1938 Ford truck distributor

[RBaker]

Hi,
Been working on getting this old engine running for a couple of weeks....engine turns over great....about 90lbs of pressure in each cylinder.

My problem is this weird distributor.....I removed it, cleaned the points, new condenser, set points to .15 etc...put it back on and can get spark on the right side points when I turn the engine clockwise with a wrench on the flywheel.....but the left side points will not spark unless I turn the engine counter clockwise.

When I say right side I mean when I'm looking at the front of the engine.

Is it possible when I replaced the distributor I put it in completely opposite of how it came out?....I did not mark the distributor when I removed it so I guess I messed up the timing?

I did not turn the motor over with the distributor removed.

This is an early 38 with the 21 stud motor....Eggshell or helmet distributor from what I have found online.

This is how it looked when I got it....it has been cleaned up since then.

[RBaker]

I guess one of my questions is....are both points suppose to spark when they open when the engine is turned over?

[Hoop]

This is a great question! It's like trying to figure out if the light in the refrigerator goes out when you close the door ...

First, orientation. The "right-side" of the engine is the is on the right when you are sitting at the steering wheel ... in the USA, the passenger side.

The engine rotates clockwise when viewed from the front of the engine.

The "left-side" points in the distributor break and fire the plugs. The right-side points close the circuit (or open the circuit depending on which circuit you're talking about) and don't fire anything ... turning the engine backwards just confuses me so we'll ignore that, at least for now.

Also, ignore what you are seeing in the distributor. Attach the spark plugs and ground them to the block. Turn the engine clockwise and check to see if the plugs fire.

The distributor is designed to go back onto the engine correctly even if you've spun the engine. The tab on the back is offset to match the offset in the slot. You can TRY to mount it 180 degrees out, BUT you're going to break something. Just be careful that it all lines up.

Don't give up on the original distributor. It's a good unit.

Post back your findings. (Don't get your nose caught in the refrigerator door ... )

[RBaker]

Thank you Hoop!

Yeah when I start playing with something new it always get me curious as to how the darn thing works.....I agree forget about why I turned the engine over backwards..haha.

Sitting in the driver seat yes those left side points do spark.....so the no spark on the right points is normal.

I admit I was confused but I swear things will look better for me sooner or later.....just glad I found a forum where some folks can help me.

This is a pic of the old truck I'm working on.....I have removed everything but the cab....the engine and trans seem to be in pretty good shape..I'm at the point where I need to get it running....just rebuilt the starter.

[Sid the Maineiac]

Good luck with your project! It looks pretty much complete and that is a real plus!

[01aford]

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Nice looking stock brown coil.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Sid the Maineiac

Good luck with your project! It looks pretty much complete and that is a real plus!

Thanks....only thing missing is the tailgate.

I also have a question about the trans.....would it be a 4 speed? It has a switch as if it would have a 2 speed rear.

The number on the housing is 51-7006.....other side is a 78C stamp.

[Tinker]

Yep 4 speed truck transmission. Ask me how I know

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Yep 4 speed truck transmission. Ask me how I know

Oh yeah awesome!! You are way ahead of me on progress! Thanks for the info on the trans.

[Tinker]

Thanks and I'm a long way from finishing. A lot of body work needs to be done. Farm truck.

The 4 speed is still only 1:1 in 4th gear. You'll probably only use 1st (granny gear) for pulling stumps out. I start off in 2nd. Also the rear is probably 4:11 gears as well.

Your truck, as mentioned, looks pretty complete. Have fun.

[Hoop]

Some folks have had less than complimentary things to say about the looks of the "barrel-nosed" '38 and 39 PU's. BUT, with good paint ... maybe even some two-tone work ... the truck turns beautiful. And, it has a decent mechanical base.

Shoulda kept my '39.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Thanks and I'm a long way from finishing. A lot of body work needs to be done. Farm truck.

The 4 speed is still only 1:1 in 4th gear. You'll probably only use 1st (granny gear) for pulling stumps out. I start off in 2nd. Also the rear is probably 4:11 gears as well.

Your truck, as mentioned, looks pretty complete. Have fun.

Thanks....if I have any more issues I know who to ask since you are well on your way with yours.
I have not found much online about these trucks at all.....you guys have told me more in 30 minutes than I found online in a month.

Originally Posted by Hoop

Some folks have had less than complimentary things to say about the looks of the "barrel-nosed" '38 and 39 PU's. BUT, with good paint ... maybe even some two-tone work ... the truck turns beautiful. And, it has a decent mechanical base.

Shoulda kept my '39.

I have a neighbor who is about 75 he said the 38 & 39 trucks were the ugliest Ford ever made....I laughed and said maybe thats why the farmer tucked it away in the corner of his barn for 40 years.

He sent me to a guys house that is suppose to be the "flathead king" around here but in a nutshell he had never seen this type of particular flathead & distributor. The modern day mechanics I know had no idea about it either.

I only wish it had a 24 stud motor.....from what I read online the early 38 models came with this 21 stud.

Back out to the garage....thanks for the help!

[Tinker]

Yes my understanding on the early 38' 21 bolts are that Ford was using up the last of the 37' blocks before switching over. If your going to keep it stock it's a great engine. 99% of people have no idea whether its a 21 or a 24. They just smile.

It is hard to find hop-up heads but, IMO, trucks look best with the stock heads and some green engine paint.

I'll help if I can. Still learning myself.

[Hoop]

"I only wish it had a 24 stud motor.....from what I read online the early 38 models came with this 21 stud. "

Noooooooooooooooo. The 21 stud is great. Mostly used in '37, it holds a special spot in the development of the flathead. I really like '37s especially because they have the unique 21 stud with insert bearings. I actually have a freshly rebuilt '37 21 stud out in the shop and rub my hand over it each time I walk by it.

I'm glad you showed up here ... we'll get you straightened out.

Forget (that's not what the Soprano's say) the 24 stud. Embrace your 21 and its distributor. You are doing OK.

[RBaker]

Wow...you guys know your stuff! I have never been one to dismantle history and the old truck has made it this far with the original motor so that 21 stud is a keeper.

I just read so much online about how great the 24 stud engines are so I figured they were better.....but I also read like Hoop said that the last 21 studs had major improvements.

