Coumbia Control 37-41 for a 1932

[glennpm]

Hi,

I got a PM where where solidaxle noticed my SW Columbia speedometer transmission (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...4&postcount=15) and asked about my clutch control for the vacuum unit.

I welded a 1/4" tab onto my 32 clutch arm.



I fabricated a bracket that mounts inside the 32 frame rail. I think one of the holes was stock.




I then bent and threaded some 1/4" rod to connect this vacuum unit/frame bracket to the Columbia vacuum valve

[solidaxle]

Looks a lot better then mounting it on top of the cylinder head as in an original installation.

[glennpm]

Yes it does.

Glenn

[Bored&Stroked]

Very nice work! I'm going to be putting a Columbia in my 32 Cab next Spring/Summer - I like your setup - really clean design.

[glennpm]

Thank you B&S!

Here is another picture showing the 3/8" ID fuel hose to vacuum canister connections. Due to the tight bends, I slipped on some springs over the hose to prevent crimping.

Glenn

[Bored&Stroked]

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Hey Glen, do you happen to have a pic that shows the linkage from the clutch pedal to the vacuum switch? I'd love to see the angle and how it aligns? If not, no biggie as I'll figure it out. What Columbia housing did you use? Did you take a later one and cut/weld it to 32 widths and use a 32 banjo with an adapter plate . . . or???

[solidaxle]

Glenn,


I see the speedometer changer on the other side of the motor mounted to the firewall.


Do you have two individual cables and knobs or did you incorporate the two into one pull?

[Kube]

Originally Posted by solidaxle

Looks a lot better then mounting it on top of the cylinder head as in an original installation.

The cylinder head installation didn't come around until 1942. Prior to that, this type of control was mounted on the steering box.
Picture attached is a "proper" installation upon a '40.
Proper being a relative term as a Columbia was not an authorized accessory on a 1940 Ford.

[glennpm]

I took some control rod pictures which I’ll post along with response to your questions B&S.

Glenn

[Cool Kat with Hot Car]

mounted on a spacer behind K member, used 37 style clamp around clutch pedal to connect vacuum plunger rod to pedal

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Kube

The cylinder head installation didn't come around until 1942. Prior to that, this type of control was mounted on the steering box.
Picture attached is a "proper" installation upon a '40.
Proper being a relative term as a Columbia was not an authorized accessory on a 1940 Ford.

Yes Kube, I had the steering box bracket but just not enough space to use it nor did I want it on the box.

Glenn

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Hey Glen, do you happen to have a pic that shows the linkage from the clutch pedal to the vacuum switch? I'd love to see the angle and how it aligns? If not, no biggie as I'll figure it out.

Hi B&S,

The rod is pretty simple. I had to figure a good offset from the vacuum switch so that the rod would go behind my headers and from there it is a straight shot to the clutch arm bracket.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Hey Glen, What Columbia housing did you use? Did you take a later one and cut/weld it to 32 widths and use a 32 banjo with an adapter plate . . . or???

As I mention above, I have a 1940 rearend in my 32. It was not narrowed since the width is only 1" wider.



My old notes:



This from Rumbleseat:

"REAR END CENTER SECTION REQUIREMENTS WHEN ADDING A COLUMBIA OVERDRIVE.

The width of the rear end from backing plate to backing plate varies according to the
year of the rear end. Nothing new here. The newer they are, the wider they are.
Usually it’s the axles and housings where all the added width is. But late ‘32
through ‘34 rear ends have narrower center sections. And these narrower center
sections will not accept a Columbia made for ‘35 and newer cars (only late ‘32
through ‘34 Columbias fit in these older center sections). However, axle
housings all have the same bolt pattern and bolt up to any center section. If
you’re adding a Columbia from a ‘35 and newer to your ‘34, you’ll have to change
to a ’35 through ‘48 center section (they’re all the same). Understand center
section includes the spider gears, the ring, and the pinion gears for this
discussion. But when you go to the later center section, the ‘34 and older axles
will each be too short by about 3/8". Solution is to cut off the ends of two
longer axles to the correct length. Machine threads, axle key slot, and taper in
each axle. None of this makes much difference if it’s going in a high-boy and
you don’t mind the tires being some distance from the body. One other thing,
keep in mind the mounting and angle of the rear radius rods since they vary
according to the year of car. I found it’s easier to graft a section of the
inner overdrive housing to an outer section of the ‘34 right side housing. This
retains the original radius rod mounting, angles, shocks, and brakes. Just
shorten the stock right housing so the right housing with the overdrive housing
is exactly the same length as the original housing was. Be sure to carefully
line the two housings up so the radius rods etc. are all located and indexed
properly. Cost to do this is usually about $100 and can be done by any competent
machine shop."

