08-14-2019, 12:28 PM | #1 |
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1950 f1
Howdy! I am new to Ford Barn having just acquired a 1950 Ford F1. My immediate goals are to just get her to run as my dad drove the truck into the barn and parked it several years ago. I recently replaced the rusted fuel tank and put on a new fuel pump but am not having any luck getting fuel into the carburetor. I am not a mechanic but can follow rules pretty well.
Any recommendations for how to test the pump? I only put about 1.5 gallons in to avoid having to drain tank if required. Not sure if it needs more than that or not. Thanks for the help and can’t wait to learn more and get the truck fired up. |
08-14-2019, 05:23 PM | #2 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Disconnect the flexible line to the fuel pump and pressurize the fuel tank slightly.
Bruce
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08-14-2019, 05:31 PM | #3 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Post 2 will make sure your fuel line isn't clogged. It's hard to rig up a pressure gauge unless you have the proper fittings to connect up to the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor. It won't put out much pressure so you need a gauge that will read 10 psi or so with at least 2 psi increments. They don't put out more the 2 or 3 psi. The fuel tank venting needs to be functional. No venting, no draw. That little flex line mentioned by Bruce can get holes or cracks so the pump will just suck air. The line fittings have to be secure too or they can leak air back in.
Welcome to the barn. There are a lot of F1 folks here. |
08-14-2019, 06:01 PM | #4 |
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Re: 1950 f1
how about an update on your location, maybe a "barner" is close by who could help you out. we need new blood in the old truck/car hobby especially flatheads!! so help him get started
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08-14-2019, 07:13 PM | #5 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Did you also replace the fuel lines - both the hard and soft pieces?
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08-14-2019, 08:11 PM | #6 | |
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Re: 1950 f1
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Before I play with gas, indoors, I always check the exits, check my extinguishers, park those old fashioned drop lights, and think about a plan if the worst happens. Sh** happens. Keep in touch, Good Luck.
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08-14-2019, 09:42 PM | #7 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Thank you all for the quick and great help. I worked tonight and found that the fuel pump rocker arm must not have been set right on the pin. After many arm cramps I now have fuel going through the bowl and into the pump/carburetor. But unfortunately, she still is not firing, so not sure if I need to rebuild the carburetor or look at points. I replaced the ignition coil to be safe as it looked to be original.
I am in the Dallas area (Garland) and would appreciate any and all help. And for the safety piece, one of the first things I did was go to LED lights and push the truck out of the garage each time to be as careful as possible. Thanks again and I hope to get to meet some of you at some point. If there are swap meets in the area I'd love to go. |
08-15-2019, 04:46 AM | #8 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Start with the basics. Remove a spark plug, reconnect the wire, hold it against the engine block (to ground it) while an assistant presses the starter button with the key turned on. You are looking for a fat happy spark. Do this first before randomly replacing parts.
Which engine?
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08-15-2019, 08:41 AM | #9 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Thanks. The engine is the flat head v8 - R series (if that helps). I will try the spark plugs but what is next recommendation for pass or fail?
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08-15-2019, 08:49 AM | #10 |
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Re: 1950 f1
The R was a code Ford used for the V8 in trucks. H was used for the 226 6-cylinder. 8RT is the full prefix code for the V8 truck application. 8BA was the Ford passenger car application prefix and 8CM was the code prefix for the slightly larger 255 Mercury applications. The V8 engines all use the same block but oil pans, clutches, and water pumps were different just to name a few items.
My Pop had two monkey face F1s that I know about. I just wish he'd kept at least one of them before he passed. I liked them better than our 52 F3 but I drove the F3 a lot more. Last edited by rotorwrench; 08-15-2019 at 01:46 PM. |
08-15-2019, 09:01 AM | #11 |
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Re: 1950 f1
I think you do not have enough gas cause most tanks have a stand pipe at the fuel line
at the tank > so it don't suck up junk on the bottom. Three elements spark fuel air. take the coil wire off the cap, flick the points with screw driver should get good spark from coil wire, if so next path of spark is good rotor and good cap. pour little gas down carb should fire then likely stall. Every one should have in tool box one of those bulb fuel things from a boat fuel tank Napa has those squeeze rubber bulb and purge the fuel line till gas runs out In a container of course............. |
08-15-2019, 01:13 PM | #12 |
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Re: 1950 f1
This is troubleshooting. If you have spark then look for a different problem. There are only three requirements: fuel, air, & spark.
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08-15-2019, 01:33 PM | #13 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Fuel, air, spark and compression.
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08-20-2019, 08:21 PM | #14 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Thank you everyone for the recommendations. As I mentioned earlier, I got the fuel pump working - I thought. Meaning, I have fuel in the bowl so the suction works but there is no fuel being pushed out to the carb. After thinking I had fuel, I started looking for spark. I found that the distributor has spark so I started backing up and discovered my fuel pump issue. Has anyone ever heard of this? Hopefully it is an easy fix or something stupid I have done. Does the fuel pump push fuel to the carb or does the carb pull fuel from the pump based on a vacuum and the floats?
Second question - with the distributor cap off, I noticed that the rotor turns but not at a fast pace. I don't have any experience to know how fast it should turn. That could be an original part, I am not sure if any work was done previously. Thanks again. Last edited by gmcole; 08-20-2019 at 08:42 PM. |
08-20-2019, 09:26 PM | #15 |
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Re: 1950 f1
there are two check valves in the fuel pump--one allows gas from the tank then closes and the other allows gas to go to carb and then closes off so the gas does not go back to tank .worn fuel pump push rods can cause a pump to not work properly. I would prime the carb thru the air vent tube-this puts a supply of gas in the carb, enough to see if it runs. rotor does turn slow--one complete round to fire all eight cylinders
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08-20-2019, 10:06 PM | #16 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Do not use alcohol gas in these old vehicles ,unless the fuel system parts are alcohol safe .
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08-21-2019, 08:33 AM | #17 | |
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Re: 1950 f1
Quote:
To build on what Fordestes stated, you will eventually want to have your fuel pump rebuilt with an ethanol proof diaphragm and your carburetor rebuilt using an ethanol resistant rebuild kit. Ethanol gas is bad in all aspects and it's hard on rubber components on your V8 Ford. |
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08-21-2019, 02:28 PM | #18 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Have you checked the oil recently? It is possible for a fuel pump to pump fuel into the crankcase and dilute the oil!
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08-22-2019, 09:07 AM | #19 |
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Re: 1950 f1
The fuel pump on the truck is a new unit (bought from LMC Truck). I would hope that I didn't get a faulty pump but cannot rule that out. The pump does suck fuel into the sediment bowl but is not pushing it out to the carb. I took it apart and found gas not just in glass but in the fuel pump bowl itself. Unfortunately LMC did not provide any instructions for install or set-up so I went off of memory and how the old one looked after being removed.
One thing I want to ensure is that I have it connected correctly. The line coming from the tank goes into the inlet above the sediment bowl and the output line is above the pump tank itself going to the carb. I cannot locate video's online but from pictures and the shop manual I have this appears to be correct. All the lines from the tank to the pump and to the carb are new as well. Besides not having fuel being expelled from the pump is there a way to test and ensure it is working properly? |
08-22-2019, 09:31 AM | #20 |
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Re: 1950 f1
Dump a little gas (about 2 table spoons) down the carb and see if it fires up. If it does, you've narrowed it down to fuel pump or carb. Maybe a stuck needle and seat in the carb.
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