I actually have a good feeling about this engine.....everyone was surprised at the strong compression it has.....luckily the old man filled the crankcase with diesel fuel as it sat in the barn it was also turned over by hand every 3 or 4 years so the motor never stuck.

I checked the trans oil yesterday and it was completely full even after sitting 40+ years.

This was a Kansas farm truck and without a doubt someone loved it back in the day.

[Hoop]

" ... so that 21 stud is a keeper."

Attaboy! Many of us are way into preservation. I would rather see your truck with the original engine in it than ... say, a later 59AB which may be an improved engine. but lacks the authenticity of the 21 stud.

Wait and see. You will get more compliments from knowledgeable flathead guys for keeping it the way it is. You'll be glad you did.

[Mike in AZ]

hmmm....if he's a "flathead king" and has never seen a distributor like yours, you might want to think about his title again....that distributor was used from '32-'41 with a few modifications thru those years, but basically the same....otherwise, have fun with your truck....looks pretty solid....Mike

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

hmmm....if he's a "flathead king" and has never seen a distributor like yours, you might want to think about his title again....that distributor was used from '32-'41 with a few modifications thru those years, but basically the same....otherwise, have fun with your truck....looks pretty solid....Mike

I would agree with your statement on the so called king. MOO. ken ct

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

hmmm....if he's a "flathead king" and has never seen a distributor like yours, you might want to think about his title again....that distributor was used from '32-'41 with a few modifications thru those years, but basically the same....otherwise, have fun with your truck....looks pretty solid....Mike

Thanks Mike.....it is fun to tinker with.

The guy was actually born in 1938 same year as my truck.....if it were not for his health and age he said he would love to have it.

He has two ford flatheads....one is a V8 car with the crab style distributor the other is a later model truck with the Flathead 6 cylinder. He had some good info and advice but not like I found here on this website.

A lot of people around here have old fords but he is the only one that retained the flathead engines......everyone else replaced the flatheads with modern engines.

I'm just happy I found out yesterday that my distributor is working properly....will work on it a little more this morning before we get the 100 degree heat.

[RBaker]

Good news to report......I took the advice of Hoop and put half of the distributor back on then inserted one plug wire.

Got my new starter on and connected the 6 volt battery.....turns over real nice!

I cleaned the little copper terminals inside the distributor cap and the terminals on the rotor to a shiny finish....hoop said use a spark pug grounded to the block but I figured what the heck I will just hold it in my hand.

Connected a wire to the coil then tapped the starter while holding the bare plug wire in my hand.....the pain I felt was not a "bad pain" but the pain of happiness.

The old truck was telling me....."Hey Stupid, I'm still living now let go of that wire dummy".

Also got my new fuel pump on...carb is cleaned and ready to go.

Need to order some new plug wires now and get some new plugs...getting close to starting it up.

Few pics but so humid here the camera fogged up.

[82ndscotty]

Originally Posted by RBaker

I guess one of my questions is....are both points suppose to spark when they open when the engine is turned over?

no one opens circuit the other closes it (to give you more dwell) Scotty

[RBaker]

I had a private message from a guy wanting to see the transmission....the numbers 51-7006.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by 82ndscotty

no one opens circuit the other closes it (to give you more dwell) Scotty

Thanks, that confused me for several days until I joined this site yesterday....what a relief.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Basically, the "extra" right point closes before the left one could close after firing. The early closing (only one needs to be closed to complete circuit) allows more charging time/dwell for the coil to recover for the next shot.
Cycle is thus:
Both points open, 9 degrees after firing
then
right point closes and stays closed 22 1/2 degrees...coils starts loading
Left point closes 9 degrees before the right opens,stays closed 22 1/2
right point opens...coil continues to charge
then left opens, coil fires, repeat.
Both must be open to fire coil, but only one needs to be closed to charge the coil, so that's how the overlap helps.
Hope I got the cycle right...easier to follow if you rotate a distributor and watch than it is talking about it!
I posted field-expedient timing method on here recently I think.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Basically, the "extra" right point closes before the left one could close after firing. The early closing (only one needs to be closed to complete circuit) allows more charging time/dwell for the coil to recover for the next shot.
Cycle is thus:
Both points open, 9 degrees after firing
then
right point closes and stays closed 22 1/2 degrees...coils starts loading
Left point closes 9 degrees before the right opens,stays closed 22 1/2
right point opens...coil continues to charge
then left opens, coil fires, repeat.
Both must be open to fire coil, but only one needs to be closed to charge the coil, so that's how the overlap helps.
Hope I got the cycle right...easier to follow if you rotate a distributor and watch than it is talking about it!
I posted field-expedient timing method on here recently I think.

Ahhh now it all makes sense to me.....I had a socket on the flywheel and I cant tell you how many times I slowly turned that engine over watching each set of points waiting for both to spark.

I cleaned the "other" set of points at least 20 times trying to get spark.

Glad to know today it is working as it should....I'm not sure how old that coil is but the darn thing is still working..... the coil says FORD on it.

[Mike in Mass]

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I heard an "old guy" say " eveyone likes the 35 -6- 7 ford trucks. the 38 an 9s are the ugly step sisters ! I don,t like my Ugly stepsister, but I love my 39! ! ! It is still in pieces in my celler but it,s almost ready to see the light of day agan !

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by RBaker

Hi,
Been working on getting this old engine running for a couple of weeks....engine turns over great....about 90lbs of pressure in each cylinder.

My problem is this weird distributor.....I removed it, cleaned the points, new condenser, set points to .15 etc...put it back on and can get spark on the right side points when I turn the engine clockwise with a wrench on the flywheel.....but the left side points will not spark unless I turn the engine counter clockwise.

When I say right side I mean when I'm looking at the front of the engine.

Is it possible when I replaced the distributor I put it in completely opposite of how it came out?....I did not mark the distributor when I removed it so I guess I messed up the timing?

I did not turn the motor over with the distributor removed.

This is an early 38 with the 21 stud motor....Eggshell or helmet distributor from what I have found online.

This is how it looked when I got it....it has been cleaned up since then.

Hard to make out but you may have the wrong rotor in there,would need better shot from the side more with the caps off. Also the cap on pic rt side dosent look like its on fully[gap at the bottom of photo] Rotor must have steps on both ends [like stair steps] to be correct. the smooth ones are for 34-36 not 37 up. Pin spacings are diff on the inner plate. ken ct.

