Super annoyed: front and rear main seal

[hazelhoff]

My guess would be you don’t really appreciate late 20-ties technology … better buy a Burz engine then …
Henry designed an engine knowing the state of the art of sealing materials at the time. So he left them out !

[Richard Knight]

I am wondering what the O.P. has gotten from this thread. Lots of good info. Two things: the aluminum piece that fits into the block A or B is an "oil retainer". It is not a seal of any kind. Ford never called it a seal. Parts houses seem to use the term seal which is misleading especially to newbies. Another point to be made is the crankcase pressure caused by blow by is the same in the air space and in the oil.

[katy]

If you're going to use plastigage to measure the rear main clearance, w/the engine in the car, you'll need to support the crankshaft (up) so you get a true reading of the clearance.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by katy

If you're going to use plastigage to measure the rear main clearance, w/the engine in the car, you'll need to support the crankshaft (up) so you get a true reading of the clearance.

This makes sense.

Were the crank sitting in a position on the engine stand "up-facing" and no rods attached you would have your best possible reading which is one where gravity works "with" you. Like a reading you could then use to peel off a layer of the rod shims.

I think laying under the engine and removing any crank bearing cap, you want to use the jack (or a porta-power) to push the crank "up" and then apply the plastigage and cap to get the reading.

There is something satisfying about "removing all the slop" as you get the reading. You can't trust that the crank doesn't "sag" or the bearing possibly "non-concentric" which will affect the plastigauge reading.

My first go-around was done with the jack. That engine (red Allstate replacement) had about 70K miles on it (150K total on the car) It's not easy no matter how you do it.

Engine later removed I used the engine-stand and did it while standing next to it - MUCH EASIER. Almost human.

Now I wouldn't bother to try to plastigage an engine in place. Removal is not that difficult and I do now have the tools (overhead gantry) to do it right.

Don't forget to remove the wishbone connection to the transmission - been there done that.

Overhead gantry can be made using two 2x12x8' planks, 4x4 verticals and two more 2x12x4' stringers. Use large washers at the allthread-thru bolts holding it together. Diagonal braces nailed in place will increase your confidence against a lateral failure - and can be easily removed.

Joe K

[GPierce]

Originally Posted by Rusty30roadster

I pulled my engine because I had a horrible rear oil leak. me.

Post #1 First sentence.
Again “ I pulled my engine because I had a horrible rear oil leak”