Search for "oil" brings no hits?!

[BillEbob]

I did a search for oil to learn what you all have decided is the best oil to use in the A -- nothing! Now that I find hard to believe!

I use Valvoline Racing Oil (has zinc) in my Mustangs. Should one use a multi-weight oil, is zinc necessary for Model A valves, or should I use a straight weight oil, possibly without detergents since the A's have no oil filter??

ALSO, it drips oil from the drain plug. Where to replace the brass/copper drain plug washer?

And this is just day 1 in the ownership of n A by newbie! Lol

Bill

[WHN]

We use 20-50 HD oil in our cars. Cars not driven in winter, but it does get hot here in south eastern Connecticut in the summer.

We also add a 16 oz. bottle of STP at oil change. Four quarts of oil and one bottle of STP. Marvel Mystery Oil also used in gas.

We all have are own thing. This has worked for use for many, many, years.

Never overheating, good oil pressure, no valve noise, no smoke, very little oil dripping. It’s just our way. Others have their ideas of what works for them. Enjoy.

[tinkirk]

Originally Posted by BillEbob

I did a search for oil to learn what you all have decided is the best oil to use in the A -- nothing! Now that I find hard to believe!



I use Valvoline Racing Oil (has zinc) in my Mustangs. Should one use a multi-weight oil, is zinc necessary for Model A valves, or should I use a straight weight oil, possibly without detergents since the A's have no oil filter??



ALSO, it drips oil from the drain plug. Where to replace the brass/copper drain plug washer?



And this is just day 1 in the ownership of n A by newbie! Lol



Bill

Bill
You are going to get a lot of different opinions on oil so I will be the first
I use synthetic in every thing i run and will not use conventional oil
I would say use what you would run in any other one of your other cars
If you are using racing oil 15w50 not sure about that but maybe 10w30 or 10w40 sync is not that important in an A

Drain plug gaskets and anything else you may need can be had my numerous vendors i use Snyder's
Just do a search for model a parts vendors and use your judgement there are some that might have better parts or pricing than others
Hope this helps
Terry



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1930-Pickup]

This will help with some insight into the question.

"CHOOSING THE RIGHT OIL FOR YOUR MODEL A ENGINE"
By: Andy Wiedeman and Wayne Russert
Members of the Rocky Mountain Model A Club
March 2012 Rev. C

http://rmaford.org/wp-content/blogs....C_Mar_2012.pdf

[Karl]

Doesn't matter what you use really its all better than what they had in the day. Most of use something around 30wt perhaps 10-30W or 20-50W- Every five hundred to a thousand miles I pull the drain plug on mine, dump the old oil and replace it with new oil - For this reason I don't use synthetics as its easier on the pocket not to. The 500 miles oil change was what was in the owners book in the day. With modern oils its probably overkill but the insides of my engine are as clean as a whistle and I use my car lots putting on at least 10,000 trouble free miles per year for the last 5 years.

[cpf240]

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Originally Posted by BillEbob

I did a search for oil to learn what you all have decided is the best oil to use in the A -- nothing! Now that I find hard to believe!...

Bill

Often times search engines want more than 3 letters to search for. Too many hits, probably mostly not what the person was looking for, otherwise.

[BillEbob]

HD, huh? I was SURE that you, in the know, were going to recommend NOT to use a high detergent oil. Guessed it would get 'foamy' and reduce oiling.

Okay, so live and learn!

Yes, I too use Marvel in the gas tanks of the Mustangs as well as STP in the crankcase!

[J Franklin]

The search engine was protecting you!

[mike657894]

low rpm so the oil doesnt have to work too hard so type isnt that important. no filter so it gets dirty quicker. so do more changes. Ive been using 15 40 diesel type.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by cpf240

Often times search engines want more than 3 letters to search for. Too many hits, probably mostly not what the person was looking for, otherwise.

What you say is apparently true. You can't find VIN, DMV or YOM>

Charlie Stephens

[updraught]

Google "www.fordbarn.com engine oil"

hours of fun

[40 Deluxe]

No need to listen to the rumormongers on the 'zinc' thing. Any oil today still has plenty of the zinc additive for a Model A, more than oil of the '30's.

