motor temp.

[flatjack9]

Another way is to pull the hose and check it.

[BrianCT]

The best thing about an electric fan is that at road speed you can turn it off.
That saves energy.
I still would not use one on an old Ford.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Mike51Merc

You want to see wasted heat? Every time you step on your brake pedal.

Unless, of course, you have an electric car that actually uses the motors to slow the car down and recharge the batteries at the same time. See here: http://www.nissanusa.com/leaf-electr...the_new_brakes

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Thermostats like the ones posted by Henry will cause the engine to run much hotter in 90 degree out side temperatures do to less coolant flow. This reduced flow is from the small opening that the coolant must flow through, it takes a full hose flow actually forced through the radiator to cool these engines properly. I tested and posted the resultsof these small stats years ago. Even on Mr Coool my 39 P/U that ran for over 2 hours at a fast idle at a National V/8 show for hundreds to see on a day that was over 100 degrees and never got to 180 ran hotter with that type stats. I used 160 stats like the ones pictured and drilled 8 .140 holes in the flange of each to try to increase the flow and moving down the road it ran at 190 to 195. Under the same conditions with no stats it runs at 170 to 175. The new stats that Bob Shewman [email protected] is making are heavy duty all brass and copper 180 degree. I have tested them down here in Florida for the past 5 months in temperatures from 50 to 90 degrees. I carry a laser thermometer and test the fuel pump temperture as well as the coolant at the outlet of both heads every time I stop. EVERYTIME I check the head temps both are within 2 or3 degrees of each other and between 178 and 182. As far as the Purple Ice causing a temperature drop yes you can see it drop the coolant temp BUT this drop will only be seen upon the first time it is used. I observed the drop on the first time I used it. This was on my 33 phaeton which would go to 229 and spit a gallon of coolant everytime. I bought 2 bottle of P.I. and started testing, it got to 217 and I though to myself that was a waste of money. The temp sat at 217 for about 15 minutes and slowly started comming down to 207. That is where it stayed everytime I ran it. Not satisfied with 207 I finially made made a impeller that pumped 92 gallons in 5 minutes compared to 55 gallons in 5 minutes with the stock impeller on a pump test machine. I only made one and put it in the right pump on the 33. Started it up and the right side of the engine dropped to 185 and the left stayed at 207. Swapped pumps and the left dropped to 185 and the right back up to 207. That was the start of Skips high volume pumps which several thousand people with old Fords have solved their running hot problem and many have posted their results on this forum. The tests and results I post are from years of solving problems for others, not one car results with no posted accurite temperatures. G.M.

G.M. I don't know if you noticed but the OP's problem is not overheating but underheating. I don't see your ideas helping much with that. They address an overheating problem, not underheating.

[46ford]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Even though the electric cars may seem to "waste" a lot of energy converting it so many times, tests and calculations have been done to equate their energy usage with gasoline engines. Here are the results in equivalent mpg for the Nissan Leaf (totally electric), the Chevy Volt (plug in hybrid) and hybrids. Taken from the April 2012 annual auto issue of Consumer Reports.

What you see on that chart is that, even with any inefficiencies in the various energy conversions, the energy is still made much more efficiently in a big power plant transferred to the electric motor in the car than in a little gasoline engine. The major downside of totally electric is how far you can drive on a battery charge - usually about 100 miles then 7 hours charging before that far again.

Well said Henry. I drove an all-electric for awhile, sure do miss $15 a month to get to and from work every day.

[sturgis 39]

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I have a Eimco mine locomotive that runs on compressed air. It is pretty neat. I have a gasoline air compressor (75cfm) to fill the the air tank on the locomotive. The pressure is about 120 pounds at the compressor and less than 120 lbs at the tank. It takes about 10 minutes to fill the tank. The locomotive will go down the track and back one one tank of air which kind of depends on the number of cars connected to the locomotive. When the tank pressure gets down to 20 pounds, the train moves pretty slow. The last 20 pound of air pressure is almost a waste. Now if I took the gasoline motor out of the compressor and installed a transmission and mounted it on the locomotive I would be a lot better off. The air locomotive makes such neat sounds that this will never happen. The reason for the air powered locomotives is air was used for drilling in the mines and diesels fouled the air even with scrubbers.

I appreciate the chart above. The car does not get 106 miles to the gallon. They did not include the plug in energy. They are not telling the whole story.

[al pa.]

My thermostats were installed with additional hose clamps ABOVE the thermostats,just snugged enough to slightly compress the hoses against the rim of the thermostats.

[Mike51Merc]

Sturgis wrote "I appreciate the chart above. The car does not get 106 miles to the gallon. They did not include the plug in energy. They are not telling the whole story.[/QUOTE]

Yes, they are. Which is why they put asterisks next to the numbers for MPGe.