[soder33]

I Just rebuilt a 1937 21 stud to stock specs. See video

[soder33]

Something didn't work so I will try again.

http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1307.flv


http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1313.flv

[Cecil/WV]

It worked for me!

[OLD...BILL]

Mr Baker: I hope your having as much fun, as we reading what your doing, YES the 21 stud is a keeper....and what I see of your work, it going to be a truck to be proud of... must get the Ford green engine paint ...
Now the flip lever on the trans shift lever. you will need to pull it up/with your thumb, to put the trans in reverse. I don't remember is it up to the dash or down to the seat?
Give me a break, it was 1941/42 war years all the men were gone, as a 10 year old boy I was put to work, the truck we had was ether 38 or 39 We did take the sides off the hood to keep it cool in the summer.
Please tell us how good it sounds when it comes back to live .... OLD...BILL

[jerry grayson]

Originally Posted by RBaker

Thanks....only thing missing is the tailgate.

I also have a question about the trans.....would it be a 4 speed? It has a switch as if it would have a 2 speed rear.

The number on the housing is 51-7006.....other side is a 78C stamp.

Yes that is a 4 speed and it did not come from the factory in that truck. Look at the metal transmission cover and you will notice that it has been "trimmed" to fit the 1 1/2 ton big truck transmission. Look through the slot in the floorboard or if you have removed it look on the spot on the transmission that would line up with the slot and you will see a serial number. This number should be the same as the number on the frame next to the steering box. Since the transmission is a later replacement, the two number will not be the same. If you will post the number on the transmission someone will tell you the year of it.
Good start on a nice pickup!!
BTW, the "switch" or lever on the stick is the reverse lockout. Pull it up to get in reverse.

[Rowdy]

Way ahead of me also. May have to sell both later this fall. Rod

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by ken ct

Hard to make out but you may have the wrong rotor in there,would need better shot from the side more with the caps off. Also the cap on pic rt side dosent look like its on fully[gap at the bottom of photo] Rotor must have steps on both ends [like stair steps] to be correct. the smooth ones are for 34-36 not 37 up. Pin spacings are diff on the inner plate. ken ct.

Hi Ken,
That pic was taken when I pulled it from the barn..I have cleaned it up since then I have the caps fitting tight. The rotor does have step type brass points on it but the picture did not get that part. Do you think i need to replace that rotor it has been on there at least 40 to 50 years but it looks "ok"?

Originally Posted by soder33

Something didn't work so I will try again.

http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1307.flv


http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1313.flv

That is one sweet engine...started right up when you touched the starter and is sounds so good! Gives me something to dream about.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

Mr Baker: I hope your having as much fun, as we reading what your doing, YES the 21 stud is a keeper....and what I see of your work, it going to be a truck to be proud of... must get the Ford green engine paint ...
Now the flip lever on the trans shift lever. you will need to pull it up/with your thumb, to put the trans in reverse. I don't remember is it up to the dash or down to the seat?
Give me a break, it was 1941/42 war years all the men were gone, as a 10 year old boy I was put to work, the truck we had was ether 38 or 39 We did take the sides off the hood to keep it cool in the summer.
Please tell us how good it sounds when it comes back to live .... OLD...BILL

Thanks Old Bill,
I already love the truck and plan to keep it like it is.....I was wondering about reverse and now I know!! Does that mean you can use reverse in all gears when you lift the lever or just when you lift the lever and put it in 1st?

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Rowdy

Way ahead of me also. May have to sell both later this fall. Rod

39 or 38? Looks real good to me!

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by jerry grayson

Yes that is a 4 speed and it did not come from the factory in that truck. Look at the metal transmission cover and you will notice that it has been "trimmed" to fit the 1 1/2 ton big truck transmission. Look through the slot in the floorboard or if you have removed it look on the spot on the transmission that would line up with the slot and you will see a serial number. This number should be the same as the number on the frame next to the steering box. Since the transmission is a later replacement, the two number will not be the same. If you will post the number on the transmission someone will tell you the year of it.
Good start on a nice pickup!!
BTW, the "switch" or lever on the stick is the reverse lockout. Pull it up to get in reverse.

After reading your comment I went straight to the garage with pen and paper and you hit the nail on the head!

I can read the serial number on the frame next to the steering box and it does not match this trans number.

Trans number BB18-2216590 clear as day.

[Tinker]

Reverse is all the way over right and down. To get into reverse use the trigger. It's an H pattern for forward gears and all the way right for reverse. 1st is up left and follow through for the rest of the gears.

Post some video when you get it started, if you will. Very cool truck.

[RBaker]

I worked on it about 4 hours today and had a few minor problems......I got my fuel line connected from the pump to the carb with new fittings and hose. I went to Napa, Carquest and autozone none of them had 18mm plugs for the engine but I finally found some at TSC....Autolite 386.

I got a "cut to size" set of 7mm plug wires from carquest also......my points have great spark but when I installed the plug wires and plugs I notice the spark to the plugs was very weak when I grounded the plug to the block....it was tiny.

I also noticed some type of engine ground wire going from the cylinder head to the firewall on the cab....I may need to clean this well??

Should the condenser be grounded to the block?? It is connected to the coil but has some type of other piece hanging down like it needs to be connected to a bolt.

Good spark to the points but weak spark to the plugs that is my issue now.....the rotor and both caps on the distributor that you connect the plug wires to are the ones that were already on it....I have not put in new points ,caps or rotor I just cleaned them up very well.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Reverse is all the way over right and down. To get into reverse use the trigger. It's an H pattern for forward gears and all the way right for reverse. 1st is up left and follow through for the rest of the gears.

Post some video when you get it started, if you will. Very cool truck.

Thanks Tinker,

Yes I will make a video when I get it running.....I'm getting real close I think!

[Tinker]

When you get a chance, get 00 welding wire and have ends made up for all the battery connections. You won't regret it. Grounds are your friend. Clean all connections.

This site is great for parts drawings. http://www.vanpeltsales.com



a pict of mine.

[RBaker]

Perfect picture Tinker thank you! Thursday I will connect my condenser that way.....Do you think the engine ground wire may also be my problem?? I just noticed it today and have not removed it for cleaning...it is pretty rusty.