[Big hammer]

Racing oil for mustangs? Isn't that cruelty to animals :-)
Wecome to the model "A" hobby! Any oil, change often, enjoy your "A"!

[Dan Partain]

If you want to search for DMV, YOM, VIN, just put an asterisk (some call it a star) on both ends of the term - *DMV* or *YOM*. You will find maybe more than you wanted, especially with VIN since you will get VINtage, VINyl, etc.
Happy Searching!
-DAN

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

What you say is apparently true. You can't find VIN, DMV or YOM>

Charlie Stephens

Originally Posted by BillEbob

I did a search for oil to learn what you all have decided is the best oil to use in the A -- nothing! Now that I find hard to believe!

Anything less than 4 letters and the search will return nothing.

[Jacksonlll]

Use anything you want, but change it every 500 mi, unless on a long trip. Just keep clean oil in there and the engine will be happy.

[Terry, NJ]

About once a month this subject comes up. The answer is every thing! I know of no stories of someone ruining a Mod. A engine because of using the "wrong" oil! Since a Mod A's oil does not stay in the engine very long. It was originally changed a 500 mile, but with today's better better oils, most change at 1000 miles. Most use a multi weight oil, 15-40 Shell, Rotella is preferred. Some prefer to stick to single weight like sae 30. Today the old argument about "Detergent" oil Vs "Non detergent" oils has evolved into Synthetic Vs non synthetic! But for now, I use the Shell Rotella available at Tractor Supply in 2 1/2 gal containers. But what ever oil you use, add some STP to it. For cars parked for a while it protects the cam, cyl. walls and other parts from from moisture. If this forms a thin coat of Iron oxide, It will be scraped off and contaminate the engine. These surfaces must be protected! The STP will protect longer than just the oil alone.
Terry

[1930-Pickup]

So many opinions, but the only facts are shown in the link on post #4 above. Requires reading though.

[Jeff/Illinois]

ZDDP additive in our '69 Mach 1 with 10.5:1 compression

Nothing added to the Model A or '36 Flathead and all is fine.

Been running Motorcraft 5W-30 in the Flathead, changed it the other day during winterizing the vehicle. Oil came out looking very good after about a thousand miles, no evidence of sludge in the pan, and this motor was kinda dirty when I got it she is running clean now after several oil changes with detergent oil

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

About once a month this subject comes up. The answer is every thing! I know of no stories of someone ruining a Mod. A engine because of using the "wrong" oil! Since a Mod A's oil does not stay in the engine very long. It was originally changed a 500 mile, but with today's better better oils, most change at 1000 miles. Most use a multi weight oil, 15-40 Shell, Rotella is preferred. Some prefer to stick to single weight like sae 30. Today the old argument about "Detergent" oil Vs "Non detergent" oils has evolved into Synthetic Vs non synthetic! But for now, I use the Shell Rotella available at Tractor Supply in 2 1/2 gal containers. But what ever oil you use, add some STP to it. For cars parked for a while it protects the cam, cyl. walls and other parts from from moisture. If this forms a thin coat of Iron oxide, It will be scraped off and contaminate the engine. These surfaces must be protected! The STP will protect longer than just the oil alone.
Terry

X2 I buy my 15W40 Shell Rotella 2-1/2 gallon jug from Walmart because they are a few miles away, Tractor Supply is 40 miles away. Same with the STP or Lucas oil stabilizer both have zinc. I go 1000 miles on a routine oil change.

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Terry, NJ

But what ever oil you use, add some STP to it. For cars parked for a while it protects the cam, cyl. walls and other parts from from moisture. If this forms a thin coat of Iron oxide, It will be scraped off and contaminate the engine. These surfaces must be protected! The STP will protect longer than just the oil alone.
Terry

That's a plan, I spray fogging oil in each cylinder in the fall, and turn the motors over by hand once every few weeks or so thru the winter that has worked good for me.

