might also get a different job, so I've been trying to figure that out. I would have much better hours (8-3PM), so I would be able to work on the truck much more.

As for overhauling the engine, I'd like to wait for a high compression head before I pull everything apart and replace all of the gaskets, studs, etc. IF I put a new head on it, what should I plan on doing aside from putting in new gaskets? I'm tempted to not do anything to it and just leave the stock head on, but I've got some extra cash building up for my project, so I'd like to do it all in one fell swoop.

I'm planning on running the engine before I dismantle it and redo the entire beast. Should I change the oil, oil pan gaskets and make sure there isn't any sludge in it before I pull it apart or should I do that after I just check to see if it will run?

Also, any leads or recommendations on high compression heads would be greatly appreciated!

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Model A Fan

I got the starter mounted and took some photos. I'll try to get them uploaded either tonight or tomorrow...

Not a ton of progress I know, but school has been taking over my life along with work. I might also get a different job, so I've been trying to figure that out. I would have much better hours (8-3PM), so I would be able to work on the truck much more.

As for overhauling the engine, I'd like to wait for a high compression head before I pull everything apart and replace all of the gaskets, studs, etc. IF I put a new head on it, what should I plan on doing aside from putting in new gaskets? I'm tempted to not do anything to it and just leave the stock head on, but I've got some extra cash building up for my project, so I'd like to do it all in one fell swoop.

I'm planning on running the engine before I dismantle it and redo the entire beast. Should I change the oil, oil pan gaskets and make sure there isn't any sludge in it before I pull it apart or should I do that after I just check to see if it will run?

Also, any leads or recommendations on high compression heads would be greatly appreciated!

From what I read on this forum, most people recommend pulling the pan of an unknown engine and make sure it has no sludge before trying to start it.

After checking the pan and if there was some way to get the engine started, I think I would get it running and then see what it needs. In this statement, I am assuming you do not know the condition of your engine. So I would think it would be good to check it out before you do much more with it unless you wanted to go for a complete rebuild.

[Model A Fan]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

From what I read on this forum, most people recommend pulling the pan of an unknown engine and make sure it has no sludge before trying to start it.

After checking the pan and if there was some way to get the engine started, I think I would get it running and then see what it needs. In this statement, I am assuming you do not know the condition of your engine. So I would think it would be good to check it out before you do much more with it unless you wanted to go for a complete rebuild.

The engine I have came from a running coupe, but I have no idea when it had the oil changed, if the guy who had it before me cleaned any sludge out etc. It is pretty clean though, so I imagine it was well cared for. The guy I got it from wanted to put a flathead in his coupe, so he was getting rid of the engine and other parts pretty cheap.

I'm still debating on the high compression head. It would be nice to have the extra "oomph", but what will the cost (head, gaskets, studs, etc) cost me in the long run? I will have to figure that out to see if I want to go the extra bucks for all of that...

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Model A Fan

The engine I have came from a running coupe, but I have no idea when it had the oil changed, if the guy who had it before me cleaned any sludge out etc. It is pretty clean though, so I imagine it was well cared for. The guy I got it from wanted to put a flathead in his coupe, so he was getting rid of the engine and other parts pretty cheap.

I'm still debating on the high compression head. It would be nice to have the extra "oomph", but what will the cost (head, gaskets, studs, etc) cost me in the long run? I will have to figure that out to see if I want to go the extra bucks for all of that...

What a number of people here in our Model A club do is they will first put in a Mitchel two speed overdrive and then they find they want to put on a high compression head. So I don't know how much you would benifit just from putting on a high compression head. These are the members that like to go on a lot of tours.

[MN Stumpjumper]

I would get the chassis to running and driving condition. You can install a different head later easy enough. You might be satisfied with the stock motor.

[Model A Fan]

What I started with...the engine seems to be pretty clean inside. The intake and exhaust seems to be black, but I'm not sure how clean they should be. I popped the distributor apart, but I can't figure out how to get it to come out of the block...anybody know something that I'm not doing right? I unscrewed the nut and bolt from below the distributor and it sill won't come out.

