Quick and easy: Steering question

[BenLeBlanc]

Hello there. I am in the middle of my build and am finding that my radius rod is coming into contact with the castle nut of the tie rod end.

I reversed the tie rod end so that the bolt side was further front. (I split my bones and bent them. By flipping them, this pushed the castle nut in front of bend I made.) Take a look.

All I really need to know is if the steering wheel locks before this becomes an issue, or if indeed I need to fix it. Thank you.





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[Marshall V. Daut]

Those hydraulic brake backing plates (I assume they are hydraulic?) stick out farther around their perimeters than Model A backing plates. So, the tie rod end will hit it sooner, thus reducing your turning radius. Short of cutting off 1/2" from each tie rod end and the plugs, I think you're stuck with what you have.
But the main problem with the bolt head or nut hitting the wishbone arm is that the double steering arm is probably bent downwards. This is not all that uncommon. Try heating it lightly while applying upwards pressure until the nut or bolt head clears. Try not to get the arm cherry red or you will affect the arm's strength.
Marshall

[BenLeBlanc]

Originally Posted by Marshall V. Daut

Those hydraulic brake backing plates (I assume they are hydraulic?) stick out farther around their perimeters than Model A backing plates. So, the tie rod end will hit it sooner, thus reducing your turning radius. Short of cutting off 1/2" from each tie rod end and the plugs, I think you're stuck with what you have.
But the main problem with the bolt head or nut hitting the wishbone arm is that the double steering arm is probably bent downwards. This is not all that uncommon. Try heating it lightly while applying upwards pressure until the nut or bolt head clears. Try not to get the arm cherry red or you will affect the arm's strength.
Marshall

The stock spindle allows for the steering to move with the backing plate. This has no effect on the turning because the link is always the same distance away from the backing plate.

I am thinking that if I flip the nut and bolt upside down I can also grab some clearance, as the bolt head is about a quarter inch shorter than the castle nut.

The only issue with bending the other stuff is just that if I bend it too much, the drag link will start hitting the tie rod.


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[Big hammer]

Modify your altered radius rods more by cutting them down for clearance, then weld metal
pieces in. I have seen people drill holes in radius rods and weld tubing in the holes.

[Vin-tin]

Originally Posted by BenLeBlanc

The stock spindle allows for the steering to move with the backing plate. This has no effect on the turning because the link is always the same distance away from the backing plate.

I am thinking that if I flip the nut and bolt upside down I can also grab some clearance, as the bolt head is about a quarter inch shorter than the castle nut.

The only issue with bending the other stuff is just that if I bend it too much, the drag link will start hitting the tie rod.


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What if you flip the bolt like you said, but cut the head off the bolt and just weld the stud flush on the bottom? Maybe chamfer the hole in the clamp so you get good weld penetration. The nut on top will still allow adjustment / removal.

[BenLeBlanc]

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Originally Posted by Vin-tin

What if you flip the bolt like you said, but cut the head off the bolt and just weld the stud flush on the bottom? Maybe chamfer the hole in the clamp so you get good weld penetration. The nut on top will still allow adjustment / removal.

Good idea.

However, this will all be for naught if the lock position is where the body of the tie rod end is over the radius rod. The body of the tie rod end is larger than the bolt setup anyways.

Does anyone know how the setup looks at lock?


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