IF someday I can finagle a place in the country with a long lane away from IDOT road salt, I'll just start the cars and run them up and down the lane to keep things limber. Running the car regularly is probably the best way to preserve them. Like the guys in the Deep South and So. Calif. do

[Sunnybrook Farm]

When I started running A's 45 years ago the debate was HD or plain 30 wt. I have been confused about the whole thing over the years but the info on this posting has cleared things up some, at least for a while until something new comes out. I have a rebuilt motor that I will be starting so my question is what to put in the fresh motor? I have read that you want a little friction during the break in period until the cylinder walls smooth out some.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

IF someday I can finagle a place in the country with a long lane away from IDOT road salt, I'll just start the cars and run them up and down the lane to keep things limber. Running the car regularly is probably the best way to preserve them. Like the guys in the Deep South and So. Calif. do

Why not just put it up on jack stands and run it?

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Sunnybrook Farm

When I started running A's 45 years ago the debate was HD or plain 30 wt. I have been confused about the whole thing over the years but the info on this posting has cleared things up some, at least for a while until something new comes out. I have a rebuilt motor that I will be starting so my question is what to put in the fresh motor? I have read that you want a little friction during the break in period until the cylinder walls smooth out some.

Put in what your rebuilder recommends. I had a short block built from AER and they recommend 5W-30 or 10W-30.

[Crankster]

Many website forums for whatever reason have search engines that don't work very well. Even google has gone from "most relevant" to "most $$$", and eBay lost the plot completely, they just throw anything in there at all.

Google "oil site://www.fordbarn.com" and it will provide what you're looking for.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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The Dog sez, Synthetic Oils are MADE to be a LUBRICANT, gummy, gooey Crude Oil is UNMADE, to be a LUBRICANT"!
Dogs' Dad

[tinkirk]

Just don't put synthetic in a newly rebuilt motor
Break it in with conventional oil with lucas break in lubricant for the first couple hundred miles then put in what ever you want and enjoy it


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[Ron in Quincy]

I have been using Castrol GTX SAE 20W-50 for over 35 years; I do not use STP in my oil as it ends up in the bottom of the pan. Both of my "A's" have full flow oil filters.

I use straight STP in my transmissions, the cluster gear moves the STP up to the other gears; I also put one pint of STP in the differential and the balance of 90W gear oil, the ring gear moves the STP up to the other parts of the differential.

When the Model "A" came out there was no lead in the fuel, it was later in the 30's the lead was added to the fuel; I have run my "A's" on the 87 octane gas available here in California with what some call "CRAP" gas, I do not add anything to the gas and have had no problems with either engine.

Just my opinion, others my disagree,

Ron

[BillEbob]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

ZDDP additive in our '69 Mach 1 with 10.5:1 compression

Nothing added to the Model A or '36 Flathead and all is fine.

Been running Motorcraft 5W-30 in the Flathead, changed it the other day during winterizing the vehicle. Oil came out looking very good after about a thousand miles, no evidence of sludge in the pan, and this motor was kinda dirty when I got it she is running clean now after several oil changes with detergent oil

Instead of adding ZDDP to my '69 Mustang oil, I instead, use Valvoline Racing Oil which already contains the zinc.

From what I have already learned about A's is that their valves don't require the zinc since apparently the mineral oil that they were designed to run on didn't contain zinc.

Re: STP That product sure does produce a lot of discussion on both sides of the issue! People either love it or hate it, there never seems to be anyone in the middle! 😂

[Crankster]

I always associated it with high mileage smog engines in the 70s, something someone would add to the crankcase on a long neglected beater they wanted to keep on the road. It gives mollasses in January a bad name! Bought a can (comes in a plastic bottle now, natch) to use in a manual steering box, it's unbelievable how thick and sticky that stuff is. Couldn't pay me to put that in a motor!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Jeff/Illinois

That's a plan, I spray fogging oil in each cylinder in the fall, and turn the motors over by hand once every few weeks or so thru the winter that has worked good for me.

