Rebuilding my Flathead random questions

[kurt v]

make sure your rods clear the bottom of the cyls , you will know as you put the pistons in may have to relieve the cyl a bit, mine being bored to standard left a small ridge at the top, a tight compressor let the rings clear the ridge.

good luck kurt

[busmania]

Next question

The book says the measurement between rear crank bearing and crank should be .0015 max. I’m at .003. Am I screwed? How do I fix?

0230709F-B5C1-45D8-BDF3-73AA068DD1EE.jpg

[38 coupe]

Are you measuring end play? If yes, you need more than 0.0015, that dimension is for bearing ID to crankshaft OD.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by busmania

Next question

The book says the measurement between rear crank bearing and crank should be .0015 max. I’m at .003. Am I screwed? How do I fix?

Attachment 523060

.003" end play on that thrust bearing is perfect. Sure the book doesn't say .015 max?



Terry

[Bored&Stroked]

I like the end-play to be about .004 to .008. If you're down around the low-end, you should be good.

You should check it with a dial indicator and magnetic mount. Then move the crank back/forth with a big screw-driver between a counterweight and the block (gently!) and see how much end-play the indicator shows you.

[busmania]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

I like theend-play to be about .004 to .008. If you're down around the low-end, you should be good.

You should check it with a dial indicator and magnetic mount. Then move the crank back/forth with a big screw-driver between a counterweight and the block (gently!) and see how much end-play the indicator shows you.

I’ll measure that way once installed in block too. This is just the pre measure. Referenced here. It says it should be between 0.001-0.0015 inch.

0A890DDE-528F-4A86-B225-5142CF0DBEC9.jpg

[busmania]

Sunday morning questions.

First up, gear that goes on the crank that spins with the cam, any tricks to getting it on? Do I need to heat it up or just coerce it with a hammer? I started tapping with a hammer but didn’t want to get too agressive before I consulted. The book just says “install the gear” essentially.

Second, what is this piece in the photo? Need to know before I go much further so I don’t have to back track.

B97A0FD5-B492-42DC-99B7-A2D0B10FDA05.jpg

95A9348E-BB07-461C-BC46-CCEF4E9EDA7C.jpg


Third, what about this hole in the rear crank bearing cap? It’s threaded. Nothing in my box of parts looks like it should fit. Red marker pointing to hole in photo.

B75EB8EE-6262-4D0D-87A3-522815C5422F.jpg

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by busmania

Sunday morning questions.

First up, gear that goes on the crank that spins with the cam, any tricks to getting it on? Do I need to heat it up or just coerce it with a hammer? I started tapping with a hammer but didn’t want to get too agressive before I consulted. The book just says “install the gear” essentially.

Second, what is this piece in the photo? Need to know before I go much further so I don’t have to back track.

Attachment 523081

Attachment 523082


Third, what about this hole in the rear crank bearing cap? It’s threaded. Nothing in my box of parts looks like it should fit. Red marker pointing to hole in photo.

Attachment 523080

Top piece is the oil control groove sleeve that goes on after the the pulley is installed. I've never had a crank that didn't have this on it, so I'll defer to others on how to install.

The second pict, there is an approx. 3" tube was a spoon/mouth on the end that inserts in there. I'll try to take a picture of what it looks like on a cap. May not be until tomorrow.

[busmania]

Looking back at my old sludgy tear down photos, there appears to have been nothing screwed into the hole on the main cap.

E2005384-53A6-4D61-849E-773580CAFFB8.jpg

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by busmania

Looking back at my old sludgy tear down photos, there appears to have been nothing screwed into the hole on the main cap.

Attachment 523099

They often get knocked out or damaged in storage. It's a fragile metal tube.

I have multiple rear caps without them. Stock and as is from the factory, they had them.

I'll defer to others if it is needed.

[busmania]

Yep, if it’s supposed to be there I prefer it to be there! Anyone got the tube for sale?

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by busmania

I’ll measure that way once installed in block too. This is just the pre measure. Referenced here. It says it should be between 0.001-0.0015 inch.

Attachment 523074

.001 - .0015 is way too small for end clearance. Minimum .003. I always shoot for .004 - .008 also.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by busmania

Looking back at my old sludgy tear down photos, there appears to have been nothing screwed into the hole on the main cap.

Attachment 523099

Is there any way you could post that "tube photo" on your '40 block bearing cap to make it larger and clearer? My eyes can't discern what's being shown. Thanks.
I wonder what the function of that tube is?

[flatjack9]

There is also a slinger that goes between that sleeve and the crank gear.

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by busmania

Looking back at my old sludgy tear down photos, there appears to have been nothing screwed into the hole on the main cap.

I think that the oil drain tube off the rear main cap was discontinued on passenger car engines back around 1936 or 37. Contact barnfind08 if you want one, send him an e-mail at [email protected].

[Ol' Ron]

I've used this conversion, and it works quite well
Granps

[Mart]

My understanding:

The sleeve shown is sometimes part of the front pulley, sometimes a separate piece. Check your pulley is compatible. As stated, don't forget to put the slinger on first.

Again, as stated, Ford discontinued the small tube on the rear main cap. Don't worry about it.

Mart

[Bored&Stroked]

On the spiral wound slinger. Some 49-53 crankshafts used a pulley where the seal surface was an integral part of the pulley - like the earlier engines had. Others, used this little sleeve that slides on the crankshaft after the main gear and slinger are in place. If you're running a modern "doughnut" seal (black round rubber thingy), then you usually put a speedy repair sleeve over the stock one so that the spiral grooves don't wear out the modern front seal.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by busmania

Yep, if it’s supposed to be there I prefer it to be there! Anyone got the tube for sale?

BELOW is an explanation (in someone else's words) of why that tube was originally necessary, as well as WHY IT IS NO LONGER NEEDED.

"The very early engines 32-34, had no crank case ventilation, and slinger rear main. Crank case windage presurizes the interior of the engine, which looks for a place to escape. Major escape route is through the labyrinth, so a return pipe was fitted, the open end of which is immersed in the oil in the pan. Therefore, that possible/probable/definite oil leak is eliminated [to a degree]
Beginning 1935, and all subsequent production, the crankcase has positive ventilation, therefore there is no presurization of crankcase, which precludes the blowing out of oil through the labyrinth, therefore, although the rear main cap was tapped for the fitting of the return pipe, the pipe was not fitted during production.
Certain 'dump truck' applications, whereby a heavy load could lift the front wheels off of the deck, could indeed, tilt the rear of the engine sufficiently to allow oil to leak out through the labyrinth, so in that application, the return pipe was fitted."


To satisfy your curiosity, BELOW is a picture of the tube in question.

Coop

[barnfind08]

I called and left a message for this gentleman. Have both parts nos Ford