? for the use of helicoils on head boults

[merc40]

broke 12 capbolts on my 8ba. icant belive it. im going to drill an try get them out. will helicoils if i fail on some of them. the engine is very rusty inside. any info. is needed . i know flathead man has the answer. reguards dick t.

[Mike in AZ]

i think one of the best solutions is to weld a washer to top of bolt....then weld nut to that....usually the heat, etc. helps to loosen the bolts....good luck....lots of penetrating oil.....Mike

[Binx]

If you have time on your side, I'd look for a better block. Type in "searchtempest" from google. Fill in the blocks and check it every few days. You will eventually find a better one.

Lonnie

[Tim Brown]

Hey Dick, I had several busted off head bolts in one of my blocks. I took it to TAP REMOVAL SERVICE in Concord CA and he got them all out. He is at 925 676-0444 and was very reasonable.... Tim in Colfax..

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by Mike in AZ

i think one of the best solutions is to weld a washer to top of bolt....then weld nut to that....usually the heat, etc. helps to loosen the bolts....good luck....lots of penetrating oil.....Mike

Works like a charm. There is also special welding rod for this but not essential.

[ford1]

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heli coils are not the best way to go for head bolt repair, go with time sert, stronger repair

[B-O-B]

Best check it for soundness before spending a lot of time & monies don'cha think???

[rotorwrench]

The old broken pieces can be removed by a machine shop that has the equipment for sonic break up of the old piece. If it is broken flush, welding on washer and a nut is the best you can do at home. Those bolts ar very hard and don't respond well to even a cobalt bit twisting into them. Sonic removal s the best method.

[Ol' Ron]

I have a friend that blows them out with a torch, doesn't hurt the threads. Yes I use heli coils, never had a problem with them.

[Ronnie]

Here is a page to read.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

R

[Pete]

Helicoil, Timesert and steel plug inserts all work fine, as long as they are
installed in a mill or with a fixture to hold the tools at 90 degrees to the surface....They are all worthless if installed crooked.

[merc40]

thanks to all i will let keep you posted . im gowing the washer an nut route. to tim brown incolfax don"t forget grass valley downtown car showthe 28 th.. reguards to all dick t.

[Fe26]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I have a friend that blows them out with a torch, doesn't hurt the threads. Yes I use heli coils, never had a problem with them.

I like doing this with an audience, especially my mechanic and engine builder. Guys are incredulous when I tell them what I'm about to do. They are convinced I'm about to harm the block (I'm not). I prefer to use the long cutting torch as the molten debris has nowhere to go except up, and very rapidly at that, and I like to be well back. It's a spectacular show and there is minimal cleanup of the threads. I move the torch around in the hole and then use a scribe to pick little bits of stubborn stuff out of the threads, then use a blast of pure oxygen to blow all debris out of the hole. I reckon I do each hole in maybe two minutes.

I've yet to try the washer and nut method, I'm not convinced you need to TIG the washer on imo any good weld will do. The advantage I see in this method is a cleaner hole, and less drama with the torch.

I also have never had a problem with Helicoils (stronger than original threadforms). Perhaps the poster who said not to use them would be kind enough to explain to us why they are unsuitable.

[rotorwrench]

Originally Posted by fordgarage

Kerby
I've yelled and cursed at them profusely to no effect.
Please elaborate. What is sonic removal? I've never heard of it.
Do you mean EDM? That's definitely not sonic.

If you google sonic disintegrator you will find manufactureres and vendors of the equipment and the shops that use it. This equipment has been used by machine shops for quite a while now to remove broken taps & screw extractors plus the old bolt & stud pieces that they were trying to remove. The process generally uses a coolant liquid to disperse the fragments as they are desolved by the transducer rod.

[1952henry]

Originally Posted by Fe26

I like doing this with an audience, especially my mechanic and engine builder. Guys are incredulous when I tell them what I'm about to do. They are convinced I'm about to harm the block (I'm not). I prefer to use the long cutting torch as the molten debris has nowhere to go except up, and very rapidly at that, and I like to be well back. It's a spectacular show and there is minimal cleanup of the threads. I move the torch around in the hole and then use a scribe to pick little bits of stubborn stuff out of the threads, then use a blast of pure oxygen to blow all debris out of the hole. I reckon I do each hole in maybe two minutes.

I've yet to try the washer and nut method, I'm not convinced you need to TIG the washer on imo any good weld will do. The advantage I see in this method is a cleaner hole, and less drama with the torch.

I also have never had a problem with Helicoils (stronger than original threadforms). Perhaps the poster who said not to use them would be kind enough to explain to us why they are unsuitable.

Yeah, I've run into people bashing helicoils on different threads before. I can't recall any specific reasons given for the bashing. I've used them in manifolds and Holley and Stromberg carb bodies as well as the cast iron bases. No problems!! Didn't even use a mill.

[Brian]

A little trick when using helicoils to repair stripped block threads; Run the helicoil tap through the appropriate hole in a spare cyl head, then install the head on engine block, and use it as a guide to ensure your helicoil thread is cut square and in the correct place. Doing it this way eliminate need for a mill or similar to ensure tap goes in square. Brian

[Karl Wolf]

Brian nails it with the guide idea... I've used a wood block, also, less stress tapping thru a cyl head... Helicoil is a real good repair for a lot of things, but watch its proximity to the head gasket line on the studs tight between two cyls... Also, you will not have a very tight or waterproof seal...
Karl