Look forward to reading any help left here in the morning this site has been great help to me.

[Tinker]

Yes, clean all connections. Upgrading to welding wire is something you can do later once everything else is in order. Just clean it up and you should be fine.

[Hoop]

"Perfect picture Tinker thank you! Thursday I will connect my condenser that way..... "

The picture may be misleading since your condenser may be the earlier design that attaches to the distributor mounting bolt (to the block) on the upper right side rather than one of the coil mounting screws.

Yes. I recently encountered a loose mounting bolt that, even with the condenser terminal in place, did not provide sufficient contact ... engine would not run.

"Do you think the engine ground wire may also be my problem?? I just noticed it today and have not removed it for cleaning...it is pretty rusty."

Battery positive lead (original) goes to firewall (hope in '39 like my '38 coupe.) Firewall must be connected to engine. Again, been there. Weak/no spark.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Hoop

"Perfect picture Tinker thank you! Thursday I will connect my condenser that way..... "

The picture may be misleading since your condenser may be the earlier design that attaches to the distributor mounting bolt (to the block) on the upper right side rather than one of the coil mounting screws.

Yes. I recently encountered a loose mounting bolt that, even with the condenser terminal in place, did not provide sufficient contact ... engine would not run.

"Do you think the engine ground wire may also be my problem?? I just noticed it today and have not removed it for cleaning...it is pretty rusty."

Battery positive lead (original) goes to firewall (hope in '39 like my '38 coupe.) Firewall must be connected to engine. Again, been there. Weak/no spark.

Thursday will be cleaning day for all connections....something I should have done first thing but got in a hurry.

As you mentioned my condenser looks like this....bolt it to the block?

[Tinker]

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Looks like it. Not the same as mine.

[Rowdy]

Both are 38's, got the yellow one to fire up breifly with a home made bare minimum wiring harness. Really needs new plug wires. Has Juice brakes that were added in the 60's. Bought the other one because it had a bed, a better cab, hood sides and the raditor is better. Engine in that one is stuck and the owner says it was a real oil burner when he parked it. It also has later Merc brakes on the front. Both frames are shot. Working on getting the titles right now. Rod

[Mike in AZ]

try to get it started with what you have...new plugs, etc. as you are planning...then start replacing parts if need be....good luck....sounds like you are having fun....Mike

[Hoop]

" ...bolt it to the block? "

Yes. The reason for the change in design was due to the difficulty of removing the coil from the distributor with the distributor installed on the engine.

The distributor bolts are a little hard to reach and sometimes allow only micro turns of the wrench. Attaching the condenser ground to a coil screw makes the job easier, but either condenser will work for you.

[jerry grayson]

Originally Posted by RBaker

After reading your comment I went straight to the garage with pen and paper and you hit the nail on the head!

I can read the serial number on the frame next to the steering box and it does not match this trans number.

Trans number BB18-2216590 clear as day.

According to the chart that I have, that transmission more than likely was made in 1936. It will work and shift OK in your pickup, but you may not be satisfied with it. It has straight cut gears and no synchronizers and may require you to double clutch to shift gears. You may be happier with a stock 3 speed.JMHO

[1952henry]

The transmission is a Warner Gear T9, known as a spur gear in Fordspeak. It was first used in 1929 AAs. It was revised for the Model BB, hence the BB part number. As stated the little lever is the reverse gear lockout, which Warner Gear dropped after 1942.

[Tinker]

Great information 52Henry. Thank you.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by jerry grayson

According to the chart that I have, that transmission more than likely was made in 1936. It will work and shift OK in your pickup, but you may not be satisfied with it. It has straight cut gears and no synchronizers and may require you to double clutch to shift gears. You may be happier with a stock 3 speed.JMHO

Originally Posted by 1952henry

The transmission is a Warner Gear T9, known as a spur gear in Fordspeak. It was first used in 1929 AAs. It was revised for the Model BB, hence the BB part number. As stated the little lever is the reverse gear lockout, which Warner Gear dropped after 1942.

Thank you both for the info that is very interesting history! There is a guy down the road with a 3 speed that came out of a 1939 coupe that looks very similar but the shifter shaft is odd shaped ...not as tall as mine and more curved.

[RBaker]

You guys were dead on about the weak spark and the bad ground connections.....first thing this morning I grounded the condenser to the block and removed and cleaned the engine to cab ground connection.

After that the spark at the plugs became SUPER STRONG!

After that I did try to start it a few times and the old engine ran for about 6 to 8 seconds.....my carb which I though was a model 94 is actually a Ford model 59...it does not seem to be working properly even after cleaning several times...the pump mechanism spring is very weak and one jet seems to pump fuel ok but the other just sputters fuel out.

I removed it and cleaned it again today....one thing I noticed is the float needle has no rubber type tip or gasket on it at all....should it have one? It's just a shiny shaft.

I think the timing may be off some.....how do you check the timing? I noticed on vanpelt sales they show the "ruler" method when you have the distributor removed...is that the only way to check timing?

Most of all I'm happy today that it tried to run.....better than nothing!

[OLD...BILL]

GO GET THE TRANSMISSION.... N*O*W.... From the guy down the street. you will not be sorry, you drive that 4 speed once around the block and crunch and crunch on the gears, you will want to make the change, to the passenger car/lt truck trans. and what was in your truck originally ?? and much nicer to drive, as for the shift handle, it can be change, or bent to your liking. and if you don't like the 39 car trans, you can sell the me for next nonthing, Ha-Ha.... as for the 4 speed; save the rear mount and coupling and the clutch shaft linkage, gut the gear box and us it for a wheel stand around the shop. .... OLD....BILL

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by RBaker

You guys were dead on about the weak spark and the bad ground connections.....first thing this morning I grounded the condenser to the block and removed and cleaned the engine to cab ground connection.

After that the spark at the plugs became SUPER STRONG!

After that I did try to start it a few times and the old engine ran for about 6 to 8 seconds.....my carb which I though was a model 94 is actually a Ford model 59...it does not seem to be working properly even after cleaning several times...the pump mechanism spring is very weak and one jet seems to pump fuel ok but the other just sputters fuel out.

I removed it and cleaned it again today....one thing I noticed is the float needle has no rubber type tip or gasket on it at all....should it have one? It's just a shiny shaft.

