E28 Drum Taillight

[Charles Reese]

I need to replace the light socket assembly in my ‘drum’ taillight (have acquired a correct early style original). I realize that I will need to ‘rotate’ the strap-like connector between the socket and the upper bulb in order to remove/install sockets. It seems apparent that any movement will likely cause the insulators to break.

1. Seems it would be easy enough to drill out the ‘rivet’ but where would one find a replacement rivet for this?

2. can make insulating material from thick paper but is there a diagram of the order of assembly (i.e. where the insulators are located)

3. I recall seeing a photo where someone had soldered an accessory wire between the bulb sockets (I assume for better grounding). Unfortunately, did not keep a copy of that photo.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have some pictures from when I worked on three of them. I soaked the socket to metal body with Kroil for a day or two, then you have to push in on the spring loaded pin so you can rotate the bakelite socket and pull it out of the metal frame. (use care as replacement sockets are spendy)

[Charles Reese]

My socket is already loose ... is it simply a matter of turning the socket or will i have to 'move' the "L" shaped connector strip? if i have to move the strip, i am certain i will have to drill out the rivet and replace the insulators.

when/if i get it reassembled, where are the 'contact' points i should use with my ohmmeter to ensure i am not improperly grounded.

do you have a pix of the extra wire (ground) some have suggested?

[FL&WVMIKE]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I have some pictures from when I worked on three of them. I soaked the socket to metal body with Kroil for a day or two, then you have to push in on the spring loaded pin so you can rotate the bakelite socket and pull it out of the metal frame. (use care as replacement sockets are spendy)

Tom Wesenberg .....................
Do you have a photo of the Bakelite socket ? I might have a jar of NOS ones. Mine would not be too "spendy".
MIKE

[Tom Wesenberg]

When you push the locking pin in on the socket, you should be able to twist the socket around enough to release the contact strap, since it also should move to the side a bit, without having to drill out the rivet.

Notice the bulb lead contact in the last picture, which shows one of the socket spring loaded pins has pushed up until it hit the bulb contact, thus making the brake light stay on any time the lights were on.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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Here is a temporary bad ground fix for the stop light socket. The divider plate needs to be removed and sandblasted for a better ground, or I could scrape a small area clean and solder the divider plate to the main frame.

[Charles Reese]

It is my understanding that the earliest socket had a “full round Bakelite ribbed cylinder” while the later socket was ribbed but had a flat area at the wire attachment. The smooth (un-ribbed) cylinder was a service item

Mr. W. thanks for the pix. the last one is the one i recall ... will give it a try tomorrow.

[d.j. moordigian]

That is my understanding, I don't remember the dates of change...

[FL&WVMIKE]

CHARLES REESE ................
My sockets seem to be, maybe, "T" Model. I do have one, which seems to be very close. I've provided a photo.
MIKE

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by FL&WVMIKE

CHARLES REESE ................
My sockets seem to be, maybe, "T" Model. I do have one, which seems to be very close. I've provided a photo.
MIKE

Bummer...........your bag of gold just turned to a bag of plasitc.
Nothing A in there

[Steve Plucker]

Tom,

Nice show here...very helpful and interesting.

Thanks.

Pluck

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Here is a temporary bad ground fix for the stop light socket. The divider plate needs to be removed and sandblasted for a better ground, or I could scrape a small area clean and solder the divider plate to the main frame.

ahh i like!, i had issues with one i rebuilt with the upper bulb not grounding all the time, i would think you could do just about anything to attach a ground wire, could even add a blob of braze or solder between the plates and do the same thing.

[Jim/GA]

From Tom's image below I can see why Steve thought this light used a 2-contact bulb.




There are 2 contacts in there, but only one is for the tail light bulb. The other connects to the strap that runs up to the stop light bulb.

[Gary Karr]

I have never had to drill out the rivet to remove the "L" connector strip to remove the socket. You should be able to carefully push the socket from the bakelite side into the housing and the connector strip should bend enough to get the socket out. Then simply reinsert the socket the same way and the connector should go into the opening on the side and connect with the contact inside the socket.

[Tom Wesenberg]

As Gary mentioned, the rivet doesn't need to be removed, unless repairs are needed, like my broken insulator. You can push the locking pin in on the socket, and then rotate the socket so the strap turns out of the notch. You may need to soak the metal with Kroil to get the socket to move.

[charles=fla]

thank you all for the pictures and detailed information about the 28 tail light..now I understand..Charles..)..

[Tom Wesenberg]

BTW, that was the original FORD script wrinkle bulb from 1928 and it burned out about 4 years ago.

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

When you push the locking pin in on the socket, you should be able to twist the socket around enough to release the contact strap, since it also should move to the side a bit, without having to drill out the rivet.

Notice the bulb lead contact in the last picture, which shows one of the socket spring loaded pins has pushed up until it hit the bulb contact, thus making the brake light stay on any time the lights were on.

Tom,

In the top photo, with the "bullet connector" (the 2 tail light wires), do they
just pop out of the holder because of the the springs ?

Thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, the two wire terminals should pop out of the socket when you pull hard enough to overcome the spring loaded bullet shape. The barbs (shown in the 2nd picture) are to lock the plunger/socket assemblies in place in the bakelite, but one of mine came out.

[d.j. moordigian]

Thanks Tom,.... I have it !