1938 Ford truck distributor

[82ndscotty]

Originally Posted by RBaker

I guess one of my questions is....are both points suppose to spark when they open when the engine is turned over?

no one opens circuit the other closes it (to give you more dwell) Scotty

[RBaker]

I had a private message from a guy wanting to see the transmission....the numbers 51-7006.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by 82ndscotty

no one opens circuit the other closes it (to give you more dwell) Scotty

Thanks, that confused me for several days until I joined this site yesterday....what a relief.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Basically, the "extra" right point closes before the left one could close after firing. The early closing (only one needs to be closed to complete circuit) allows more charging time/dwell for the coil to recover for the next shot.
Cycle is thus:
Both points open, 9 degrees after firing
then
right point closes and stays closed 22 1/2 degrees...coils starts loading
Left point closes 9 degrees before the right opens,stays closed 22 1/2
right point opens...coil continues to charge
then left opens, coil fires, repeat.
Both must be open to fire coil, but only one needs to be closed to charge the coil, so that's how the overlap helps.
Hope I got the cycle right...easier to follow if you rotate a distributor and watch than it is talking about it!
I posted field-expedient timing method on here recently I think.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Basically, the "extra" right point closes before the left one could close after firing. The early closing (only one needs to be closed to complete circuit) allows more charging time/dwell for the coil to recover for the next shot.
Cycle is thus:
Both points open, 9 degrees after firing
then
right point closes and stays closed 22 1/2 degrees...coils starts loading
Left point closes 9 degrees before the right opens,stays closed 22 1/2
right point opens...coil continues to charge
then left opens, coil fires, repeat.
Both must be open to fire coil, but only one needs to be closed to charge the coil, so that's how the overlap helps.
Hope I got the cycle right...easier to follow if you rotate a distributor and watch than it is talking about it!
I posted field-expedient timing method on here recently I think.

Ahhh now it all makes sense to me.....I had a socket on the flywheel and I cant tell you how many times I slowly turned that engine over watching each set of points waiting for both to spark.

I cleaned the "other" set of points at least 20 times trying to get spark.

Glad to know today it is working as it should....I'm not sure how old that coil is but the darn thing is still working..... the coil says FORD on it.

[Mike in Mass]

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I heard an "old guy" say " eveyone likes the 35 -6- 7 ford trucks. the 38 an 9s are the ugly step sisters ! I don,t like my Ugly stepsister, but I love my 39! ! ! It is still in pieces in my celler but it,s almost ready to see the light of day agan !

[ken ct]

Originally Posted by RBaker

Hi,
Been working on getting this old engine running for a couple of weeks....engine turns over great....about 90lbs of pressure in each cylinder.

My problem is this weird distributor.....I removed it, cleaned the points, new condenser, set points to .15 etc...put it back on and can get spark on the right side points when I turn the engine clockwise with a wrench on the flywheel.....but the left side points will not spark unless I turn the engine counter clockwise.

When I say right side I mean when I'm looking at the front of the engine.

Is it possible when I replaced the distributor I put it in completely opposite of how it came out?....I did not mark the distributor when I removed it so I guess I messed up the timing?

I did not turn the motor over with the distributor removed.

This is an early 38 with the 21 stud motor....Eggshell or helmet distributor from what I have found online.

This is how it looked when I got it....it has been cleaned up since then.

Hard to make out but you may have the wrong rotor in there,would need better shot from the side more with the caps off. Also the cap on pic rt side dosent look like its on fully[gap at the bottom of photo] Rotor must have steps on both ends [like stair steps] to be correct. the smooth ones are for 34-36 not 37 up. Pin spacings are diff on the inner plate. ken ct.

[soder33]

I Just rebuilt a 1937 21 stud to stock specs. See video

[soder33]

Something didn't work so I will try again.

http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1307.flv


http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1313.flv

[Cecil/WV]

It worked for me!

[OLD...BILL]

Mr Baker: I hope your having as much fun, as we reading what your doing, YES the 21 stud is a keeper....and what I see of your work, it going to be a truck to be proud of... must get the Ford green engine paint ...
Now the flip lever on the trans shift lever. you will need to pull it up/with your thumb, to put the trans in reverse. I don't remember is it up to the dash or down to the seat?
Give me a break, it was 1941/42 war years all the men were gone, as a 10 year old boy I was put to work, the truck we had was ether 38 or 39 We did take the sides off the hood to keep it cool in the summer.
Please tell us how good it sounds when it comes back to live .... OLD...BILL

[jerry grayson]

Originally Posted by RBaker

Thanks....only thing missing is the tailgate.

I also have a question about the trans.....would it be a 4 speed? It has a switch as if it would have a 2 speed rear.

The number on the housing is 51-7006.....other side is a 78C stamp.

