The Ford Barn

Fred K-OR · 07-21-2015, 08:44 PM

I was putting the final check on the timing of my distributor, when I came across a strange sight. I got to the point where you have the rotor lined up with the number 1 plug pin in the distributor body, you turn on the key and twist the rotor a bit to see if you get a spark from the coil wire. Well I got a spark from the coil wire and also a spark between the point arm, where the rubbing pad is, and the cam!!!!. Is this something that happens all the time or does it mean that the rubbing pad on the point arm is worn down to far and thus caused the spark?

Would appreciate an opinion from someone that understands distributors better than I do. I am assuming that I need a new set of points. Is this true or is something else out of adjustment?

1955cj5 · 07-21-2015, 09:41 PM

I had a similar problem...the rubbing block on the points was so worn that the point arm nearly contacted the cam....new points should give you plenty of clearance...

BILL WILLIAMSON · 07-22-2015, 02:29 AM

If the point block is worn crooked, the point arm pivot post is probably loose & WOBBLY. It can be tightened, by staking it tighter, UNDER the upper plate-TAP-TAP-TAP!
BOTH of my operating distributors had LOOSE posts.
Bill W.

fiddlybits · 07-22-2015, 07:30 AM

In addition to just being worn I have seen arcing on a lot on more modern cars (50-60's) when someone has lubed the cam with a NON-dielectric grease or the dielectric grease has become horribly contaminated. The grease sets up a path that arcs and a carbon trace is created. In most cased just wiping off all the bad or extra grease fixes the problem but occasionally the carbon trace has migrated to the rubbing block and the points need to be replaced.

Dielectric grease only, and just a thin film.

George Miller · 07-22-2015, 08:03 AM

Back in the 50ts when I was working at the Ford garage, when we got a new guy we would charge a condenser up on the spark plug tester and ask the new guy if he though it was any good. Then hand it to him and watch him jump. Not nice but that is what happened.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 07-22-2015, 10:22 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by George Miller

Back in the 50ts when I was working at the Ford garage, when we got a new guy we would charge a condenser up on the spark plug tester and ask the new guy if he though it was any good. Then hand it to him and watch him jump. Not nice but that is what happened.

George,
We charged them with the probes of the 110 VOLT test light, mounted on the armature growler Condensers were layin' around EVERYWHERE!
IF they held a charge, we considered them "GOOD" In about the 60's, about 1 in 3, CENTURY Brand condensers were BAD! Always kept several USED condensers for "EMERGENCIES"
Final tuning a Datsun Roadster, took off the tach/dwell meter, it DIED! Defective condenser, system was using capacitors in the METER, to run!
Bill W.

Fred K-OR · 07-22-2015, 10:30 AM

Thanks guys. I did order a new set of points. The car seems to run at this point OK but it is not running the way it should.

hangarb7 · 07-22-2015, 10:44 AM

Wow, talk about learning something new every day at this site!

I betcha that is a problem for me. I actually have a donated tube of cam grease at home that I just received but I always have used standard grease. I bet that is why I have an occasional misfire that I can't locate!

I can't wait to get to my car and try out that theory. I have a cut-narrow distributor cap for testing but now I see the need for the clear cap that is available....

Thanks,

JackD

BILL WILLIAMSON · 07-23-2015, 11:40 AM

It's an education to dismantle a condenser: Cut of the ends, slit the case & remove & unroll the innards. It's just 2 strips of "foil", insulated from each other, by a long strip of "waxed" paper. One "foil" strip is hooked to the case, which is the positive side. The other is connected to the terminal/or wire, of the condenser. It "stores"/releases charge by induction principles.
True or false,??, but I read of a stranded camper that "fabricated" a condenser, with 2 sheets of foil, separated by 2 pages, IN a magazine. He, fortunately had extra wire in his tool box, & used it to hook up his "condenser" & it RAN!!!
Bill W.

07-21-2015, 08:44 PM	#1
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Another Distributor Question I was putting the final check on the timing of my distributor, when I came across a strange sight. I got to the point where you have the rotor lined up with the number 1 plug pin in the distributor body, you turn on the key and twist the rotor a bit to see if you get a spark from the coil wire. Well I got a spark from the coil wire and also a spark between the point arm, where the rubbing pad is, and the cam!!!!. Is this something that happens all the time or does it mean that the rubbing pad on the point arm is worn down to far and thus caused the spark? Would appreciate an opinion from someone that understands distributors better than I do. I am assuming that I need a new set of points. Is this true or is something else out of adjustment? __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster

07-21-2015, 09:41 PM	#2
1955cj5 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 1,578	Re: Another Distributor Question I had a similar problem...the rubbing block on the points was so worn that the point arm nearly contacted the cam....new points should give you plenty of clearance... __________________ Early '29 CCPU that had a 4-speed, but not any more.......in the family since '62

07-22-2015, 02:29 AM	#3
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Another Distributor Question If the point block is worn crooked, the point arm pivot post is probably loose & WOBBLY. It can be tightened, by staking it tighter, UNDER the upper plate-TAP-TAP-TAP! BOTH of my operating distributors had LOOSE posts. Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

07-22-2015, 07:30 AM	#4
fiddlybits Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: N Illinois Posts: 447	Re: Another Distributor Question In addition to just being worn I have seen arcing on a lot on more modern cars (50-60's) when someone has lubed the cam with a NON-dielectric grease or the dielectric grease has become horribly contaminated. The grease sets up a path that arcs and a carbon trace is created. In most cased just wiping off all the bad or extra grease fixes the problem but occasionally the carbon trace has migrated to the rubbing block and the points need to be replaced. Dielectric grease only, and just a thin film.

07-22-2015, 08:03 AM	#5
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Another Distributor Question Back in the 50ts when I was working at the Ford garage, when we got a new guy we would charge a condenser up on the spark plug tester and ask the new guy if he though it was any good. Then hand it to him and watch him jump. Not nice but that is what happened.

07-22-2015, 10:30 AM	#7
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: Another Distributor Question Thanks guys. I did order a new set of points. The car seems to run at this point OK but it is not running the way it should. __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster Last edited by Fred K-OR; 07-22-2015 at 11:04 AM.

07-22-2015, 10:44 AM	#8
hangarb7 Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: North Versailles, PA Posts: 146	Re: Another Distributor Question Wow, talk about learning something new every day at this site! I betcha that is a problem for me. I actually have a donated tube of cam grease at home that I just received but I always have used standard grease. I bet that is why I have an occasional misfire that I can't locate! I can't wait to get to my car and try out that theory. I have a cut-narrow distributor cap for testing but now I see the need for the clear cap that is available.... Thanks, JackD

07-23-2015, 11:40 AM	#9
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Another Distributor Question It's an education to dismantle a condenser: Cut of the ends, slit the case & remove & unroll the innards. It's just 2 strips of "foil", insulated from each other, by a long strip of "waxed" paper. One "foil" strip is hooked to the case, which is the positive side. The other is connected to the terminal/or wire, of the condenser. It "stores"/releases charge by induction principles. True or false,??, but I read of a stranded camper that "fabricated" a condenser, with 2 sheets of foil, separated by 2 pages, IN a magazine. He, fortunately had extra wire in his tool box, & used it to hook up his "condenser" & it RAN!!! Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"