I think the timing may be off some.....how do you check the timing? I noticed on vanpelt sales they show the "ruler" method when you have the distributor removed...is that the only way to check timing?

Most of all I'm happy today that it tried to run.....better than nothing!

No you dont want the needles with the rubber tip. And is the strap on the cond. it should be behind the bolt head not behing the dist housing,at least it looks that way in the pic. Get some better 6V ground cables also run one from the engine to the fire wall.ken ct.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

GO GET THE TRANSMISSION.... N*O*W.... From the guy down the street. you will not be sorry, you drive that 4 speed once around the block and crunch and crunch on the gears, you will want to make the change, to the passenger car/lt truck trans. and what was in your truck originally ?? and much nicer to drive, as for the shift handle, it can be change, or bent to your liking. and if you don't like the 39 car trans, you can sell the me for next nonthing, Ha-Ha.... as for the 4 speed; save the rear mount and coupling and the clutch shaft linkage, gut the gear box and us it for a wheel stand around the shop. .... OLD....BILL

Ha Ha you are the man Old Bill! Yeah the old guy has a nice looking 39 ford but they put a Buick V6 in it and some type of modern auto trans but he held onto the original trans that came out of it.

He has lots of old parts and just about everything is for a 39 Ford business coupe....couple of hoods, instrument panel etc.....I will go down there and take some pictures for you in the morning.

The only bad thing is the old guy knows nothing about working on these old engines...

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by ken ct

No you dont want the needles with the rubber tip. And is the strap on the cond. it should be behind the bolt head not behing the dist housing,at least it looks that way in the pic. Get some better 6V ground cables also run one from the engine to the fire wall.ken ct.

Hi Ken,

On the condenser I have it attached to the bolt on the distributor housing I think the picture just makes it look like I have it behind the housing.

I agree about the ground cables those things have probably been on there for decades......they were total green.....guess they are cooper or brass?

[Mike in AZ]

yeah, if you can get that transmission at a good price, get it....and that funny curved shifter??....probably worth 100 bucks or so by itself, if ebay is any indication.....175 for a repop....lots of good info on that link to help you ID the '39 transmission to be sure it is a '39, etc....good luck and keep having fun...Mike

[RBaker]

He said I could have that trans if I needed it....thats a good thing.

Today I really think my timing is off....I have great spark but its not even trying to start with starting fluid or fuel.

I think when I put the distributor back on I may have put the key in the slot 180 degrees.....thinking if I remove the distributor and turn the shaft 180 then reinstall it may be correct.

Has this happened to anyone before or does it sound like a stupid idea?

any thoughts?

[Cecil/WV]

It's very unlikely that it was on 180 off without cracking the dist housing.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Just get a ruler and time it. I posted the field-expedient method Ford had for those without machine or fixture for the 3-bolt distributors a few days back.

[Hoop]

This is where debate starts on distributor timing. For RBaker's current situation, can we agree that what he wants to do is get the engine running? HIGH PERFORMANCE tuning can wait.

OK?

RBaker, check the following:

1. Are your spark plug wires running to the correct plugs?

2. Did you set the points a .015? (You said .15, but think of course you really meant .015.)

3. Check the initial advance index on the right side, as it's installed, of the distributor and center the index in the middle of the scale.

4. If you checked the alignment of the distributor when you installed it, it should have slipped into place. If you had the tab 180 out, most likely you'd have broken off one of the mounting ears on the distributor. I saw a case recently ... the guy did not break off the ears but jammed the tab into the slot and broke the tab. You can look at the distributor shaft and the slot and tell which way the offsets are.

Those distributor settings are close enough to get the engine running. In fact, maybe for a long time. You can come back later and use Bruce's method or anything else available to fine tune things.

RBaker, flatheads can be easily flooded. Careful not to over-prime the carb ... won't start.

[OLD...BILL]

MR;BAKER; I don't think the dist is 180 out. I would bet the plug wires are plugged in wrong, we've all done it at times, you know late night and a 6pax or two. you pull the dist. and you can eye ball the drive grove and the slot, you can see it wrong or right. If I remember the plug-in terminal caps are numbered to the cylinder...review that great picture and information Tinker sent you.
When you get the trans, take pictures,both sides of top. then pull the top. 6 bolts, and more pictures inside, and we will tell you about the gears.
Hey Mike ..AZ. I thought we were buds, I'm trying to work a deal here, Ha-Ha and you start talking big about the trans and the shift lever.... whats up ? ...
NOTE; I DON'T NEED ANY PARTS ..... OLD....BILL ,,, but I do like pictures

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Hoop

This is where debate starts on distributor timing. For RBaker's current situation, can we agree that what he wants to do is get the engine running? HIGH PERFORMANCE tuning can wait.

OK?

RBaker, check the following:

1. Are your spark plug wires running to the correct plugs?

2. Did you set the points a .015? (You said .15, but think of course you really meant .015.)

3. Check the initial advance index on the right side, as it's installed, of the distributor and center the index in the middle of the scale.

4. If you checked the alignment of the distributor when you installed it, it should have slipped into place. If you had the tab 180 out, most likely you'd have broken off one of the mounting ears on the distributor. I saw a case recently ... the guy did not break off the ears but jammed the tab into the slot and broke the tab. You can look at the distributor shaft and the slot and tell which way the offsets are.

Those distributor settings are close enough to get the engine running. In fact, maybe for a long time. You can come back later and use Bruce's method or anything else available to fine tune things.

RBaker, flatheads can be easily flooded. Careful not to over-prime the carb ... won't start.

Hoop,

First thing in the morning I will double check my plug wires for correct location.....I did get it to run for several seconds yesterday.

I highly doubt I put the distributor in wrong after reading what you guys had to say....it seems to be working as it should.

Yesterday several times the engine started skipping quickly like it wanted to start then the big rumble and it ran for several seconds....sounded good!

Not once did it backfire into the carb or anything.....I did mention it is having carb trouble and I did not know flatheads were easy to flood....YES i did squirt a lot of fuel into the carb with a squirt bottle...also used a little starting fluid. I did wonder if I was flooding it and now I know I probably did.

Yes I have both sets of points set as close to .015 as possible.....should I try a different gap these are not new points but they look pretty darn good.

Plugs are set on .025.

I have two vacuum lines on my intake....one goes to the distributor then another one back near the fuel pump goes to NOTHING.....

