Moroso Ceramic Sealer

[Shoebox]

Just wondering if anyone has used Moroso's Ceramic Block Sealer in a new engine build. I believe H&H uses it in the engines they build. I am getting ahead of myself, engine won't be going into car for a bit, just wanted to put the question out there.


Thanks guys!

[Gene1949]

pardon my facetiousness
Friend of mine put something similar in his 409. In 300 miles about the only thing salvageable was the fan belts

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by Gene1949

pardon my facetiousness
Friend of mine put something similar in his 409. In 300 miles about the only thing salvageable was the fan belts

Perhaps some details would be appropriate?

[Gene1949]

sure
OP was chasing milky oil internal water leak. Used a ceramic type sealer that got into the oil and distroyed the engine
The old school aluminium sealer might have been a better choice.
If I were to build an unknown flatty I would spend the money to pressure test it.

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by Gene1949

sure
OP was chasing milky oil internal water leak. Used a ceramic type sealer that got into the oil and distroyed the engine
The old school aluminium sealer might have been a better choice.
If I were to build an unknown flatty I would spend the money to pressure test it.

The old school " Aluminum sealer" was what?

[cadillac512]

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It's a powdered/flaked aluminum dry powder you put in the radiator.

[Bored&Stroked]

I've used the Moroso ceramic sealer - as a precaution when building an engine with a pinned crack in the transfer area and a sleeve put in. I run the engine up on the test stand (with a radiator, fan, etc) with the sealer (as instructed) - with just pure water. Also, it will usually "fix" any small 'stud leaks' - so you get this benefit as well.

If you're using it on an existing engine, you'll need to flush the cooling system of all anti-freeze and clean it with pure water (and drain it) a few times before you use the Moroso product.

[Shoebox]

Thanks Dale for your response. This would be a fresh build, new 4 row radiator and just pure water. About how much run time on the stand?

[tinkirk]

Cerimic seal works great just follow the instructions and you won’t have any problems
Used to use on the race motors i build because of head stud leakage
Amazing stuff if used correctly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1948F-1Pickup]

Originally Posted by Shoebox

Just wondering if anyone has used Moroso's Ceramic Block Sealer in a new engine build. I believe H&H uses it in the engines they build. I am getting ahead of myself, engine won't be going into car for a bit, just wanted to put the question out there.


Thanks guys!

I have an H&H engine. Don't know if they use the Moroso product. They do use a ceramic block sealer. I believe they sonic test as well, beforehand.

[Ronnieroadster]

If you look on line and read up about a product called Water Glass. You will discover this is part of the contents of what most over the counter block sealers contain. Water Glass is actually ligiid Sodium Silicate which is used in a lot of industries for many applications one of which is head gasket leaks and sealing cracks in engine blocks.

There's an interesting story on line about a leaking condenser cooling system on a Navy nuclear sub during sea trials in Alaska. To seal the leak the sub stops in a port in Alaska and the crew goes to a local drug store where they purchased water glass, Since water glass is used a as food preservative it was easy to get at the drug store. The water glass sealed the leak in the sub and the trials continued.

When mixed with straight water solidum silicate sets up at 140 degrees to a solid glass like material plugging any areas where the water mixture can leak into. Thus the words used with some sealers Ceramic.

To seal blocks I always use sodium silicate which I purchase in a gallon container size. I then mix it with water as needed. The price for this gallon is usually about what the price is of some of big name head gasket/block sealers sold over the counter. To seal a block I will use from 8 to 16 ounces of the sodium silicate with water filling the cooling system.

The over the counter block sealers in their container contain sodium silicate that's diluted with water with some coloring added. They do not contain straight sodium silicate in effect you pay a lot of money for just a few ounces of sodium silicate.
Ronnieroadster

[Tim Ayers]

*** Ronnie beat me to it. Sodium Silicate or water glass is another option. I used it to stop head stud weeping. Worked well. It was fairly cheap and I bought "pharmaceutical" grade stuff (whatever that means) off of Amazon.

[GB SISSON]

I was advised by folks here on the Barn to use a ceramic sealer I recall had a name like K&N. I had just discovered a fresh looking pin and sleeve repair on a recent 59ab purchase. The directions on the can said to pull the spark plug from an affected cylinder and run that way after the flush and adding their product. That made a lot of sense to me as the compression and the explosion could impede the penetration into the crack. Oil is crystal clear and no steam now.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I was advised by folks here on the Barn to use a ceramic sealer I recall had a name like K&N. I had just discovered a fresh looking pin and sleeve repair on a recent 59ab purchase. The directions on the can said to pull the spark plug from an affected cylinder and run that way after the flush and adding their product. That made a lot of sense to me as the compression and the explosion could impede the penetration into the crack. Oil is crystal clear and no steam now.

This is a pretty good idea if one has a suspect cylinder. One thing to note is that this stuff isn't a "fix all". If you have a blown head-gasket, I recommend you change the darn thing (that isn't a huge deal) - don't think it will magically fix (and last) with ceramic seal.

I know, I know - somebody here has a great "success" story with a badly blown head-gasket, just like somebody else put banana peels and sawdust into their banjo to "fix it" Remember, not that many folks like to share their self-induced "horror" stories . . .

[Shoebox]

Hey guys,
Thanks for all the follow up information!

[Newc]

Local member had leaking sleeves and 'water glass' couldn't handle the leak , tooo big a volumn. Newc

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Newc

Local member had leaking sleeves and 'water glass' couldn't handle the leak , tooo big a volumn. Newc

Sadly time for another block

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by Newc

Local member had leaking sleeves and 'water glass' couldn't handle the leak , tooo big a volumn. Newc

Depending on the number of sleeves and the thickness of them, the block may be able to be salvaged (re-sleeved). BUT, if it has a lot of sleeves in it, I'd run from it.

[Dodge]

Just about the time my daughters Mazda blew a head gasket we got a notice from the
state offering $1,000 for older cars to get them off the road for smog reasons. The cars had to be driven into the collection center. I got a bottle of the Moroso ceramic sealer and followed the instruction to a T.
After draining it out I let it sit for about a week to let it get good and dry.
I filled it up with water and no more steam.
It worked long enough to get the $1,000
(I towed it to within a block of the center) So I guess it did work on a head gasket.

[Gene1949]

All I'm saying is be careful of the application.
Sealing a combustion chamber leak or an external such as a head bolt seep probably a good choice.
BUTT, I would NOT use it where it could contaminate the lube oil. THAT is how my friend lost his 409.