Yes that is a 4 speed and it did not come from the factory in that truck. Look at the metal transmission cover and you will notice that it has been "trimmed" to fit the 1 1/2 ton big truck transmission. Look through the slot in the floorboard or if you have removed it look on the spot on the transmission that would line up with the slot and you will see a serial number. This number should be the same as the number on the frame next to the steering box. Since the transmission is a later replacement, the two number will not be the same. If you will post the number on the transmission someone will tell you the year of it.
Good start on a nice pickup!!
BTW, the "switch" or lever on the stick is the reverse lockout. Pull it up to get in reverse.

[Rowdy]

Way ahead of me also. May have to sell both later this fall. Rod

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by ken ct

Hard to make out but you may have the wrong rotor in there,would need better shot from the side more with the caps off. Also the cap on pic rt side dosent look like its on fully[gap at the bottom of photo] Rotor must have steps on both ends [like stair steps] to be correct. the smooth ones are for 34-36 not 37 up. Pin spacings are diff on the inner plate. ken ct.

Hi Ken,
That pic was taken when I pulled it from the barn..I have cleaned it up since then I have the caps fitting tight. The rotor does have step type brass points on it but the picture did not get that part. Do you think i need to replace that rotor it has been on there at least 40 to 50 years but it looks "ok"?

Originally Posted by soder33

Something didn't work so I will try again.

http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1307.flv


http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=100_1313.flv

That is one sweet engine...started right up when you touched the starter and is sounds so good! Gives me something to dream about.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by OLD...BILL

Mr Baker: I hope your having as much fun, as we reading what your doing, YES the 21 stud is a keeper....and what I see of your work, it going to be a truck to be proud of... must get the Ford green engine paint ...
Now the flip lever on the trans shift lever. you will need to pull it up/with your thumb, to put the trans in reverse. I don't remember is it up to the dash or down to the seat?
Give me a break, it was 1941/42 war years all the men were gone, as a 10 year old boy I was put to work, the truck we had was ether 38 or 39 We did take the sides off the hood to keep it cool in the summer.
Please tell us how good it sounds when it comes back to live .... OLD...BILL

Thanks Old Bill,
I already love the truck and plan to keep it like it is.....I was wondering about reverse and now I know!! Does that mean you can use reverse in all gears when you lift the lever or just when you lift the lever and put it in 1st?

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Rowdy

Way ahead of me also. May have to sell both later this fall. Rod

39 or 38? Looks real good to me!

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by jerry grayson

Yes that is a 4 speed and it did not come from the factory in that truck. Look at the metal transmission cover and you will notice that it has been "trimmed" to fit the 1 1/2 ton big truck transmission. Look through the slot in the floorboard or if you have removed it look on the spot on the transmission that would line up with the slot and you will see a serial number. This number should be the same as the number on the frame next to the steering box. Since the transmission is a later replacement, the two number will not be the same. If you will post the number on the transmission someone will tell you the year of it.
Good start on a nice pickup!!
BTW, the "switch" or lever on the stick is the reverse lockout. Pull it up to get in reverse.

After reading your comment I went straight to the garage with pen and paper and you hit the nail on the head!

I can read the serial number on the frame next to the steering box and it does not match this trans number.

Trans number BB18-2216590 clear as day.

[Tinker]

Reverse is all the way over right and down. To get into reverse use the trigger. It's an H pattern for forward gears and all the way right for reverse. 1st is up left and follow through for the rest of the gears.

Post some video when you get it started, if you will. Very cool truck.

[RBaker]

I worked on it about 4 hours today and had a few minor problems......I got my fuel line connected from the pump to the carb with new fittings and hose. I went to Napa, Carquest and autozone none of them had 18mm plugs for the engine but I finally found some at TSC....Autolite 386.

I got a "cut to size" set of 7mm plug wires from carquest also......my points have great spark but when I installed the plug wires and plugs I notice the spark to the plugs was very weak when I grounded the plug to the block....it was tiny.

I also noticed some type of engine ground wire going from the cylinder head to the firewall on the cab....I may need to clean this well??

Should the condenser be grounded to the block?? It is connected to the coil but has some type of other piece hanging down like it needs to be connected to a bolt.

Good spark to the points but weak spark to the plugs that is my issue now.....the rotor and both caps on the distributor that you connect the plug wires to are the ones that were already on it....I have not put in new points ,caps or rotor I just cleaned them up very well.

[RBaker]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Reverse is all the way over right and down. To get into reverse use the trigger. It's an H pattern for forward gears and all the way right for reverse. 1st is up left and follow through for the rest of the gears.

Post some video when you get it started, if you will. Very cool truck.

Thanks Tinker,

Yes I will make a video when I get it running.....I'm getting real close I think!