Seems from your posts that you are not a big fan of electric cars. Ever wonder why train locomotives have been diesel-electric for the last 60 or so years?

[jan bogert]

don't know whats up! went to a nother cruize today. pulling up the alley to my property, both temp. guages l/right at 180. got out to open up my garage, got back in to put car in the garage temp. around 186. so i sat there and the temp climbed to 195, the stats didn't open. i then put the car away. i'll look at it again tomarow, its going near 90 degrees tomarow. i got them from speedway. i think speedway jinxed me again. went thru two of there master cyls. spongie pedal. last weekend i put the same one 70 mustang one on my car from NAPA beatiful solid pedal. its true YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!!!!

[flatjack9]

Yes, they are. Which is why they put asterisks next to the numbers for MPGe.

Seems from your posts that you are not a big fan of electric cars. Ever wonder why train locomotives have been diesel-electric for the last 60 or so years?[/QUOTE]
The reason they are diesel electric is that the electric motor develops maximum torque at stall speed. This is needed to get all that mass moving efficiently.

[sturgis 39]

Originally Posted by Mike51Merc

Sturgis wrote "I appreciate the chart above. The car does not get 106 miles to the gallon. They did not include the plug in energy. They are not telling the whole story.

Yes, they are. Which is why they put asterisks next to the numbers for MPGe.

Seems from your posts that you are not a big fan of electric cars. Ever wonder why train locomotives have been diesel-electric for the last 60 or so years?[/QUOTE

I am not a fan of electric cars because they are not fuel efficient no matter what the manufactures claim or the reports from consumer reports. Work equals force times distance. The more weight from batteries and electic motors and generators can only require more power to go down the road. You have to charge and 12 volt battery with about 13.5 volts. I am not sure but I think electric cars run on 60 some volts. The batteries need to probably charge at or around 70 volts. The batteries are probably shut down when voltage drops some where below sixty volts because the amps would probably be too high for the electric cables and probably damage the drive motors. I am no expert on electric cars but just common sense makes me believe consumers are being snookered.

The trains are diesel electric because of power train issues. The wheels are driven by electric motors through planetary gears. They would have to have large transmission and real large drive shafts. Large coal hauling trucks have exceeded the capacity of mechanical drive lines too. Caterpillar has recently purchased Westinghouse Air Brake Company -WABCO- for their electric haul power system. It is not because they are efficient fuel wise but because of power transmission problems to the drive wheels.

You sure are welcome to your opinions and I appreciate your interest in this issue. I know my thinking will not change and your probably will not change your thinking.

[Henry/Kokomo]

Minor point - and I'm not too sure how germaine it is. The vast majority of diesel - electric locomotives have the traction motor direct geared to the individual drive axle, one motor per axle. The motor has a pinion gear, usually 12 to 15 teeth, and the axle has a bull gear, usually 60 to 70 teeth. There's no planetary transmission involved.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by sturgis 39

I appreciate the chart above. The car does not get 106 miles to the gallon. They did not include the plug in energy. They are not telling the whole story.

If you look at the chart again, the 106 MPGe does include the plug in energy. In fact, that's all it includes since it is a totally electric car - no gasoline engine at all. So, the 106 MPGe is the cost of electricity per mile that is equal to the cost of gas to go the same distance. Therefore, cheaper to run energy wise.

The car you're refering to that plugs in and has the gasoline engine (the plug-in hybrid) is the Chevrolet Volt that is only rated at 61 mpg as a composite of electric and gasoline operation. (See asterisks and footnotes)

[Mike51Merc]

Originally Posted by sturgis 39

I am not a fan of electric cars because they are not fuel efficient no matter what the manufactures claim or the reports from consumer reports. Work equals force times distance. The more weight from batteries and electic motors and generators can only require more power to go down the road. You have to charge and 12 volt battery with about 13.5 volts. I am not sure but I think electric cars run on 60 some volts. The batteries need to probably charge at or around 70 volts. The batteries are probably shut down when voltage drops some where below sixty volts because the amps would probably be too high for the electric cables and probably damage the drive motors. I am no expert on electric cars but just common sense makes me believe consumers are being snookered.

You sure are welcome to your opinions and I appreciate your interest in this issue. I know my thinking will not change and your probably will not change your thinking.

Sturgis:
You're welcome to your opinion as well, but not your own facts. My opinion is subject to change based on facts, not the other way around. Sorry to hear that your opinion is unchangeable regardless of facts. Common sense is no substitute for science and engineering.

Electric cars aren't perfect, but what is?

