05-30-2015, 09:21 PM | #1 |
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Water Pump ID
did a search and just came up with threads describing waterpump locations relative to year of block.
My engine (78 Series) was rebuilt two years ago, unfortunately I have no data from the build. I heard an intermittent noise the other day that sounded a bit bearing like and from the front right of the engine. Can't be sure as it only made the noise while underway. Hasn't made the noise since though. Anyway I have been slightly concerned about coolant temps and it does look like the right side of the engine runs a bit warmer than the left. Was curios to know if there is any easy way to distinguish between a Ford, Drake, Speedway or other pump? Also, if a ford pump, any external telltale on bearing v. bushing? |
05-30-2015, 11:31 PM | #2 |
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Re: Water Pump ID
A Ford pump; if it has double sheave pulley it has a bearing, if single sheave, it has a bushing
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05-31-2015, 12:20 AM | #3 |
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Re: Water Pump ID
The right side will run about 10 degrees cooler than the left Good Luck
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05-31-2015, 05:28 AM | #4 |
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Re: Water Pump ID
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05-31-2015, 07:02 AM | #5 |
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Re: Water Pump ID
I guess I'm a little thick this morning but, what's a (78 series engine)?
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05-31-2015, 07:12 AM | #6 |
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Re: Water Pump ID
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05-31-2015, 08:38 AM | #7 | |
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Re: Water Pump ID
Quote:
1932 18 Series 33-34 40 Series 34-35 48 Series 36 68 Series 37-38 78 Series (when water pump moved down to block) then on to the 91s i can't remember where i read this. but looking at part numbers from various suppliers it seems quite a bit the p/n starts out with a number for when that part was first used. IE there are more than a few 78-XXXX p/ns out there. i don't know still learning... Walt, it would seem you aren't too far away from (down outside of Damariscotta myself). If you are ok with it i would love to swing by sometime and learn a bit! |
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05-31-2015, 09:03 AM | #8 |
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Re: Water Pump ID
Upgraded is a misused word, should be down graded. When bearings are installed in a bushing pump it is headed for failure, it is only a question of time. Skip who modifies and rebuilds pumps has had numerous pumps sent to him that failed 2 or 3 times and repaired by the rebuilder only to fail again. Small bearings were used in these pumps with the bearing right next to the seal. ALL seals leak and this small amount of coolant lubricates the seal, if the seal runs dry it will burn up in a short period of time. On the later 49 to 53 engines that have bearings the front snout of the pump is longer. This longer length allows the water to be slung off before reaching the face of the seal. This water is super heated from the friction between the seal and seat and the hot water distorts the seal lip allowing water to leak into the bearing. Even with a little water in it the failure may be delayed until a fair amount of rust forms. See attached picture which shows the effect of the water. On the longer bearing assembly made for a 49 to 53 pump you can see what happens close to the seal and as the water is slung off it dry's out. This shaft was from and original pump and still turns like a new bearing. The short shaft bearing wasn't very old and is frozen up tight and don't turn. Bushing type pumps don't have this problem and if the shaft and bushing are properly fitted with the correct clearance they very seldom fail. I wouldn't drive an early type pump with bearing more than 100 miles from home because that's as far a AAA will tow me. G.M.
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05-31-2015, 09:24 AM | #9 |
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Re: Water Pump ID
Interesting GM. I am a believer in not fixing what isn't broke, but have been toying with the idea of pulling the pumps and replacing with another set, then sending what i have off to Skip, as that seems to be the consensus here on what to do with water pumps. that would give me a spare set on the shelf, if needed.
i don't really know what is installed, short of pulling the pump to find out. i am guessing it is a bearing type pump because of the noise that i heard, and the fact that the engine was gone through 2 years ago. not sure how many miles are on the rebuild though. |
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