IF someday I can finagle a place in the country with a long lane away from IDOT road salt, I'll just start the cars and run them up and down the lane to keep things limber. Running the car regularly is probably the best way to preserve them. Like the guys in the Deep South and So. Calif. do

Jeff, you forgot the "I" after the "D".

[Terry, NJ]

Ken M. was straight out of central casting for a aircraft mechanic cum manager of an aircraft business. He didn't teach me every thing I know, but most of what I know about Aircraft. Over the years, he had developed this method of breaking in Lycoming and Continental AC engines. For the first ten hours, use Mineral oil then dump it. Then we went to 40 wt oil for twenty hours Then it was to the oil we would use, 20/50 Aeroshell. The purpose of this was to break in the engine and seat the rings. The next change was at 50 hours When the engine was was run, it was run at operating speed or about 2800 rpm. Getting the "Crappy" oil out of the engine was important, not for the dirt, but because of the micro particles of iron etc. During it's life, it was important to have an oil analysis. We took our samples at mid flow between removing the oil plug and the final drips, in short it was an average look at what's in the oil. Occasionally it would come back , Next Change at 25 hours! This was NOT welcome news to the owner! It meant your engine was coming apart and the end was in sight. Start saving for your new power plant! I don't know how much of this is transferrable to cars, but most of it has worked well for me.
Terry

Originally Posted by Sunnybrook Farm

When I started running A's 45 years ago the debate was HD or plain 30 wt. I have been confused about the whole thing over the years but the info on this posting has cleared things up some, at least for a while until something new comes out. I have a rebuilt motor that I will be starting so my question is what to put in the fresh motor? I have read that you want a little friction during the break in period until the cylinder walls smooth out some.

[Terry, NJ]

Fifty years ago, there were a lot of people who believed a lot of things that weren't true. For instance, how many have have heard the myth that you had rev a cold engine to get the gas (and oil?) up. Evidently in the old days, when Vacuum fuel pumps were used, revving the engine built up the vacuum, or something??? Oil! Oil is a special case! Myth #1, Oil doesn't wear out! Ya don't need to change it! Myth #2, Oil changes are just a sales tool The big oil companies just want to sell you more oil. Keys in with Myth #1. So where did sludge come from?
The best anti pollution device that the manufacturers ever came up with was the PCV. Those cars with crankcase vent tubes put as much smog onto the roads as the exhaust. Furthermore, they dripped oil. They dripped at intersections with traffic lights and caused some very dangerous conditions at traffic lights. The marine engine had used them with "Spark Arrestors" since the 1920s on inboard marine engines. Boats cannot afford to have fumes accumulate in engine compartments. Why weren't they used on cars too?
Terry

Originally Posted by Crankster

I always associated it with high mileage smog engines in the 70s, something someone would add to the crankcase on a long neglected beater they wanted to keep on the road. It gives mollasses in January a bad name! Bought a can (comes in a plastic bottle now, natch) to use in a manual steering box, it's unbelievable how thick and sticky that stuff is. Couldn't pay me to put that in a motor!

[leo]

It appears that the consensus from that study of oils for the Model A Ford casts some doubt about the use of diesel oils like Shell Rotella. And yet there are many of you Model A owners that swear by it. So once again we have differences of opinion and studies which contradict what people using the product have to report about it. I don't know about you but my head is about to explode trying to determine who to believe.....

[JD 1931]

20w x 50w Walmart supertect

[40 Deluxe]

All this obsessing over what oil to use is rather humorous! Why not worry over what color valve stem cap to use on the left rear tire? That's about as productive!

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Jeff, you forgot the "I" after the "D".

Ya got dat right brudder!! Friday nite it got all the way 'down' to 35 degrees and the ID(I)OT trucks were already out spraying road salt liquid stuff all over. Geez it hasn't even snowed here yet in NW Illinois.

Dennis, jack stands WOULD work but it would be better I suppose if I just moved out to the land of sunshine and forget about it It would be my luck for Heinz Werner (my stands) to give up the ghost, collapse, and send the 'A' catapulting thru the end of the garage.

Anyone ever have that happen, or know someone who it did happen too??

[V4F]

20/50 VR-1 Valvoline !