B Distributor in a Model A and How to set the timing perfect?

[Logan]

Use a timing light. There's no "guessing" involved. You'll get it spot on, and you don't have to worry about it. Just my thoughts

[JRN1967]

I just picked up a rebuilt short block that has about 300 miles on it. I also ordered a 6:1 HC head from Snyder. I can run an A distributor or I really want to use my B distributor. I like the idea, that another person can drive the car afterwards and I won't have to worry about how they use the timing lever.

I also bought the timing indicator. My plan is to mark my zero point on the lower pulley using the A timing gear cover, but then switch to the B cover. This way the initial timing will be a little advanced. But it will be close if I have to time it in a pinch.

My question is; Once I get the lower pulley marked at zero, couldn't I use the timing indicator to set my initial timing at somewhere around 15* (before I start it) so the max advance of the B distributor might be closer to the desired 28*?

Thoughts?

thank you,
John

[daren007]

I agree with Pat's answer. I have found that if you check your timing with a timing light you will be off from TDC after using the pin method. There are various reasons for this that I will not go into. Splitting hairs is basically a moot point. In the A days anyone could time a "A" with the pin and be just fine. What I have learned over the years when setting up fuel and turbo pressures on aircraft is use the book for a base then close the book and make the system work. I am running 14 degrees initial advance with my B distributor and am happy.

[JRN1967]

Originally Posted by daren007

I agree with Pat's answer. I have found that if you check your timing with a timing light you will be off from TDC after using the pin method. There are various reasons for this that I will not go into. Splitting hairs is basically a moot point. In the A days anyone could time a "A" with the pin and be just fine. What I have learned over the years when setting up fuel and turbo pressures on aircraft is use the book for a base then close the book and make the system work. I am running 14 degrees initial advance with my B distributor and am happy.

I guess what I'm asking is whether I can set up the distributor at 15* or 14* from the zero mark on the pulley, and use that as my base to start the engine for the first time?

After I have it running for a while, with no vacuum or other leaks, then I can use a timing light to get somewhere around 28* at full advance.

Because the engine is almost new, and I'm using a HC with a B dist. I just want to find a good place to set it, before I start it.

I will be running the B cover after its finally timed correctly.

John

[1931 flamingo]

Why not put the B cover on it now and set the timing??
Paul in CT " I will be running the B cover after its finally timed correctly."

[JRN1967]

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Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Why not put the B cover on it now and set the timing??
Paul in CT " I will be running the B cover after its finally timed correctly."

I only want to use the A cover to mark my zero point on the crank pulley. I was planning on bolting the indicator to the cover, find TDC with the pin, and mark zero on the pulley.

Next, switch to the B cover and bolt on the indicator. Then I can line my zero on the pulley with the 14* or 15* on the indicator.

After that, I'd use the steps posted by H. L. Chauvin to set my distributor. I believe this would put my initial timing at 14* before I start the engine.

John

[denniskliesen]

I wouldn't waste my time putting an A cover on and then a B cover. Get a copy of the service bulletins 1932-1937 and read on page 21 and 22 how to set the timing. Also read page 104 and 107 of those bulletins. You will probably get too much total advance and need to limit that if it pings.

[JRN1967]

My engine came with an A cover installed so, it was no bother to check it at zero degrees. Basically bolt the new timing indicator to the cover and find the indent and mark zero on the pulley.

Next I checked my mark on the pulley to the B cover to see if it was at 19*. Like Daren said, it was close but not perfect. I checked my mark with the head off using a mag base and a thousandth indicator to TDC on piston #1. My mark on the pulley was at 1 degrees. But when I accounted for backlash it would be close to zero degrees.

I bought a copy of the 1932 to 1937 Service Bulletins. Page 21 seems to match post #4 in this thread. Not much different. Parts of pages 104 through 107 go into detail about finding TDC. I didn't really need to buy the book for that.

I already had the engine installed before the book arrived, so I set the timing at 14* (because of the HC head) and set my B distributor like step #6 in post #4. A little choke and it started right up and idled on the first try.

After it warmed up I checked my initial timing with a light, and it says it's at 15*, when I increase my rpms to what I think is around 2,000-2,200. it bounces around 29* and 30*.

When I drive it down the road at 45 mph it has plenty of power, I can't hear any gas knock like it's advanced too far. Even though the initial timing reads 15* and is 4* retarded, it isn't sluggish at low rpms. I think I'll leave it at 15 degrees.

Thank you all for your advice,
John

[daren007]

Set by the book then close the book and readjust to your liking. I ended up with 14 degrees advance on startup. I found that using the pin can be off up to two possibly three degrees when checked with a timing light.

[daren007]

If you use a timing indicator do not use the timing pin to mark the crankshaft pulley, Use the piston at TDC.