When I turn the engine over the carb had very good suction.

I used this diagram to install my plug wires.

[RBaker]

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Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

MR;BAKER; I don't think the dist is 180 out. I would bet the plug wires are plugged in wrong, we've all done it at times, you know late night and a 6pax or two. you pull the dist. and you can eye ball the drive grove and the slot, you can see it wrong or right. If I remember the plug-in terminal caps are numbered to the cylinder...review that great picture and information Tinker sent you.
When you get the trans, take pictures,both sides of top. then pull the top. 6 bolts, and more pictures inside, and we will tell you about the gears.
Hey Mike ..AZ. I thought we were buds, I'm trying to work a deal here, Ha-Ha and you start talking big about the trans and the shift lever.... whats up ? ...
NOTE; I DON'T NEED ANY PARTS ..... OLD....BILL ,,, but I do like pictures

Dang it now you got me wanting to go out in the 100 degree heat right now to check them wires!! haha

I for sure will double check them....a friend of mine was out there with me yesterday and he was talking non stop when I was installing the wires so I might have put them on wrong.

[Bruce Lancaster]

The "nothing" line is for the vacuum wiper, and can just be plugged for now. That's another deep morass...

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

The "nothing" line is for the vacuum wiper, and can just be plugged for now. That's another deep morass...

Thanks, will plug that one up.

[Tinker]

I made a gravity tank for my truck in the beginning. Took a plastic tank, drilled a hole (smaller then the fitting) and screwed a fitting on it. The fitting had a rubber fuel line type connection on the end. Hung it in the cab on the passenger side. You can place it anywhere really as long as it's higher then the carb and away from the engine. Ran a hose to the carb.

Much easier then using a squirt bottle continuously.

[RBaker]

I worked on the old truck most of the day....had it where it was "trying to start" several times but just never would get to that point.

I felt the plugs were not getting a proper amount of fuel....no matter how much fuel I had go through the carb the plugs would pull out dry.

Spark to plugs is still excellent, plugs wires are all connected correctly....I decided I needed to take a closer look inside this engine so I removed the intake & heads this afternoon.

Heads looks good, block looks good and saw no cracks in the block near the valves or anywhere else.....pistons reveal .040 bore, Pistons fit tight in cylinders, cylinder walls are excellent with no ridge, valve springs and valves are working properly and look to be in pretty good shape. Carbon buildup was expected and noticeable in ports and on top of pistons. The intake must be some after market aluminum intake???

The only thing I did not like was the oil build up in the valve spring area and under the intake....it has the consistency of "cake frosting" just a light coating in those two areas.

My plans are to clean those areas with diesel fuel and a heavy bristle brush to remove the caked on oil residue.

Take into account this truck has been sitting in a barn since about 1975 so the caked on stuff should have been expected.....I probably should have taken it down like this first thing.

Should have it back together by the middle of next week.

[RBaker]

I'm thinking this oily caked on residue at the base of the valves was not allowing fuel to flow properly.....is this possible?

[Tinker]

Clean it all out being the head and intake are off. Are you looking to do a rebuild??

What are your plans???

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Clean it all out being the head and intake are off. Are you looking to do a rebuild??

What are your plans???

Hi Tinker,

No rebuild plans yet.....to me the engine looks pretty good inside and out except for the residue in the valve area and underside of intake.

I'm just going to clean it up really well....was told it ran excellent when parked but it was parked so long ago the pictures show the results...it's still not bad for sitting that long, luckily it was not outside in the weather.

I will repaint the heads and other things on the engine before I put it back together.

[Tinker]

Valve valley looks pretty junked up, what's the pan look like? You mentioned you had a compression check of 90 across the board (very nice).

Sounds like you were close to running the engine, just some carb trouble??

[Mike in AZ]

you can't seat the distributor onto the block correctly if it's 180 off....if it snugs down to the block, it's correct...otherwise you will break a the casting where the bolts go thru.....if you want to see about 180 off, check it out.....the mounting holes won't line up, either....i think what you're seeing under the intake is normal for old flatheads....old oil, etc. didn't do a good job of cleaning, so deposits are normal....sometimes could be 1/2" or more gunk on bottom of pan..sounds like you're getting close to getting it running....have fun and good luck...Mike

[Russ/40]

Well, now you've done it. Resist the urge to tear it down any further. You can clean the valley and the pan, but I would stop after that and put it back together. You were VERY close to getting it running. It looks good. Great find. Keep at getting it running. You CAN do it!

[Rowdy]

38, looks good here also, just one more project among way too many at times. My Model A Delivery is on the hot burner right now. Likely take me atleast 2 more years on it. Rod

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

you can't seat the distributor onto the block correctly if it's 180 off....if it snugs down to the block, it's correct...otherwise you will break a the casting where the bolts go thru.....if you want to see about 180 off, check it out.....the mounting holes won't line up, either....i think what you're seeing under the intake is normal for old flatheads....old oil, etc. didn't do a good job of cleaning, so deposits are normal....sometimes could be 1/2" or more gunk on bottom of pan..sounds like you're getting close to getting it running....have fun and good luck...Mike

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Well, now you've done it. Resist the urge to tear it down any further. You can clean the valley and the pan, but I would stop after that and put it back together. You were VERY close to getting it running. It looks good. Great find. Keep at getting it running. You CAN do it!

Nothing better than a little support from you guys! Thanks! The oil pan was filled with at least 3 gallons of diesel but the upper section of the engine never saw any of that.

After seeing the condition of the engine I see no need to tear it down any further but removing the gunk in the upper section will be my next project.

Plan to use a wire brush on my small grinder on the intake.

Yes Mike I finally figured out it was no way I could put the distributor on wrong.....I'm learning slowly. haha

[RBaker]

Would this be considered a "model 77" engine? No numbers are visible anywhere on the heads or the block other than the number "6" on each head.

