37 221 valve stem length too long? Help.

[Mark's 37]

I started to mock up the valve train this morning. The valves are too long to use (significantly). I have a stock grind 37 camshaft, Johnson style adjustable lifters and the valves are SBC style. The length of the valve is 4.916" and the adjuster will not thread down far enough to set the lash. The adjuster bolt on the lifter is bottomed out. It seems I will need to have the valve stems ground to make the fit. Can this be done or what are the other options?

[flatheadmurre]

1. are your valve seats ground to far down into the block ?
2. SBC valves are longer then stock from start.
3. Just grind of what you need if the valveseats are ok in height.

[Mart]

Get some Ford valves?

Turn the ends of the stems on a lathe. They are tough but I have done it. The adjustables will not want to lock if wound right down. the locking part wants to be in the middle of the range of adjustment. They also do not want to be wound in and out too much, they can loosen if moved too often.

The longer Chevy valves are often used with reground cams due to the reduced base circle diameter.

Mart.

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

1. are your valve seats ground to far down into the block ?
2. SBC valves are longer then stock from start.
3. Just grind of what you need if the valveseats are ok in height.

What is the way to measure the seat depth in the block and what would be the specification? They don't look sunken to my eye but need to be measured some how. Thanks.

[scooder]

My mate Mart got it, use Ford valves!
The sbc "style" ones you have are just sbc valves, you got a stock cam so stock valves will fit without farting about. As the valves you have now will also need the springs shiming to correct the installed length/spring pressure.
Just use stock 8BA valves with the guides you have. Simple and no farting about.
Martin.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

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Yea, that's typical with a stock cam and Chevy valves, we use Chevy valves with performance valves where the heel is ground down. You've got 11/32 stem and 8BA guides so use stock 8BA valves, You'll be pretty close and you won't have to turn the lifters to much. Walt

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

We were typing the same time Scotter, you type faster. Walt

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by scooder

My mate Mart got it, use Ford valves!
The sbc "style" ones you have are just sbc valves, you got a stock cam so stock valves will fit without farting about. As the valves you have now will also need the springs shiming to correct the installed length/spring pressure.
Just use stock 8BA valves with the guides you have. Simple and no farting about.
Martin.

Yep....this engine set up came with the longer valves and shims as a set. Long story and I didn't buy them. Really don't want to trash these valves but that seems like the simplest choice. The cost but having a machine shop grind the valve stems will cost something. The engine came with a used set of solid stock style lifters and I installed one to check. Too long, the same as the adjustables. Does someone have a spec for the stock valve length?

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by scooder

My mate Mart got it, use Ford valves!
The sbc "style" ones you have are just sbc valves, you got a stock cam so stock valves will fit without farting about. As the valves you have now will also need the springs shiming to correct the installed length/spring pressure.
Just use stock 8BA valves with the guides you have. Simple and no farting about.
Martin.

Yep....this engine set up came with the longer valves and shims as a set. Long story and I didn't buy them. Really don't want to trash these valves but that seems like the simplest choice. Having a machine shop grind the valve stems will cost something. The engine came with a used set of solid stock style lifters and I installed one to check. Too long, the same as the adjustables. Does someone have a spec for the stock valve length?

[Mark's 37]

And....my seat are all ground at 45 degrees. Where is a good source of stock valves with that seat angle? C and G list valves but no spec on the angle.

[flatheadmurre]

Originally Posted by Mark's 37

And....my seat are all ground at 45 degrees. Where is a good source of stock valves with that seat angle? C and G list valves but no spec on the angle.

Any "stock" valve would have 45 on intake and exhaust.

[Mark's 37]

Just ordered a set from C and G. Grrrr....trying to keep a positive attitude with this build. Thanks.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

All 8BA valves are 11/32 stem and 1.500 head and 45* angel, I'm building a 37 engine right now, using the 49-50 valves, 49-53 lifters 1.720 length. (The 49-53 Merc lifters are 1.750 length witch helps some with a reground cam). Check your valve spring install height, You should be pretty close, Walt You'll have to check around to get best price on valves, probably around 10 bucks each.

[GOSFAST]

For almost all applications we recommend against ever using the Chevy valves, they create more issues than they solve.

The OEM length Flathead valves can be made to work even if they need to be lengthened slightly due to a "small-base" cam! (See the P.S. below)

The longer valves create spring pressure issues, "shimming" issues (due to the limited "register" height on the guides), and most times as above are a difficult build. Many times you'll also end up needing some .050" shorter valve locks, just one big headache in the end.

(Add) A set of (16) OEM (stainless) valves should be in the area of 120.00/130.00, give or take a "buck-or-two"??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. If you use the correct length valves and MUST have some add'l length simply use some lash-caps. This adds .080" to the O/A valve lengths and does NOT have any effect on the spring "shimming". It is a "win-win" situation all around. The photo explains the process.

[Mark's 37]

Originally Posted by GOSFAST

For almost all applications we recommend against ever using the Chevy valves, they create more issues than they solve.

The OEM length Flathead valves can be made to work even if they need to be lengthened slightly due to a "small-base" cam! (See the P.S. below)

The longer valves create spring pressure issues, "shimming" issues (due to the limited "register" height on the guides), and most times as above are a difficult build. Many times you'll also end up needing some .050" shorter valve locks, just one big headache in the end.

(Add) A set of (16) OEM (stainless) valves should be in the area of 120.00/130.00, give or take a "buck-or-two"??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.


P.S. If you use the correct length valves and MUST have some add'l length simply use some lash-caps. This adds .080" to the O/A valve lengths and does NOT have any effect on the spring "shimming". It is a "win-win" situation all around. The photo explains the process.

Thanks. Hopefully lash caps if needed will finish this part of the build.