The oil pan was pretty darned clean! I was surprised that there wasn't more build up. Anyway, hope you enjoy the photos! I was happy to get the engine to this point. The fun part will be replacing the gaskets. How should I get the old ones off? Screwdriver and scrape?







Freshly mounted starter...

[Model A Fan]

If you see something that I need to address, please tell me. I am just pulling the engine apart, so I am not really sure what I should be looking for. I know there is a bit of rust inside the valve cover...is that normal? Any special way I should clean it? I need to remove the distributor before I can get the head off, but that is turning out to be more difficult than I thought...

[Model A Fan]

If I leave the oil pan off for a few days while I am painting it, will it develop rust inside?

[JBR]

I don't see any cotter pins on the rod or the main nuts. Are they tight?

[Tom Wesenberg]

The spring for the oil pump/dist. drive gear is broken and needs to be replaced. Also be sure to replace the spring that holds the oil pump in place, if it has any rust or pits.

Make sure the rods have .001" to .002" clearance, then install the cotter pins.

Sand or wire brush off the rust on the crank gear, so it doesn't wear the cam gear.

The ports all look fine as far as the black you mentioned.

I aways sandblast the inside of the oil pan and valve cover and paint them inside and out. Be sure to remove the dipper tray first, even if you are just cleaning the parts and not painting the inside.

Spray some Kroil in the distributor lock bolt hole and around the part that slips into the head, as well as the lower shaft. It may be the lower shaft is rusted together and holding the distributor down. I've had this happen on a couple of engines I took apart.

From what I can see it looks like a late 28 or early 29 engine.

[Super88]

Great project. I've spent my share of time looking for misplaced tools also. Now I buy tools with brightly colored handles and grips so I can spot them easier.

[Model A Fan]

Originally Posted by JBR

I don't see any cotter pins on the rod or the main nuts. Are they tight?

I assume I need them to keep the nuts from coming off? I will get some...

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

The spring for the oil pump/dist. drive gear is broken and needs to be replaced. Also be sure to replace the spring that holds the oil pump in place, if it has any rust or pits.

Make sure the rods have .001" to .002" clearance, then install the cotter pins.

Sand or wire brush off the rust on the crank gear, so it doesn't wear the cam gear.

The ports all look fine as far as the black you mentioned.

I aways sandblast the inside of the oil pan and valve cover and paint them inside and out. Be sure to remove the dipper tray first, even if you are just cleaning the parts and not painting the inside.

Spray some Kroil in the distributor lock bolt hole and around the part that slips into the head, as well as the lower shaft. It may be the lower shaft is rusted together and holding the distributor down. I've had this happen on a couple of engines I took apart.

From what I can see it looks like a late 28 or early 29 engine.

So, replace the spring on the bottom of the oil pump with this one here:
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1459

Install cotter pins into end of the "rods". Any specific type? I found them on Snyder's site, but you have to buy the nut that goes with them, and they are $0.55 for a nut and pin. That makes it a little over $8 for all the cotter pins and then left over nuts...and measure the clearance-from end of bolt to where? I am not sure what this means.

I'll remove the tray with the baffles, clean it and paint it with...primer and what kind of paint? High heat?

Replace the drive spring with this one:
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1451

Originally Posted by Super88

Great project. I've spent my share of time looking for misplaced tools also. Now I buy tools with brightly colored handles and grips so I can spot them easier.

Yeah, I knocked over my socket set yesterday and now I'm missing a 7/16 socket. It is silver. Try finding that on gray gravel...

Here is my new shopping list...am I missing anything?
Drive Gear Spring (2)
Oil Pump Screen Cover Gasket (2)
Oil Return Pipe Gaskets (2 pair)
Gear Cover Gasket (2)
Oil Pressure Gauge Hookup Kit (1) I have the gauge already, but it came with plastic tubing...
Oil Drain Plug Gasket (2)
Retainer Spring (2)
Oil Spring Retainer Clip (2)
Wolf Whistle (just because Gotta whistle at the ladies!)

Would anybody recommend this here over the rope seals? It is much more expensive...:
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1467

Am I missing anything below? What would be the best way to remove the rust from the inside of the valve area?

Thanks everyone!