The Ford Barn

Bruce/CT · 02-21-2012, 05:37 PM

Hi Barners,
Is there a trick to getting the bezel off the front of the "36 dash switch? There are 4 very delicate looking tabs on the back. They look like they will break on the first bending. I want to send the bezel out to the plater.
Thanks,
Bruce

flatheadfan · 02-21-2012, 08:29 PM

Bruce-

I am not familiar with a 4-prong dash light switch the only ones I have seen are 2-prong. At any rate, you need to line-up the prongs with the dash indentations, squeeze the prongs together and push the unit out. Hopefully, the prongs will slip through the indentations. Usually they don't go very easily. Often the prongs break in the process. If this happens you need to come up with a Plan B to put it back in. The most common method is to insert the switch in the dash, slide a small piece of heater hose over the switch and tighten the hose with a clamp. The clamp spreads the hose and tightens the switch to the dash. This works but it doesn't look pretty on the backside. Unfortunately, there are no repos being made and used ones ('35-'37 use the same switch), often sell for over $100.

Good luck.

Tom

ken ct · 02-21-2012, 09:01 PM

There not an easy fix. ken ct.

Bruce/CT · 02-21-2012, 11:25 PM

Sorry if I was unclear!!!! My wife says this occurs often.
I have the switch out of the dash. I had no problem there BUT I can't get the bezel off to send out for re-chroming. I've tried wiggling it and pulling it back to no avail. There are 4 small tabs on the rear of the switch itself. Are they the key. If yes, how not to break them off making the dswitch junk.
Bruce

Bruce/CT · 02-22-2012, 07:24 AM

Let's try todays Barners

31chevy · 02-22-2012, 07:31 AM

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Could you post some pictures?
Gary.

Terry,OH · 02-22-2012, 05:55 PM

You have to bend the small retaining tabs the bare minimum to remove the end cap and the internals. The knob has to be cut off to remove the square shaft. If the two electrical terminals appear to be getting close to each other the end cap does warp. I cut a small piece of plastic (from a large, black, electrical wire wrap) and place it between the terminals to keep them apart and this will make the switch work better.

02-21-2012, 05:37 PM	#1
Bruce/CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Middlebury, CT Posts: 780	Taking apart 1936 dash switch Hi Barners, Is there a trick to getting the bezel off the front of the "36 dash switch? There are 4 very delicate looking tabs on the back. They look like they will break on the first bending. I want to send the bezel out to the plater. Thanks, Bruce __________________ Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently.......Henry Ford

02-21-2012, 08:29 PM	#2
flatheadfan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: West Michigan Posts: 1,218	Re: Taking apart 1936 dash switch Bruce- I am not familiar with a 4-prong dash light switch the only ones I have seen are 2-prong. At any rate, you need to line-up the prongs with the dash indentations, squeeze the prongs together and push the unit out. Hopefully, the prongs will slip through the indentations. Usually they don't go very easily. Often the prongs break in the process. If this happens you need to come up with a Plan B to put it back in. The most common method is to insert the switch in the dash, slide a small piece of heater hose over the switch and tighten the hose with a clamp. The clamp spreads the hose and tightens the switch to the dash. This works but it doesn't look pretty on the backside. Unfortunately, there are no repos being made and used ones ('35-'37 use the same switch), often sell for over $100. Good luck. Tom

02-21-2012, 09:01 PM	#3
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Taking apart 1936 dash switch There not an easy fix. ken ct.

02-21-2012, 11:25 PM	#4
Bruce/CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Middlebury, CT Posts: 780	Re: Taking apart 1936 dash switch Sorry if I was unclear!!!! My wife says this occurs often. I have the switch out of the dash. I had no problem there BUT I can't get the bezel off to send out for re-chroming. I've tried wiggling it and pulling it back to no avail. There are 4 small tabs on the rear of the switch itself. Are they the key. If yes, how not to break them off making the dswitch junk. Bruce __________________ Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently.......Henry Ford

02-22-2012, 07:24 AM	#5
Bruce/CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Middlebury, CT Posts: 780	Re: Taking apart 1936 dash switch Let's try todays Barners __________________ Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, this time more intelligently.......Henry Ford

02-22-2012, 07:31 AM	#6
31chevy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lake City Mi. Posts: 807	Re: Taking apart 1936 dash switch Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Could you post some pictures? Gary.

02-22-2012, 05:55 PM	#7
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,752	Re: Taking apart 1936 dash switch You have to bend the small retaining tabs the bare minimum to remove the end cap and the internals. The knob has to be cut off to remove the square shaft. If the two electrical terminals appear to be getting close to each other the end cap does warp. I cut a small piece of plastic (from a large, black, electrical wire wrap) and place it between the terminals to keep them apart and this will make the switch work better.