generator back plate

[1930artdeco]

Hi All,

I am going to rebuild me '30 generator and and need to get the back plate off. I have already taken the front off and armature out. How does one get the plate off and then how do I get the rear bearing out?
Also, having never done this before is their anything special I should look out for/do?

Thanks,

Mike

[Kurt in NJ]

Which generator do you have ? 1 has 2 ball bearings, the other has a bushing.

the original rear bearing for the 2 ball bearing generator was a 2 piece bearing and the outer race should have a spring to keep pressure on the bearing, most times it is replaced with a modern 1 piece bearing, that also should have a spring to dampen any movement. The ball bearing should fit tight on the armature shaft.

your end plate could be stuck with paint, or the locating tabs could just fit tight.

make notes on the location of the wires, pulling too much on the field wire can pull it out of the windings.

look inside the field housing for splatters of solder flung from where the wires are joined to the commutator. ( mine had this happen on the maiden voyage --i was told that resoldering would be a tempoary repair--40 years ago --and still working)

If your endplate has a bushing and it is tight you can leave it alone, but you do have to clean out the oil cup, and felt wick so the fresh oil gets to the bushing.
If you have to replace the bushing it can be threaded and a bolt used to remove it if you don't have a proper bushing remover.

if the ball bearing race stays in the end plate you can try tapping it on a wood block --lightly, or you can check the tool places for a small pilot bearing puller --that same size bearing is used for pilot bearing on many other cars. ( the original 2 piece bearing is often called a magneto bearing)

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'm sure you have the generator band removed. If it's the original band to that generator you should find a date on it, such as "K-2". "K" stands for 1930 and "2" stands for February. The ball bearing in the rear end plate was used until April 1930, then it was changed to a bushing.

Remove the output wire from the power brush wire and the field wire from the adjustable brush, then the end plate should tap off.

If you have the ball bearing end plate you should have the output terminal near the front of the case, and the wire leading to it is taped to the edge of the field wire. This makes it easy to confuse with the field wire, so be careful when you put it back together that you have the field wire on the adjustable brush. Remeber the short side of the brush faces the brush holder pivot point of all 3 brushes.

The front ball bearing should be a snug fit on the armature shaft and it also has spacers and lock rings that hold it in place. The spacers and snap rings should limit the armature from moving in and out. The lock rings are soft steel and are easily bent using a couple of thin screwdrivers. To reinstall them just squeeze them together with a pliers. If you have to drill out the original 4 rivets on the front ball bearing you can buy new fasteners that look like rivets from the outside, but have nuts and lock washers on the inside. When you reassemble the generator, be sure to install the lock washers under the screw heads on the rear end plate. This keeps the nuts on the front end from touching the pulley.

When you work on the generator the last thing to do before just before starting the car again is to jump the 2 terminals on the cutout for 1 second to polarize the generator.

[1930artdeco]

Thank you for all of the help on this. This is the Gen. I am working on along with the original armature. I purchased a NEW armature and anything that moved (bearings etc.) for the rebuild.
There is a bushing on the rear plate apparently-It looked like a bearing through the grease though.

Mike

[Richard/Ca]

Is the power brush the thin one? And does the long wire from the output terminal on front of the housing go on it? And does one of the fat brush's go to ground ? I lost my wiring diagram and could use some help. Richard/Ca

[Tom Wesenberg]

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NO and NO! The thin brush is always the adjustable brush for the FIELD and the power and ground brushes are thicker. Be careful not to mix up the wires going to the brushes. Output terminal wire MUST go to the thick power brush.

[Richard/Ca]

Thanks Tom ! I have not tryed it yet but I think that is the way I have them wired. Richard/Ca