[OLD...BILL]

OK Mr. Baker, I don.t see a thing that would keep the engine from running. and running good, I am sure you will it get clean inside and up-inside too. I would use a pressure washer, everywhere, and now you need to get some lube on the bone dry cam and lifters, before you start cranking, some ASSEMBLY LUBE would be best on the cam lobes and the lifter bottoms, it will not be easy with all the crank and rods in the way, but it is needed, some other good lubes, are Valvoline " Synpower" spry can or squirt some Marvel mystery oil up in the area, That area is normally supplied by splash,,,, no WG40 at this point.
Now with all that fresh paint, as you are ready to start. put a good squirt of MMO in each cylinder, and crank the engine over( cover the plug holes ) as it will splash, all over your new paint. now just a dab of fresh gas in each cylinder
now with plugs in and ready to start, run a hot wire from, the battery neg to the coil, and it will start, as it dose, pull the hot wire off the coil . Its a 4 volt coil ... and now its running .... good job. ... OLD...BILL

[RBaker]

Worked on the motor this morning and the more I dig into it the happier I get......did a major cleanup on that thin layer of old oil in the valve area.....used Zep citrus degreaser and diesel fuel to dissolve it....worked great! Drained the crankcase and put another gallon of diesel down through the engine.

I'm still amazed at the condition and see no need to rebuild.....checked the block/valve area for cracks and did not see any.....no past repairs either. Pistons are excellent!

Ordered my gaskets from Macs auto parts in New York....might be here by the end of the week.

Will add more pics as I progress.

[RBaker]

Before & After

[Tinker]

Looks great! Nicely done.

Did you get copper head gaskets?

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Looks great! Nicely done.

Did you get copper head gaskets?

Yes have the copper gaskets on the way....anything special need to be done when installing?

After today I'm glad I decided to remove the intake and heads.....the water ports in the heads and block were filled with "rust dust", after blowing air through them I think I finally got them clean.

[Tinker]

Personally, I use copper spray when installing. Torque, run engine till hot then torque again. 45lbs for cast iron and 35lbs for almunium (if I remember correctly).

If you don't have the torque procedure for the 21 I have it somewhere. I could scan and post it for you.

[billwill]

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[QUOTE=RBaker;58850]I guess one of my questions is....are both points suppose to spark when they open when the engine is turned overthe dis will go in one wayonly

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Personally, I use copper spray when installing. Torque, run engine till hot then torque again. 45lbs for cast iron and 35lbs for almunium (if I remember correctly).

If you don't have the torque procedure for the 21 I have it somewhere. I could scan and post it for you.

Thank you Tinker you and the other guys on here have been a great help. I decided to post pics of my progress so you guys could help me through each step.

I will pick me up some copper spray in the morning.

[RBaker]

[QUOTE=billwill;63408]

Originally Posted by RBaker

I guess one of my questions is....are both points suppose to spark when they open when the engine is turned overthe dis will go in one wayonly

Thanks Bill I got that figured out finally, haha

[ken ct]

I would not use the black intake manifold gasket from Mac's. Go to NAPA and get a Fel-Pro one [lite tan] I had to scrape off mac's small piece by piece its garbage. Sticks like cement to the manifold after only 3 yrs use. ken ct.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by ken ct

I would not use the black intake manifold gasket from Mac's. Go to NAPA and get a Fel-Pro one [lite tan] I had to scrape off mac's small piece by piece its garbage. Sticks like cement to the manifold after only 3 yrs use. ken ct.

Whew...luckily I did order the intake gasket from Napa it should be here in the morning.

I went to Napa, Carquest and Autozone to order the head gaskets but they all came back as not available so I found Macs online.

The pistons in this engine are aluminum did it always have aluminum pistons?

Guy down the road has a 1951 Flathead which he claims has steel pistons.

[flatjack9]

I have always installed my gaskets dry and never have a problem. Don't think I've ever seen a late engine with steel pistons. Ford did use steel pistons with steel liners starting in 38 and running through 41. Not all engines had steel pistons, aluminum was also used.

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I have always installed my gaskets dry and never have a problem. Don't think I've ever seen a late engine with steel pistons. Ford did use steel pistons with steel liners starting in 38 and running through 41. Not all engines had steel pistons, aluminum was also used.

Flatjack,i had big problem with an intake gasket from Mac's,put on dry 3 yrs ago and took me all day to remove from intake with a scraper and drill mounted skotch brite pads. Never again. Put on a fel-pro this time. ken ct.

[1952henry]

Originally Posted by RBaker

Yes have the copper gaskets on the way....anything special need to be done when installing?

After today I'm glad I decided to remove the intake and heads.....the water ports in the heads and block were filled with "rust dust", after blowing air through them I think I finally got them clean.

Unless it is together now, I would attack the ports with long screw drivers, cable, and anything you could use to reach in and scrape around. You would be suprised how much crud comes out. Even so-called hot tanked engines give up a tremendous amount. Nothing like a clean block to help with keeping temps down.

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by ken ct

Flatjack,i had big problem with an intake gasket from Mac's,put on dry 3 yrs ago and took me all day to remove from intake with a scraper and drill mounted skotch brite pads. Never again. Put on a fel-pro this time. ken ct.

I guess I wasn't clear, but I was talking about the copper head gaskets.

[ken ct]

Oh,ok. ken ct.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by 1952henry

Unless it is together now, I would attack the ports with long screw drivers, cable, and anything you could use to reach in and scrape around. You would be suprised how much crud comes out. Even so-called hot tanked engines give up a tremendous amount. Nothing like a clean block to help with keeping temps down.

You got that right Henry!.....I made a long tube out of small copper pipe that attaches to my air hose I have been cleaning the inside of the block and heads for two days. Today I put water in the ports on the head and let it drain from the water pumps.....tomorrow I will blow more air inside until I have it as clean as possible. Looks pretty clean inside now but that rust would have caused issues in my radiator for sure.

Probably be this weekend before I have the engine back together I had to order a new fuel pump push rod....might as well replace that while the intake is off.

[OLD...BILL]

More cleaning to do, the area around outside the cylinders in the water jacket area, all that "STUFF" that came out of the head, there is a ton more down there, use your air gun with lone snout and your shop-vac. you will get a cloud of rustie dustie and some chunks or rust "stuff", AND some casting sand YES casting sand in there from day one.
all displaces water, also moves with the water to the radiator, not good. Clean as you go.
and as:"Tinker says" run it, get it hot, and re-torque .....not.. Bill.... the other ....OLD....BILL and did you get that trans? if not go get it as you wait for parts, and PAINT... He..He..

