AV8 chassis dilemma

[Jack 34pu]

My AV8 1928pu project seems to going nowhere. I got some pricing on a roller chassis setup with brakes, wheels & tires etc. hoping that getting more than basics would give a good discount. Well, I found out that we are in the ballpark of $15-$16K. I traveled to TN to look at a rod pu in hopes that I could use it as the base for a traditional AV8 but there were too many things to be changed back although the price for a complete pu seems more reasonable than starting from scratch as usual.

I know this forum is stretched a bit when talking about AV8's but maybe someone lurking in the background has some good advice or a project to get rid of before other Barners find out his secret! Ha!

[Bassman/NZ]

Well, I've just finished mine. My advice.... do it yourself. I'm 66, and it's taken me three years.
A frame $100
32 dropped axle with 39 brakes, bones etc, $500
47 flathead, good runner $1200
28 A tudor body, chopped 4" already, still registered with plates $2500
47 rear end $300
84-87 F150 trans with adapter, new clutch, all rebuilt. $2000
Mustang radiator and A shell $250
Did my own upholstery $250
Did my own wiring $300
VW bus steering $150
New wheel cyls, tie rod ends, nuts and bolts, dual master, new brake lines, welding stuff, engine gaskets etc etc $1000
16" solids with new tires, $1000
New glass all round $600
Grand total $10,150 plus incidentals I may have forgotten about, say $2000 = new grand total $12,150.

Why would I pay someone else more than that just for a rolling frame? Plus I have skills now that I did not have when I started.

[Mike in AZ]

using an A frame, etc??...what front end, rear end, etc??....Mike

[Ed Pitts]

Could you post more pics of the front end, etc. Looks like a good job. Ed

[Jack 34pu]

Thanks for detailed list. That is a great looking 'A'! I have the sheet metal, '50 Merc bored .080 and T5 trans. Was hoping I could find someone with a frame and rear already set up or a complete pu and I would sell my sheetmetal.

[Bob/Ohio]

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I am building my AV8 from nothing but parts. You know the story, a frame from here, a body from somewhere else, the list goes on and on,but this is the type of project that I wanted to do. The chassis was the most work, but it is the basis for the rest of the car. So far everything is going well,but it is a lot of work. It would be easy to buy everything, like on TV, but what fun would that be.

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by Bob/Ohio

I am building my AV8 from nothing but parts. You know the story, a frame from here, a body from somewhere else, the list goes on and on,but this is the type of project that I wanted to do. The chassis was the most work, but it is the basis for the rest of the car. So far everything is going well,but it is a lot of work. It would be easy to buy everything, like on TV, but what fun would that be.

That's how mine got started. I started with a bare frame, picked up the engine, picked up the rear end etc. I made life harder by boxing the whole frame, but if I did another I would just put an X member and plenty of gusseting in. Having said that, my doors close as good or better than my newish cars, so I guess it was worth it.

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by Ed Pitts

Could you post more pics of the front end, etc. Looks like a good job. Ed

If that's mine you're referring to...

[rotorwrench]

Going open drive on the rear axle can shure complicate things. I'm going with the more traditional closed drive. I still need to get one of the drive shaft kits fron Dick Spadaro and shorten the torque tube but the rest of the job shouldn't be too bad. I opted for the Tardel cross member and an old 39 3-speed tranny.

You would have to find one set up for the open drive for sure.

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Going open drive on the rear axle can shure complicate things. I'm going with the more traditional closed drive. I still need to get one of the drive shaft kits fron Dick Spadaro and shorten the torque tube but the rest of the job shouldn't be too bad. I opted for the Tardel cross member and an old 39 3-speed tranny.

You would have to find one set up for the open drive for sure.

Not necessarily. This is my 84-87 F150 trans (like a T5, but 1 less gear). I cut the output housing and shaft and adapted them to the torque tube. The only hard part is dismantling the trans to get the output shaft resplined.

