Wiring / Electrical question - Newbie

[Justa6MB]

Hi, I am working on my Parent's Model A that hasn't ran for a long....time and I need some help on the wiring. I ran some new wiring (don't worry I'll tidy it up once it's working) but I'm not familiar with 6 volt positive ground systems and have some questions. The first thing I couldn't figure out is why when I ground a test light to the engine and put the probe on the coil it always has power whether the key is on or off. This seems wrong to me. Also I replaced the ignition switch, but based on the wiring diagram it doesn't appear to be a basic switch. And there seems to be 2 wires running to the distributor - see picture. Will this work? I have the power from the starter running to the ammeter, then a wire running from the 2nd terminal of the ammeter to the one side of the coil, the generator, and the steering column. Then a wire running from the 2nd side of the coil to the ignition switch, and from the other side of the switch to the wire running to the distributor. And nothing with the hard single wire. Make sense?
Thanks
Darren

[Fred K-OR]

I am a little confused with your situation. Others on this site may be able to help. But what I used to figure out my wiring was Andrews book and other wiring diagrams. You can find these books on any of the parts dealers sites. MAC's parts catalog has a diagram for wiring for example, page 122. Good luck and enjoy the A.

[Kurt in NJ]

The wires you are using to the ammeter--starter--generator don't look to be heavy enough --#10 wire should work, #18 too thin

In a stock A the coil is always "hot", the ignition switch switches the wire from the dist--coil.

If the engine hasn't run for a "long" time it would be best to drop the pan and clean the sludge out before trying to start it

[gunmetal blue]

Does your Model A have cowl lights or not.

[Colorado Greg]

This might help a little

[Tom Wesenberg]

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You have everything right by what you stated. It doesn't sound right the way the switch is wired because that's not the way most cars are wired, but that's the way Ford did it. The switch connects the ground side of the coil to the points. Once you get it running you can buy the correct cloth covered wire from many parts houses for not too much money. It will look much neater and make future trouble shooting easier.

As Kurt said, if the pan hasn't been removed for years, it would be good to check it for sludge. I've found as much as an inch thick crud in some.

[Justa6MB]

Ok thanks for the replys guys. The wiring I've used is 12 ga. So that makes sense with the coil being hot all the time - I wasn't expecting that. Can somebody comment on the hard wire that is with the the soft wire that runs to the distrubutor?I'm pretty sure it doens't have cowl lights? Where would they be?
Thanks Darren

[JBR]

Cowl lights should be on the cowl, or on both sides of the gas tank between the doors and the hood, just below the seam. They should be small lights about 4" in diameter mounted on arms.
Jon

[fordfixer]

In the picture you posted, it looks like you only have one wire, going through the conduit to the distributer. I don't see the other wire your talking about. One wire in the conduit is the correct way for it to be.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by fordfixer

In the picture you posted, it looks like you only have one wire, going through the conduit to the distributer. I don't see the other wire your talking about. One wire in the conduit is the correct way for it to be.

I assumed he meant the solid steel wire which runs inside the small conduit on original popout cables. His picture shows it sticking out next to the modern replacement wire.

[Justa6MB]

Hi guys, sorry for the long time lapse. Yes that solid steel wire was the one I was reffering too. I have got the engine running pretty good. But I do have another question though?? I've noticed that there is a voltage draw or spark on the generator wire. I read about having to short the terminal out to change the polarity. Could this be related? Or is it normal?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Jump a short wire across the two cutout terminals for one second, then start the engine and see if it charges. If still no charge then jump across the same two terminals while it's running at fast idle and see if it charges. If it now charges, then the cutout isn't working. If it still doesn't charge then the generator needs to be repaired.

[29ModelA]

Honestly for the $20 or so plus shipping you could have the correct harnesses and compare to the charts and make everything a piece of cake, and you won't have to change it later. Add another $50 and you can have the lighting harness all new too.

I was trying to wire mine like you, just this last month, and giving in and buying the dash and generator harnesses was the best move I ever made.

This Book http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/2167 Has been the most wonderful thing I have bought being a Model A newbie myself.