Shifting trouble in a 29'

[iamskee]

3 short videos, sorry for the late add...

https://vimeo.com/216339201

https://vimeo.com/216339178

https://vimeo.com/216339149

[iamskee]

If you click on the Vimeo, and open the video there, there are comments I made. I didn't know it wouldn't show up here.

[Brian in Wheeling]

you need to adjust your clutch.
Brian

[RawhideKid]

You seriously need to adjust your clutch!

I would start by backing off the adjustment of the pedal to get the throw out bearing away from the pressure plate fingers, then make a depth tool with a 5/8 step, then adjust all the fingers out to meet it, then readjust the pedal to just touch the fingers at 1" pedal travel.

That will get you at the point you need.

[J Franklin]

Replace the spring on the throwout collar. You can see it is not returning the collar and pedal

[RonC]

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As was mentioned replace the throw out bearing sleeve spring. There is a grease fitting on the top of the sleeve. You can add a little grease one or two shots. Do not put or spray any thing else inside the inspection area that has any lubricant properties. Make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. Drive the car around it has been sitting and your clutch disk may be sticking on the transmission shaft.

[Jacksonlll]

All this talk about getting the t/o brg rearward has nothing to do with a dragging clutch. You need to move the brg more forward to see if that reduces the drag. Easy to do and will tell you a lot.

[100IH]

It may be difficult to replace the return spring through the inspection hole. When you order the spring, get 2 just in-case the first one gets stretched out or damaged. At that point, you will be removing the rear axle and the transmission. With the trans out, you can replace the spring and your in a good position to inspect the: 1. flywheel housing alignment, 2. flywheel surface, 3. clutch levers and springs, including the adjustments on the levers when mounted to the flywheel off the car, 4. finally, the clutch disk itself. It's called covering all the bases so as not to have to do any of it twice. Don't despair yet, Slow down the idle some more, retard the spark some, take a sample of the gearbox lube, it should be almost like honey.

[Big hammer]

I second the too fast of an idle !

[J Franklin]

The bearing needs to move rearward to keep it from wearing out prematurely and to facilitate adjusting the clutch to release the disk when the pedal is depressed. I think with care the spring can be replaced with the trans in the car. You may want to tie a string around it in case it should drop.

[iamskee]

Thank you all for the replies. The current issue is not the clutch, not the adjustment and not the idle. The issue is the retraction of the bearing. I greased the "slider bearing/hub" from the grease fitting. I worked the pedal many times and it still did not return to a position where the hub stops spinning. I had the car idle the whole time. I pressed the pedal all the way to reveal the shaft it slides on and put some oil there. Again, I worked the pedal and still the pedal/bearing unit does not retract enough to stop the bearing from spinning

I checked the strength of the spring and it seems pretty tight, enough that it should
be able to retract everything. Is there another test I can do before replacing the spring (or anything else for that matter)? I was thinking about unhooking the spring to release all tension from the hub and then try to move the bug back and fourth, working it without the spring tension.

Thoughts? Thank you again, I really appreciate your detailed answers.

[Art Newland]

Does it stop spinning if you pull the pedal back with your fingers?

[iamskee]

Yes it stops spinning. Just pulling the pedal back with a slight touch stops the bearing.

[iamskee]

I should note I added 4 pumps of grease. I didn't want to add too much. Maybe I didn't add enough? It still feels like there is too much friction between the shaft and the slider, but I wouldn't know for sure with the spring tension.

[Jim/GA]

Temporarily disconnect the clutch pedal clevis from the clutch release arm to see if you can isolate where the binding is. It might be the pedal or clevis that are binding.

4 pumps of grease is way too much.

[iamskee]

Thanks, Jim. I have a small grease gun so it's not as much as a full size one. I disconnected the clutch pedal earlier and the pedal was able to move freely with no binding.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by iamskee

Thanks, Jim. I have a small grease gun so it's not as much as a full size one. I disconnected the clutch pedal earlier and the pedal was able to move freely with no binding.

OK, then carefully (do not drop it) replace the return spring with a new one that is (hopefully) stronger and not stretched out.

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you still have the shift tower removed, just clamp it in a vice and shift through the gears.
If it shifts good, then the problem is elsewhere.

[iamskee]

Ok thanks Jim. I Will order a new spring today. Will keep posted.

Tom, I am able to shift fine. The issue is the the bearing and hub are not retracting on the shaft. I didn't think it could be the spring becuass it's nearly new... but at this point I'm not sure what else could be causing it to bind and not retract back.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The AA uses a shorter hub for the throw out bearing, so hopefully you have the correct longer one for cars.

Maybe someone has pictures to compare the two different hubs.