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

More cleaning to do, the area around outside the cylinders in the water jacket area, all that "STUFF" that came out of the head, there is a ton more down there, use your air gun with lone snout and your shop-vac. you will get a cloud of rustie dustie and some chunks or rust "stuff", AND some casting sand YES casting sand in there from day one.
all displaces water, also moves with the water to the radiator, not good. Clean as you go.
and as:"Tinker says" run it, get it hot, and re-torque .....not.. Bill.... the other ....OLD....BILL and did you get that trans? if not go get it as you wait for parts, and PAINT... He..He..

Hey Old Bill,

I made a visit to the old timers house today and he gave me a few things....I did do some paint work for the old man in the past and I also think he is just plain excited about my 1938 truck....he wants to see it driving down the road.

He had no idea the trans had a serial number on it but I got that and some pics....and several other pics to share.

The serial number is 18-5573305

[RBaker]

The old timer throws NOTHING away.

[RBaker]

This was the most exciting thing he gave me....1938 Tennessee license plate original. That will look good on the front of the truck.

[RBaker]

Some pics of his car....the inside has leather seats etc...modern steering wheel and A/C. The engine is a Buick V6 with auto trans.....sorry it was a tight fit could not get better pictures.

[RBaker]

He gave me this steering wheel.....I was thinking it might work in my truck but it's a lot different. He said you turned the lights on with the dial in the middle of the steering wheel....my truck does not have that. The locking mechanism and key switch are different than whats on the truck too.

Only thing I can use off it is the cup on the end of the shaft...mine is missing on the truck.

[RBaker]

My truck steering to compare to the one he gave me.

[flatjack9]

The serial number on the trans makes it a 1940.

[OLD...BILL]

You did have a good day, please take the top off the trans, and show us the gears, ( pictures) ..The trans is the best for your truck, very desirable, and with two detente shift tower, top of the line, our hats off to the old man, for being a good neighbor. Its to bad he has this affliction, save everything, we on the "Barn" never heard of it, save,and keep it stuff. whats up with that ?? he ha.. ha.. thank, the old man from us on the barn ... OLD....BILL

[ken ct]

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Originally Posted by RBaker

He gave me this steering wheel.....I was thinking it might work in my truck but it's a lot different. He said you turned the lights on with the dial in the middle of the steering wheel....my truck does not have that. The locking mechanism and key switch are different than whats on the truck too.

Only thing I can use off it is the cup on the end of the shaft...mine is missing on the truck.

Thats a 36 wheel and columb assembly. ken ct.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

The serial number on the trans makes it a 1940.

Great! the old timer was only off by one year. thanks!

Originally Posted by ken ct

Thats a 36 wheel and columb assembly. ken ct.

Well that explains why it looks so different....he was thinking it was from a 39. Thanks Ken

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

You did have a good day, please take the top off the trans, and show us the gears, ( pictures) ..The trans is the best for your truck, very desirable, and with two detente shift tower, top of the line, our hats off to the old man, for being a good neighbor. Its to bad he has this affliction, save everything, we on the "Barn" never heard of it, save,and keep it stuff. whats up with that ?? he ha.. ha.. thank, the old man from us on the barn ... OLD....BILL

Sent you mail Old Bill.....I will take the top off today if I have time and snap some pictures.
What should I be looking for?? Broken/worn teeth etc??

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by RBaker

This was the most exciting thing he gave me....1938 Tennessee license plate original. That will look good on the front of the truck.

Great plate, would love to find one for mine. You might be able to use this plate as your vehicle plate. DMV would have the form. Sometimes you have to have a county correct number prefix, but I don't know if they did that in 38?

Good score on the transmission. He sounds like a great guy to have as a neighbor. Bet he has some great stories as well.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Great plate, would love to find one for mine. You might be able to use this plate as your vehicle plate. DMV would have the form. Sometimes you have to have a county correct number prefix, but I don't know if they did that in 38?

Good score on the transmission. He sounds like a great guy to have as a neighbor. Bet he has some great stories as well.

I read your post last night and checked on that today with the DMV you are correct!
That is pretty darn cool I would have never known that unless you mentioned it.

The man has at least 100 or more plates at his house....mostly southern states.

[Tinker]

Just checking in to see how things are going.

[OLD...BILL]

Ron; Says he is saving his strength for long weekend coming up, been loaded down with extra O.T. at work. maybe we will see inside that trans? I ask for tooth count, we should be seeing some new paint too. What I want to see is a picture of that big smile when he hears it start and run for the first time, something like a "cheshire cat " ... OLD....BILL

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Just checking in to see how things are going.

Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

Ron; Says he is saving his strength for long weekend coming up, been loaded down with extra O.T. at work. maybe we will see inside that trans? I ask for tooth count, we should be seeing some new paint too. What I want to see is a picture of that big smile when he hears it start and run for the first time, something like a "cheshire cat " ... OLD....BILL

Howdy,

I was not home all weekend and was kind of at a stand still waiting for my head gaskets.....Tuesday they were delivered and by afternoon I had them installed.....painted the engine, made a new copper fuel line from fuel pump to carb and various other small things.

Will probably try to fire it up again Friday.....will also add new pics in the morning of the painted engine.

Today I was busy installing a fuel tank in a friends 1951 ford car and new fuel lines.

He had the old tank boiled out at the radiator shop but it had several rust holes....I used fiberglass to seal the holes then sprayed the whole tank with undercoating.

We got the tank in this evening and drove the old car around the horse pasture.....his old flathead has some power!

[RBaker]

Today was a great day......I felt like a 10 year old again and it was like it was Christmas eve!!

The old truck finally fired up for me.......after adjusting the points and a little carb work the old engine let loose!! To me it sounds very good.....

I want to thank each and every one of you for the help and advice.....I cant tell you how much it helped me get this old engine running!

Oh what a feeling!!!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsCyVoR2tTY

[Tinker]

Fun stuff, thanks for the video.

[Cecil/WV]

That's music to my ears!!! Great!!

[RBaker]

Oh yes I am very pleased with the engine.......It actually runs way better than I expected.
In the video that was the second time it had ever been started.. I gave it to much choke and almost flooded it.

Today I went out in the garage....closed the choke half way.....tapped the starter and it fired up in seconds!

It will sit there and purr at a slow idle....no smoke, no oil burning. The smoke in the video was from the manifolds that had lubricant on them.