Another Cam question - Isky max 1

[busmania]

I know there are a lot of cam threads and I have read a lot of them and searched and read for days and days but I nothing really answers my specific questions.

I am building a 40 block that is mostly stock with exception to 3 3/16 pistons, 4" mercury crank. My question is, will this cam work well with this and a single carb and stock heads and ignition? If in the future I want to add dual carbs and maybe some aluminum heads, will it work well for that too? I am hoping to find a cam that works for both applications as I am bleeding cash and would like to do the dual carbs and upgraded heads later on down the line once I get the car on the road. I'd rather not replace the cam twice.

Thanks!

Oh, im looking at this.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Isky-...hoCa84QAvD_BwE

[tubman]

I think it would work fine; just don't expect any world-beating performance increase. I have one of these in my "Hot Rod" engine (a 258" 8BA, with heads, carbs, ignition, etc.). It has good low speed manners and idles as smoothly as the "8CM" (late Mercury) in my '51.

I looked at the Speedway ad, and it looks like it's $433 for the camshaft only. When I bought mine (from Speedway) it came with a set of adjustable lifters and 185G springs for less than that. If indeed it is for the cam only, expect to double that price for lifters and springs. For the minimal price difference, I would go with the Isky components over the Speedway ones. Giving this pricing, I think there may be better (cheaper) sources for a cam.

All this is assuming that the engine will be going in a '40 Ford, which is a relatively heavy car. If you are talking about a lighter Hot Rod, there are probably better choices for a cam.

[busmania]

Thank you. It is an expensive cam. I should know that I already have adjustable lifters in Springs (stock) from van pelt.

I am open to other Cam’s. I am just trying to find something that is a little more high-performance than stock, but still has great in town Drive ability.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by tubman

Giving this pricing, I think there may be better (cheaper) sources for a cam.

All this is assuming that the engine will be going in a '40 Ford, which is a relatively heavy car. If you are talking about a lighter Hot Rod, there are probably better choices for a cam.

Re: Cheaper sources .... It may be wise to talk with Tony Price, also known as "KiWinUS" here on the 'Barn and discuss what you want with him. Not only does Tony grind cams, specializing with his L100 grind, but Tony is now just recently retired from Jack Roush/Fenway Racing NASCAR teams as the Assembly Shop Manager at Roush Fenway Racing. He has also served as an interim Race Team Crew Chief. Tony's credentials in engine technology come from years of very serious racing experience. Kiwi Tony invites potential cam customers to discuss their needs with him. You can send Tony a PM directly by clicking on the link BELOW!

Coop


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/priva...o=newpm&u=2868

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[Tim Ayers]

If you have or are willing to purchase adjustable lifters, you can get this grind (or other suitable grinds) reground on to your cam core for $150-$175 depending. That's saving you almost $300 clams.

If you do decide to go with a new Isky, install it or check it upon receipt. There are a fair number of stories of Isky's recent cams being ground inaccurately. You'll need to do something sooner than later if that would be the case with the cam.

[busmania]

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Thanks Tim. I do have new adjustable lifters in hand already. Who does these grinds? I have 2-3 stock cams I'd gladly be willing to use also. I'm not afraid of the money of the Isky but I'm not afraid to save either. Cam info seems vague quite honestly (in a sea of a TON of cam info) in terms of what is good and works with what engine combos. Maybe i'm overthinking it. That's where my lack of experience with flatheads leads me to just "buying off the shelf."

I did reach out to kiwi about a month ago and just followed up to a message he sent me that I kind of overlooked. How does the L100 kiwi compare to the max 1?

[Flathead Fever]

There is supposedly a Max 1 in my dad's '32 roadster. It has Offenhauser heads and a two-carb intake. It pulls pretty good for a little flathead or at least it did before its sat for 15-year's. It has hardly any lope to it which is disappointing. It's a mild cam and would probably be okay in a stock engine. The bigger cams loose low-end power that is why they tell you must use high compression heads. more cubic inches and lower gears to try and get some that low end power back on the street. I'm going to pull the Max 1 cam and replace it with either a Isky 400Jr. Clay Smith 272 or a Potvin Super 3/8th. all of them new regrinds I 've had for years. The Potvin is probably going in a chopped '32 3-window and the Clay Smith in dad's roadster.

Like others have said , degree every lobe on that Isky cam.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by busmania

Thanks Tim. I do have new adjustable lifters in hand already. Who does these grinds? I have 2-3 stock cams I'd gladly be willing to use also. I'm not afraid of the money of the Isky but I'm not afraid to save either. Cam info seems vague quite honestly (in a sea of a TON of cam info) in terms of what is good and works with what engine combos. Maybe i'm overthinking it. That's where my lack of experience with flatheads leads me to just "buying off the shelf."

I did reach out to kiwi about a month ago and just followed up to a message he sent me that I kind of overlooked. How does the L100 kiwi compare to the max 1?

