Chevrolet Distributor

[CA Victoria]

I am interested in building a distributor myself.
Plan A - Looking for the specs or drawing with dimensions for a Chevy distributor to fit a Ford 8ba engine.

[Newc]

Several rebuilders are making those just to fit the 8ba. Newc

[CA Victoria]

Great, maybe one of them will respond

[Krylon32]

Unfortunately I have lost my contact information for Charlie In New York. He has done a few for me and they worked great.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Krylon32

Unfortunately I have lost my contact information for Charlie In New York. He has done a few for me and they worked great.

Tell Charlie that Coop, AND the rest of the gang, said hello!


Charlie ny - Contact

[email protected] (716) 440-8952 OR (716) 662-9159


Charlie Schwindler
5845 Cole Road
Orchard Park NY 14127

.

[PeteVS]

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If you have a Ford distributor in hand and a pair of dial calipers in hand, measure up the part of the Ford distributor that goes into the engine and machine the housing and shaft of the Chevy distributor to be the same. It's my understanding that those who are making the conversions did.
If you can find Bubba's website, he gives a lengthy discourse on the additional mods he makes mainly on the vacuum (he tosses it) and the centrifugal in terms of weights and springs.

http://www.bubbasignition.com

[KiWinUS]

Go with CharlieNY. you won’t regret.

[wga]

https://myflatheadford.com/sbc-distr...8ba-flatheads/

Think Mike Davidson's book had a drawing of the changes.

[CA Victoria]

Thank you WGA,
The article posted was a big boost.

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

If you have a Ford distributor in hand and a pair of dial calipers in hand, measure up the part of the Ford distributor that goes into the engine and machine the housing and shaft of the Chevy distributor to be the same. It's my understanding that those who are making the conversions did.

That's how I did mine. While I was at it I also used an early Chrysler magnetic pickup and reluctor. Hooked to an HEI brain and "E" coil a bulletproof combo. All built for readily available parts at any parts store.
16 degrees @ 1800 RPMs. Grant total of 20 degrees + the 2 on the wheel @ 2400 RPMs.

Don't be so eager to "toss" the vacuum can. I've got mine set to 14 degrees @15" using manifold vacuum. Very smooth idle and throttle response. The biggest benefit is cooling. That is accomplished because the closing of throttle plates at idle.

[Ol' Ron]

Back in the late 60's I saw a chevy distributor in a flathead someware. I asked the guy where he got it and he said he made it by coping the flathead distributor and it was quite easy. I picked one up and copied the ford distributor and it ran quite well except the vacuum advance caused dentition, so I didn't use it. After awhile I found out why?????? and then I made several for my friends, because it was much cheaper than the Mallory unit. In my book you can see some. Who;d have thought it would create an industry of it's own.
Gramps

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

If you have a Ford distributor in hand and a pair of dial calipers in hand, measure up the part of the Ford distributor that goes into the engine and machine the housing and shaft of the Chevy distributor to be the same. It's my understanding that those who are making the conversions did.
If you can find Bubba's website, he gives a lengthy discourse on the additional mods he makes mainly on the vacuum (he tosses it) and the centrifugal in terms of weights and springs.

http://www.bubbasignition.com

Toss the vacuum? Bad advise

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Toss the vacuum? Bad advise

All I know is that I have a Bubba centrifugal advance only Chevy distributor on my 8ba and it was the best thing I ever did to it. Runs like a top right out of the box. My 8ba is stock except for EAB heads so don't know if things might be different with a modified engine?

[PeteVS]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Toss the vacuum? Bad advise

I believe he said that the vacuum advance isn't worthwhile with multiple carb applications. I don't think that there are too many out there running improved distributors with a single Stromberg.

[Ol' Ron]

The ignition system should be designed to provide the proper timing for ALLLLL load conditions for the engine. The chey distributor modified ny Bubba & Charley can do that. The number and type of carburetors doesn't make any difference.
Gramps

[flatjack9]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

All I know is that I have a Bubba centrifugal advance only Chevy distributor on my 8ba and it was the best thing I ever did to it. Runs like a top right out of the box. My 8ba is stock except for EAB heads so don't know if things might be different with a modified engine?

No doubt centrifugal advance is better than the loadamatic. However the addition of vacuum advance makes it even better. Multiple carbs will make no difference to the distributor

[1948F-1Pickup]

Originally Posted by Gene1949

That's how I did mine. While I was at it I also used an early Chrysler magnetic pickup and reluctor. Hooked to an HEI brain and "E" coil a bulletproof combo. All built for readily available parts at any parts store.
16 degrees @ 1800 RPMs. Grant total of 20 degrees + the 2 on the wheel @ 2400 RPMs.

Don't be so eager to "toss" the vacuum can. I've got mine set to 14 degrees @15" using manifold vacuum. Very smooth idle and throttle response. The biggest benefit is cooling. That is accomplished because the closing of throttle plates at idle.

Hays reluctor, Chrysler pickup and an adjustable vacuum canister....

[Gene1949]

Our flatties respond very well to the use of a vacuum advance can. The auto manufacturers put a vacuum can on their ignitions for a reason. None of them ran a “centrifugal only” system.
Something that needs to be said here, depending on driver input/throttle position.
Ported (venturi vacuum) ADDS advance.
Manifold vacuum SUBTRACTS advance.