[Mike51Merc]

Originally Posted by jan bogert

don't know whats up! went to a nother cruize today. pulling up the alley to my property, both temp. guages l/right at 180. got out to open up my garage, got back in to put car in the garage temp. around 186. so i sat there and the temp climbed to 195, the stats didn't open. i then put the car away. i'll look at it again tomarow, its going near 90 degrees tomarow. i got them from speedway. i think speedway jinxed me again. went thru two of there master cyls. spongie pedal. last weekend i put the same one 70 mustang one on my car from NAPA beatiful solid pedal. its true YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!!!!

Jan,
Your experience sounds normal to me. When you parked the car, the coolant (and the air through the radiator) stopped flowing and the engine got "heat soaked". If your thermostats were still closed, you'd have an Old Faithful geyser in your driveway.

[G.M.]

There's not going to be a useful electric car untill there are batteries that will work. All we hear is talk of NEW battery's for years but distance in electric cars run on battery power has not improved much. The electric cars and trucks GM made a number of years ago and utility companies used were all recalled and destroyed. I have a friend that somehow got 2 S-10 type trucks. The batteries are shot. He found a place out West that would replace them for $11,000 plus you have to deliver them and pick up when done. Panasonic had the patent and one of the oil companies bought it and the story I got they wouldn't allow them to be made in USA. The DC gets coverted back and forth to AC and the electric drive motor is in the range of 340 volts. The mechanics were impressive. It even has a diesel fueled hot air heater for the batteries. They also had a repair and electrical book about 3/4" thick with them. They had large electric trucks that ran all over the city of Philadelphia in the 30's and 40's for a number of large companies that worked for years. Curtis Publishing was one and the Inquire news paper was another. G.M.

[Tinker]

Go get a Infrared temperature tester from a hardware store. They are fairly cheap. It will let you know what the engine temp really is. Also you can check the radiator for blockage, top of radiator vs bottom, front to back engine bank, temp at hoses...

I found that my engine runs about 5-10 degrees hotter then the waterpump mounted sender (36 21bolt flatty).

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by G.M.

I have a friend that somehow got 2 S-10 type trucks. The batteries are shot. He found a place out West that would replace them for $11,000 plus you have to deliver them and pick up when done.

Now there's a "hidden cost" I hadn't thought about until I read the fine print at the end of the Nissan Leaf video that said how the storage capacity of the batteries would decrease over time. That makes sense. Every rechargeable battery I've ever had eventually lost it's ability to store electricity and had to be replaced. Apparently the same for electric cars. That can't be good. Caveat emptor! (Look it up.)

[TomO]

Jan, You did not tell us the year of your engine. The early years with the water pumps on the heads use one type of thermostat, the middle years to 1948, use another and the 49-53 use another.

If you have a 37-48 engine and use the 49-53 thermostats, they will pop out of the heads and turn sideways in the hoses. Other years have different problems. A hose clamp will not stop this unless it is tightened enough to cut the hose.

Driving in the summer months should not require thermostats. They are very useful in the cold months to get the engine warmed up quickly and prevent sludge. In the summer the engine should get to a normal 160-180 range quickly and thermostats are not needed.

On electric and hybrid cars: We subsidized the research to build the Volt, subsidize the purchase price, subsidize the infrastructure changes need to supply electricity to them, allow them to drive on our roads without paying the equivalent of a gasoline tax and when the batteries are no longer useful, a subsidy to destroy what is left of the car.

If they are so good, why do we have to provide all of the subsidies?

I would like to see a report on the percentage of older hybrids that have had their batteries replaced and still on the road.

[Tinker]

Since we've moved this thread to electric cars. I once looked into converting my mod-a over to full electric. Start gasping now! Note it was a mod-ed A that was already mod-ed. Wanting to keep most of the drive line, just a motor swap.

After talking to a company, close by, that does 60's VWs...

This is what I found out.
Gearing is very important. Electric motors don't like high rpms. So that meant a driveline swap. Although the company could cnc an adaptor to the A transmission, in the end it would have been detrimental and it would no longer be what it is.

Batteries are expensive. Lithium even more (great for weight and space issues.)
Looking at a tire burner (and believe me you can smoke the tires with electric,) with a range of 100 miles in single charge. The base battery cost was 6k. Lithiums were much more (I don't recall the amount, sorry.)

A battery pack will take recharge up to 3000 times, batteries being discharged below a 20% charge. So if you use it a lot you will be buying batteries in 4-5 yrs if not sooner.

All said and done, the conversion would have cost around 18k (motor, batteries, controller, adaptor, etc). You may ask why would you even consider doing this. Like I said it was mod-ed already and my brain is always curious to what the possibilities are. There is cheaper ways to do the conversion, I just went to a shop that was already doing them for vw's and volvo's.

Still have my banger and love it, but it would have been interesting...