PM Kiwi Tony AGAIN. He will lead you in a good direction. He CAN re-grind cams! TALK WITH TONY!

Coop

.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by busmania

. How does the L100 kiwi compare to the max 1?

The L100 is a good cam but it is WAY too much for an engine like yours.
A Max 1 or 77B will be fine. An EA stock cam would work good also.
You do not need adjustable lifters. As a matter of fact no engine needs them.
You are just putting a source of trouble in a new engine.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by Pete

The L100 is a good cam but it is WAY too much for an engine like yours.
A Max 1 or 77B will be fine. An EA stock cam would work good also.
You do not need adjustable lifters. As a matter of fact no engine needs them.
You are just putting a source of trouble in a new engine.

Pete as usual has given you great info. Hard to beat an ea cam for a near stock engine.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

There is supposedly a Max 1 in my dad's '32 roadster. It has Offenhauser heads and a two-carb intake. It pulls pretty good for a little flathead or at least it did before its sat for 15-year's. It has hardly any lope to it which is disappointing. It's a mild cam and would probably be okay in a stock engine. The bigger cams loose low-end power that is why they tell you must use high compression heads. more cubic inches and lower gears to try and get some that low end power back on the street. I'm going to pull the Max 1 cam and replace it with either a Isky 400Jr. Clay Smith 272 or a Potvin Super 3/8th. all of them new regrinds I 've had for years. The Potvin is probably going in a chopped '32 3-window and the Clay Smith in dad's roadster.

Like others have said , degree every lobe on that Isky cam.

I'm running the Potvin 3/8ths in a fully worked 292 ci motor and really like it. It pulls hard, runs hard, and sounds great. I have two of Tony's Kiwi L100's on deck for a future 276 build.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Pete as usual has given you great info. Hard to beat an ea cam for a near stock engine.

I really like the later "good" cams ("8CM, "EAB"), but he has a '40 block. Isn't it going to take a LOT of modification to run a late model cam in one? The thrust is different and then there is the problem of driving the distributor. Or is there some trick I'm missing?

[Ol' Ron]

I'd go along with Pete here. The application is what determines the cam. The Max#1/77b are exelent street cams, providing good low end driving charsets. Time to buy JWL's book, saves allot of money.
Gramps

[busmania]

That jwl book seems to be out of stock everywhere. I’d love to buy it. Anyone have a spare copy to sell?

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by tubman

I really like the later "good" cams ("8CM, "EAB"), but he has a '40 block. Isn't it going to take a LOT of modification to run a late model cam in one? The thrust is different and then there is the problem of driving the distributor. Or is there some trick I'm missing?

Nope - for what he is doing, there are no tricks if you want the front of the engine to remain as a 1940 (which has a WHOLE lot of benefits as far as the various components that are front of the block --> distributor, motor mounts, belt location, generator, fan mount . . . and on and on).

The only way to use a late 49-53 cam (within a 40 engine configuration) is to have the front of it modified (in a precise manner) to put the T-Slot for the front-mount distributor in the precise location. This isn't hard to do if you have a milling machine, a slot cutter and know how to setup the later cam to index the slot correctly.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Nope - for what he is doing, there are no tricks if you want the front of the engine to remain as a 1940 (which has a WHOLE lot of benefits as far as the various components that are front of the block --> distributor, motor mounts, belt location, generator, fan mount . . . and on and on).

The only way to use a late 49-53 cam (within a 40 engine configuration) is to have the front of it modified (in a precise manner) to put the T-Slot for the front-mount distributor in the precise location. This isn't hard to do if you have a milling machine, a slot cutter and know how to setup the later cam to index the slot correctly.

What about the thrust? Do you change the gears or what?

[KiWinUS]

Use the original gears.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Nope - for what he is doing, there are no tricks if you want the front of the engine to remain as a 1940 (which has a WHOLE lot of benefits as far as the various components that are front of the block --> distributor, motor mounts, belt location, generator, fan mount . . . and on and on).

The only way to use a late 49-53 cam (within a 40 engine configuration) is to have the front of it modified (in a precise manner) to put the T-Slot for the front-mount distributor in the precise location. This isn't hard to do if you have a milling machine, a slot cutter and know how to setup the later cam to index the slot correctly.

I believe Jim Burley offer regrinds of EBA's or 8CM's grinds on your stock core.

Tilden had a lot of great cam info. https://www.tildentechnologies.com/C...rformance.html

[tubman]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Use the original gears.

To be clear (remember, I'm an 8BA guy), you are referring to the original early gears.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by tubman

To be clear (remember, I'm an 8BA guy), you are referring to the original early gears.

Correct Tubman. Use the early rear thrust gears. Either machine late cam as B&S stated or have an early cam ground to the EA / Merc specs.
I build them all. Just stripped 7 - 8BA engines. All out for cleaning,crack and pressure test and sonic prior to building. Next build is a French block and 2 - 36LB Engines. Cheers