internal engine enamel

[Ian Crawford]

The main reason why engine builders use it as well as myself, is that it is very easy to spot foreign particles. To spot foreign particles on oiled cast iron is difficult because it is black. Aluminum engines are not painted inside as they are bright and foreign particles are easily seen. Foreign particles include lint which is the most common.

[Dan McEachern]

I've used the Srayon version of insulating varnish for many years with great results- seems just a durable as Glyptal from my experience. Do or don't- thats your choice, but I second the comments above about bead blasting prior to application if you are going to use it.

[Joe K]

Many castings still contain "sand" either from the casting process or from blasting during rebuild preparation. Glyptal seals in this sand.

As to it's "insulating" capabilities, I think that is more to electrical than thermal.

I have never used it until recently - and a rattle can is about $50 delivered.

Joe K

[Phil Brown]

Every H&H "A" motor that I've see inside of has it, so it must be the way to go

[ModelA29]

They first started using it in dragrace engines to make the route for oil to drain back to the pan smoother/faster. Hi reving engines were pumping oil out of the pan faster than it was returning causing starvation.

Since the racers were using it Johnny Streetcruiser needed it for those 35 mph blasts down Whittier Blvd.
Do you need it? No. Will it hurt? No

[Dodge]

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I have used Glyptol and Arevoe when requested with great results. The Arevoe is way cheaper and very easy to use. Once it kicks it gives a great finish. On race motors that
are torn down regularly they are way easier to clean with just a quick run thru the wash tank.
Brent seems to use some form of the stuff and I'm sure we'll have his 2 cents along here
at some point.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Dodge

I have used Glyptol and Arevoe when requested with great results. The Arevoe is way cheaper and very easy to use. Once it kicks it gives a great finish. On race motors that
are torn down regularly they are way easier to clean with just a quick run thru the wash tank.
Brent seems to use some form of the stuff and I'm sure we'll have his 2 cents along here at some point.

My only 2 cents on this is, yes I think any sealer will fail if the metal is not clean. Maybe this is why some feel it will fail?

I do use Glyptol, and my engines are pre-soaked and agitated in 200° Caustic to soften the sludge, -then thermally heated to 375° which turns remaining oils into ash, followed by media cleaning in a Rotoblaster. Afterwards a thorough jet washing. At this point, all organic materials are gone and the metal surface is 'new-metal clean' including porous areas. I even use stainless steel shot in my Rotoblaster, so it abrades the surface which allows the epoxy to stick even better. I'm sure there are other successful ways of cleaning too.

[nkaminar]

Unless you can assure, like Brent, that the engine is "new metal clean" then I would recommend not using any kind of paint on the inside of the engine.

[gdmn852]

Postwar and perhaps prewar , Hudson’s had red glyptal inside the engine, also on 49 Buick was inside the rear carrier casting for ring and pinion. Helps to seal the casting.

[Hitman]

A lot of excitement and discussion on a question that hasn’t been asked in 14 years!

[Fullraceflathead]

I've always used red Glyptal in all my racing engines unfortunately the price for red Glyptal today is extremely expensive but I still use it!
You must have the metal surface spotless! I have my blocks chemically stripped with a acid dip.