The Ford Barn

pdora · 08-15-2010, 07:44 AM

According to the Les Andrews shop manual, when adding V-8 brakes to a model A it is necessary to arrange for clearance by either shaving the drum and brake shoes, or just shim the axle to move the hub and drum out a bit.

I am wondering which is more commonly used in real-world experience.

Diagnostic narrative:

My recently-acquired 1930 Tudor began producing a rubbing/ scraping sound in the left rear wheel. My friend Sim brought a hub puller to find out what was going on. The first sign of trouble was that the axle nut came off with practically no resistance. Once we got inside it was obvious that the two shims had migrated in the direction of the banjo. This accounted for the loose nut and indicated that the hub and drum had moved inward causing the rubbing.

After purchasing new shims it was obvious that the existing items were too thin and most likely homemade. We could not positively identify the brand. I thought they might be Budweiser; Sim leaned toward Miller. My brother opined that since the car previously resided in the mountains of TN and NC, the shims might have come from R.C. Cola stock.

In any event, the new shims fixed the problem.

john in illinois · 08-15-2010, 08:15 AM

don't ya just love an easy fix.

Pete · 08-15-2010, 01:50 PM

"I am wondering which is more commonly used in real-world experience."

Shims are a quick fix that won't generally last very long.
Trim the parts so the hub fits the axle like it was intended.
If you lap the hub to the axle, it will have a much better chance
of not fretting and working loose..(Old racer trick)

Bassman/NZ · 08-15-2010, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pete

"i am wondering which is more commonly used in real-world experience."

shims are a quick fix that won't generally last very long.
Trim the parts so the hub fits the axle like it was intended.
If you lap the hub to the axle, it will have a much better chance
of not fretting and working loose..(old racer trick)

+1.

steve s · 08-15-2010, 09:44 PM

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I had my backing plates and drums both ground down per Cling's instructions, and still needed to use shims. Majorly bummed. Don't recall for sure but might have needed to grind the brake shoes a bit narrower as well.

BTW, I discovered there's a reason for those metal lips that I ground off to have been there: now, when I drive in the rain, the rear brakes seem to get wet and have given me some pretty exciting stops as they take turns grabbing. Not enough to make me regret converting to hydraulics, though. Just gotta remember to be alert that first wet stop.

Steve

08-15-2010, 07:44 AM	#1
pdora Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Rutledge, Georgia Posts: 184	Axle shims with hydraulic brakes According to the Les Andrews shop manual, when adding V-8 brakes to a model A it is necessary to arrange for clearance by either shaving the drum and brake shoes, or just shim the axle to move the hub and drum out a bit. I am wondering which is more commonly used in real-world experience. Diagnostic narrative: My recently-acquired 1930 Tudor began producing a rubbing/ scraping sound in the left rear wheel. My friend Sim brought a hub puller to find out what was going on. The first sign of trouble was that the axle nut came off with practically no resistance. Once we got inside it was obvious that the two shims had migrated in the direction of the banjo. This accounted for the loose nut and indicated that the hub and drum had moved inward causing the rubbing. After purchasing new shims it was obvious that the existing items were too thin and most likely homemade. We could not positively identify the brand. I thought they might be Budweiser; Sim leaned toward Miller. My brother opined that since the car previously resided in the mountains of TN and NC, the shims might have come from R.C. Cola stock. In any event, the new shims fixed the problem. __________________ Peter A. Dora -- Rutledge, GA (AE4XH)

08-15-2010, 08:15 AM	#2
john in illinois Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Illinois Posts: 2,185	Re: Axle shims with hydraulic brakes don't ya just love an easy fix.

08-15-2010, 01:50 PM	#3
Pete Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,409	Re: Axle shims with hydraulic brakes "I am wondering which is more commonly used in real-world experience." Shims are a quick fix that won't generally last very long. Trim the parts so the hub fits the axle like it was intended. If you lap the hub to the axle, it will have a much better chance of not fretting and working loose..(Old racer trick)

08-15-2010, 09:44 PM	#5
steve s Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kalamazoo Posts: 1,656	Re: Axle shims with hydraulic brakes Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I had my backing plates and drums both ground down per Cling's instructions, and still needed to use shims. Majorly bummed. Don't recall for sure but might have needed to grind the brake shoes a bit narrower as well. BTW, I discovered there's a reason for those metal lips that I ground off to have been there: now, when I drive in the rain, the rear brakes seem to get wet and have given me some pretty exciting stops as they take turns grabbing. Not enough to make me regret converting to hydraulics, though. Just gotta remember to be alert that first wet stop. Steve