The Ford Barn

burnside42 · 12-14-2016, 10:29 PM

I will be installing a new top on the 1930 coupe (45B) that I am restoring. The original moldings were aluminum and are known as F3 for the front and R3 for the sides & rear. They are available as a straight piece for F3 and in coiled form for the R3 style. I have been told that they would be difficult to shape and fit. I'm especially concerned about making the 90 degree bends at the rear corners. An easier option would be to use the "welt-on wire" type but that is not as original. I would like to hear some opinions (based on experience) about the ease or difficulty of working with the original style moldings. Thanks in advance for any comments

Henry1953 · 12-15-2016, 02:55 AM

I used the welt on wire type and it looks good to me and has held up well. When I restored my top the aluminum mouldings were not available. I tried reusing the original but was never happy with the way it looked. I bought the aluminum mouldings but never installed them for the same reason you stated and the other type looks good anyway.

Hope this helps you decide.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 12-15-2016, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnside42

I will be installing a new top on the 1930 coupe (45B) that I am restoring. The original moldings were aluminum and are known as F3 for the front and R3 for the sides & rear. They are available as a straight piece for F3 and in coiled form for the R3 style. I have been told that they would be difficult to shape and fit. I'm especially concerned about making the 90 degree bends at the rear corners. An easier option would be to use the "welt-on wire" type but that is not as original. I would like to hear some opinions (based on experience) about the ease or difficulty of working with the original style moldings. Thanks in advance for any comments

Welcome to Fordbarn!

Your opening comment indicates you are restoring a Model-A Coupe. If you are restoring, then my opinion is this means you are trying to replicate it as it originally was. If this is so, then by all mean at least try to use a facsimile of something that it had originally. Order the mouldings and at least try them first. We have installed more than a few over the years, and IMHO they are not overly difficult to do.

gweilbaker · 12-15-2016, 07:00 AM

I use plywood forms fashioned from card stock patterns referenced to the car. This forms the major radii, then contours are fitted by gentle bending the flat of the molding. Get an extra set to practice.

motordr · 12-15-2016, 08:51 AM

I just did this on my 30 coupe last week. I designed a bender based on a scaled up version of a Ridgid tube bender. One large plank, one round wood disc with a radius matching the rear corner. Turned it on my lathe with a step or shoulder to keep the moulding flat. One 3/8" bolt and a piece of angle iron for the bending arm. I attached a piece of nylon for the shoe that contacts and slides along the moulding.
It worked out great, on the rear/side moulding,you only have about 2" of length to spare. I managed to make it out of one piece with correct centre to centre distance, but no reason why two pieces would not be acceptable.
For me the hardest part was getting the moulding closed evenly. I used #4-5/8" flathead screws instead of nails. The heads are a little too big, #3 screws are what is needed.
Oh, very important, I put three 1/16" aluminum flat bar strips in the groove (3/16" width x 1/4" high x 12" long) to prevent the groove from collapsing.
I bought the hidem welt as a back up, but didn't need it.
Good luck! Ted

leo · 12-15-2016, 06:20 PM

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When I did my coupe the front piece across the header was the easiest to do. With both pieces (front and back) I drilled holes and nailed them in place as I went along. I know it sounds rather unorthodox but I found that nailing the aluminum in place made it easy to bend just a little at a time without causing it to crease or warp.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 12-16-2016, 08:34 AM

Personally, I'd just use Hide-Um-Welt, always looks GOOD.
Vermin has NO rain gutters, only Hide-Um-Welt, looks GOOD & NOBODY even notices it.
Bill Simple

Terry Burtz, Calif · 12-16-2016, 01:49 PM

Use your original moldings as a guide and take pictures.
The new aluminum moldings are 6063, "O" temper which is very soft.
Install the front molding first (See the Dec 1930 service Bulletins where the same molding is being installed on a Victoria).
On a coupe, the side and rear molding is one piece.
Either pre-form it or bend it as you install it per the instructions given by others.
The side moldings need to be relieved on their underside so that they overlap the front molding by about 3/16 in.
Original sealant was like asphalt based wet patch cement.

12-14-2016, 10:29 PM	#1
burnside42 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Winfield, IL Posts: 3	Top Molding Options I will be installing a new top on the 1930 coupe (45B) that I am restoring. The original moldings were aluminum and are known as F3 for the front and R3 for the sides & rear. They are available as a straight piece for F3 and in coiled form for the R3 style. I have been told that they would be difficult to shape and fit. I'm especially concerned about making the 90 degree bends at the rear corners. An easier option would be to use the "welt-on wire" type but that is not as original. I would like to hear some opinions (based on experience) about the ease or difficulty of working with the original style moldings. Thanks in advance for any comments

12-15-2016, 02:55 AM	#2
Henry1953 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Laurel, MS Posts: 126	Re: Top Molding Options I used the welt on wire type and it looks good to me and has held up well. When I restored my top the aluminum mouldings were not available. I tried reusing the original but was never happy with the way it looked. I bought the aluminum mouldings but never installed them for the same reason you stated and the other type looks good anyway. Hope this helps you decide.

12-15-2016, 08:51 AM	#5
motordr Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Beamsville,Ontario,Canada Posts: 482	Re: Top Molding Options I just did this on my 30 coupe last week. I designed a bender based on a scaled up version of a Ridgid tube bender. One large plank, one round wood disc with a radius matching the rear corner. Turned it on my lathe with a step or shoulder to keep the moulding flat. One 3/8" bolt and a piece of angle iron for the bending arm. I attached a piece of nylon for the shoe that contacts and slides along the moulding. It worked out great, on the rear/side moulding,you only have about 2" of length to spare. I managed to make it out of one piece with correct centre to centre distance, but no reason why two pieces would not be acceptable. For me the hardest part was getting the moulding closed evenly. I used #4-5/8" flathead screws instead of nails. The heads are a little too big, #3 screws are what is needed. Oh, very important, I put three 1/16" aluminum flat bar strips in the groove (3/16" width x 1/4" high x 12" long) to prevent the groove from collapsing. I bought the hidem welt as a back up, but didn't need it. Good luck! Ted

12-15-2016, 06:20 PM	#6
leo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 734	Re: Top Molding Options Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) When I did my coupe the front piece across the header was the easiest to do. With both pieces (front and back) I drilled holes and nailed them in place as I went along. I know it sounds rather unorthodox but I found that nailing the aluminum in place made it easy to bend just a little at a time without causing it to crease or warp.

12-16-2016, 08:34 AM	#7
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Top Molding Options Personally, I'd just use Hide-Um-Welt, always looks GOOD. Vermin has NO rain gutters, only Hide-Um-Welt, looks GOOD & NOBODY even notices it. Bill Simple __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

12-15-2016, 07:00 AM	#4
gweilbaker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lindenhurst, IL Posts: 792	Re: Top Molding Options I use plywood forms fashioned from card stock patterns referenced to the car. This forms the major radii, then contours are fitted by gentle bending the flat of the molding. Get an extra set to practice.

12-16-2016, 01:49 PM	#8
Terry Burtz, Calif Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Campbell,CA, USA Posts: 319	Re: Top Molding Options Use your original moldings as a guide and take pictures. The new aluminum moldings are 6063, "O" temper which is very soft. Install the front molding first (See the Dec 1930 service Bulletins where the same molding is being installed on a Victoria). On a coupe, the side and rear molding is one piece. Either pre-form it or bend it as you install it per the instructions given by others. The side moldings need to be relieved on their underside so that they overlap the front molding by about 3/16 in. Original sealant was like asphalt based wet patch cement.