I chose to run manifold vacuum on the ’49 and the ’69 BBC Camaro because of slow speed/cruising cooling. ALSO, drivability, fuel economy and idle quality especially on performance motors all played a part in that decision.
Next time you are futzing with your tune-up jack up the initial timing a bit. Immediately your idle speed increases. Reason being more of the idle mixture is being used. Since you can close the throttle plates AND lean out the idle mixture to maintain the same idle stands to reason you are using less fuel and creating less heat at an idle.

[flatjack9]

Manifold vacuum subtracts advance? I don't think so. Manifold vacuum increases advance. Ported spark just starts the vacuum advance a little later. Modern ported spark is not venturi activated.

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

Manifold vacuum subtracts advance? I don't think so. Manifold vacuum increases advance. Ported spark just starts the vacuum advance a little later. Modern ported spark is not venturi activated.

Read the part about driver input/throttle position. All will become clear to you

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Gene1949

Our flatties respond very well to the use of a vacuum advance can. The auto manufacturers put a vacuum can on their ignitions for a reason. None of them ran a “centrifugal only” system.
Something that needs to be said here, depending on driver input/throttle position.
Ported (venturi vacuum) ADDS advance.
Manifold vacuum SUBTRACTS advance.

I chose to run manifold vacuum on the ’49 and the ’69 BBC Camaro because of slow speed/cruising cooling. ALSO, drivability, fuel economy and idle quality especially on performance motors all played a part in that decision.
Next time you are futzing with your tune-up jack up the initial timing a bit. Immediately your idle speed increases. Reason being more of the idle mixture is being used. Since you can close the throttle plates AND lean out the idle mixture to maintain the same idle stands to reason you are using less fuel and creating less heat at an idle.

Ported vacuum and venturi vacuum are two different things! Venturi vacuum is sourced from the small diameter of the venturi and is commonly used to open the secondary throttle valves on a vacuum secondary Holly four barrel. It was also blended with manifold vacuum to provide the advance on '49-'56 Ford non-centrifugal ignitions.
Ported vacuum is sourced from an opening that is situated just above where the throttle plates are situated at idle, so there is no vacuum advance until the throttle plates are opened slightly.
When you "jack up the initial timing", you are also adding to the total timing so you may be over advanced at high RPM which can lead to detonation which can lead to damage even if you can't hear it! Use a timing light.











!

[flatjack9]

All is not clear to me, you will have to explain your position which I deem wrong. I stand completely behind my post above. (This is in response to post #20). 40 DeLuxe has it right.

[Ol' Ron]

In cruise you have max Vacuum advance. When you goWOT you loose the advance. Kinda nice, don't ya think???

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

All is not clear to me, you will have to explain your position which I deem wrong. I stand completely behind my post above. (This is in response to post #20). 40 DeLuxe has it right.

In a closed throttle position the manifold vacuum is high resulting in the maximum advance of the can. When you open the throttle plates that vacuum is lessened essentially SUBTRACTING advance.

[Gene1949]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Ported vacuum and venturi vacuum are two different things! Venturi vacuum is sourced from the small diameter of the venturi and is commonly used to open the secondary throttle valves on a vacuum secondary Holly four barrel. It was also blended with manifold vacuum to provide the advance on '49-'56 Ford non-centrifugal ignitions.
Ported vacuum is sourced from an opening that is situated just above where the throttle plates are situated at idle, so there is no vacuum advance until the throttle plates are opened slightly.
When you "jack up the initial timing", you are also adding to the total timing so you may be over advanced at high RPM which can lead to detonation which can lead to damage even if you can't hear it!
!

Arguing semantics vs concepts is a losing proposition. How about the "timed" vacuum port. There, feel better?
My "jacked up" comment was to prove a point, our flatties like a lot more advance at an idle. I posted the timing I use at the beginning of the thread.

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Use a timing light. !

Without knowing true TDC AND verifying the timing curve in your distributor a timing light is a feel-good device demonstrating a “ball park” setting.

[Krylon32]

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I have used non vacuum advance Chevy distributors from Bubba and Charlie in 6 engines so far. I have installed them set the timing and went down the road. I dam sure ain't no mechanical genius but I do know when an engine sounds and runs right and is happy. In my simple mind that's good for me.

[tubman]

I had a converted SBC distributor with vacuum from the best source on my "Hot Rod" engine. It ran fine, but I decided that I wanted a "flattop" Mallory, mainly to provide a complete "old-timey" look. To my surprise, it ran as good, if not better with the Mallory than the conversion unit.

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by Gene1949

Arguing semantics vs concepts is a losing proposition. How about the "timed" vacuum port. There, feel better?
My "jacked up" comment was to prove a point, our flatties like a lot more advance at an idle. I posted the timing I use at the beginning of the thread.


Without knowing true TDC AND verifying the timing curve in your distributor a timing light is a feel-good device demonstrating a “ball park” setting.

Who is "arguing semantics vs concepts"? I am merely stating the facts of the matter. Without understanding how advance mechanisms work and what they accomplish, we cannot tune an engine to maximum efficiency. And, is not "timed" vacuum just another name for "ported" vacuum?
Of course we need to be "knowing true TDC and be verifying the timing curve in your distributor"! That goes without saying. It gives us a reference, a starting point, in making adjustments. Setting the timing by ear or by using a vacuum gauge is truly the "feel-good" method for getting in the "ball park" (maybe, but more likely missing the ball park!).