[FlatheadTed]

Nice job Bassman

[Model A Bill]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Going open drive on the rear axle can shure complicate things. I'm going with the more traditional closed drive. I still need to get one of the drive shaft kits fron Dick Spadaro and shorten the torque tube but the rest of the job shouldn't be too bad. I opted for the Tardel cross member and an old 39 3-speed tranny.

You would have to find one set up for the open drive for sure.

Dick doesn't have the kits anymore Apparently there was a few issues with people not following the directions?or something like that.My local shop said he could cut the splines on my shortened shaft.I also wanted to use the torque tube but wanted to use a T-5 to make it a user friendly on the interstate

[Bassman/NZ]

Originally Posted by Model A Bill

Dick doesn't have the kits anymore Apparently there was a few issues with people not following the directions?or something like that.My local shop said he could cut the splines on my shortened shaft.I also wanted to use the torque tube but wanted to use a T-5 to make it a user friendly on the interstate

All you need to do is cut the mounting flange/bearing retainer off the output housing and mill it flat. Then make a matching steel plate drilled to hold the early Ford mount. Assemble it with your resplined and drilled and tapped shaft and you're good to go.

[Jack 34pu]

I was hoping to use open drive shaft with a T5 trans. Which banjo rear had the bolt-on wishbone? I've heard these will work with the low hp flatheads.

[rotorwrench]

The 35 & 36 had the beefiest radius rods that attached to the axle housings. They are getting harder to find but are still out there. These are the most adaptable for a "wishbone" set up but would still stay more stable if a torque arm was mounted next to the driveshaft. The Hot Rod Works site has a fair amount of info on their Tech Info tab. It has pics of the different axle housings & center sections. They make a fair stabilizer kit for the open drive conversion but I would build one a little heavier duty if I were going that route. The HAMB has some good info on ball type wishbone set ups and torque arm builds for open drive conversion.

[PeteVS]

Personally, I feel that if you're using a "front end" ball and socket set up for an open drive shaft rear, it won't hold up to constant thrust forces. But, that's my opinion.

[rotorwrench]

I've seen a few that used a larger ball than the Ford type for front wishbones. I agree that they aren't as beefy as I would want. I'd be looking at something more like a big trailer hitch ball and a big socket to match.

[Bob/Ohio]

Just another twist on the frame, I left the stock "A" cross member in and built an "X'' out of pieces from a 48 Ford frame,which ties everything together and makes a very ridged frame. I also "Z'd " the frame in the rear like the Tardel book. I am running a 39 trans and a torque tube. I used a 40 Ford rear end and radius rods. The "X" in the frame also gives you a place to mount your front radius rods inboard closer to the stock ball mount, which lets the suspension work better vs. mounting them further out on the outside of the frame. Just one more way to do it.

Bob

[PeteVS]

Originally Posted by Bob/Ohio

Just another twist on the frame, I left the stock "A" cross member in and built an "X'' out of pieces from a 48 Ford frame,which ties everything together and makes a very ridged frame. I also "Z'd " the frame in the rear like the Tardel book. I am running a 39 trans and a torque tube. I used a 40 Ford rear end and radius rods. The "X" in the frame also gives you a place to mount your front radius rods inboard closer to the stock ball mount, which lets the suspension work better vs. mounting them further out on the outside of the frame. Just one more way to do it.
Bob

Bob: I think we'd all love to see some pix of your frame / chassis!

[Bob/Ohio]

Just look in my album, I tried to keep up with some of my progress with pictures, to maybe help someone else building one. We all have different ideas on how to do things, so do whatever works for you.

Bob

[chuck stevens]

Here's my AV8: Stock A frame, buggie springs front & rear, Saginaw 4 speed w/od, 9" rear end with 3:70's, rear end is controlled by long radius arms and a panard bar. I have driven it thousands it miles and would change only a couple of things. I should have boxed the frame, it needs radials, and I would cross steer it with a Vega box, Chuck S.