I also had to grind notches in the 40 spring. I also removed some of the 1940 leaves. This link is helpful too.
https://builda32.blogspot.com/2012/0...ng-fit-32.html



The torque tube and axle must be shortened. After the welding, I had a good machine shop with a long bed face off the rear flange to make both ends of the torque tube parallel. It was about 1/32" canted.



Glenn

[solidaxle]

Glenn,


Are you activating the speedometer changer and the shift valve with one pull knob?

[glennpm]

Yes I am, using the Columbia knob and cables.

[solidaxle]

Glenn,


Not to be a critic, the plastic tye wrap on your hoses in post 12 has to go.

[solidaxle]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Yes I am, using the Columbia knob and cables.

That may work for my application, presently I don't have a speedo changer hooked up, but plan to.

Would you know the length of the cables?

[blucar]

My 36 coupe came with a 36 Columbia installed in the car. Within a few short months the shifting system became very troublesome, the differential was also a problem.
Doing some research I found that a '42-48 Columbia would bolt right into my car with a few very simple modifications.
I used the stock '36 driveshaft and torque tube with the '36 banjo assembly, 47-48 Columbia axle housing/ and housing axle right side with 47-48 axle on left side. Using '37-38 radius bars completed the assembly using all stock bolts except where the radius bars bolted to the torque, an alignment problem for the radius bar bolt was solved by putting a longer bolt with a 3/4" spacer nut between the radius bars and the torque tube mount.
The shifting problem was solved by utilizing the 47-48 head mounting plate, harvesting the mount portion for the clutch safety switch witch was mount in its original position on the lower portion of the left head and to the clutch peddle via the stock attachment rod assembly.
I then harvested the vacuum/electric portion of the head mound attaching same to the left side inner fender panel. I installed the SW speedo shift assembly inside of the car on the cowl. extended the small vacuum hoses into the car along with the short cable assembly to complete the installation. I used the stock Columbia frame tubesthat came from the donor car..
The whole assembly has worked with no problems for over 70 years.
See attached pix.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Yes Kube, I had the steering box bracket but just not enough space to use it nor did I want it on the box.

Glenn

I like what you'd done. I also prefer this type of control. They simply do not fail. The later controls that originally mounted to the cylinder head had numerous issues.
Although I'm not a "hot rod guy", I so appreciate work well done... keep it up

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Glen: Thanks for all the information. One thing stuck out to me - you mentioned using the early 'B' style rear end? Why not the late 32 (scalloped torque tube) - which is what I have? They are pretty hard to come by, but from everything I know are a lot stronger than a 'B' style rear. Thoughts?

[The Liberator]

So does any later speedo changer work on the early fords as well? IE: 46-48 on a 34? Thanks

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Kube

Although I'm not a "hot rod guy", I so appreciate work well done... keep it up

Thanks Kube!

My vacuum unit was stuck before I installed but after a bit of PB Blaster it freed up fine and has worked flawlessly. I also rebuilt my Columbia clutch replacing the cork, which was in excellent condition, with the HDPE plastic that John Connolly sells. This made the shifts a lot quieter.

My Columbia works fantastically and love it!

Glenn

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by solidaxle

That may work for my application, presently I don't have a speedo changer hooked up, but plan to.

Would you know the length of the cables?

No I don't know and I'm not going to measure mine. If you're not going to get an original, work the best lengths for your application. No need to be the same as the original.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Hey Glen: Thanks for all the information. One thing stuck out to me - you mentioned using the early 'B' style rear end? Why not the late 32 (scalloped torque tube) - which is what I have? They are pretty hard to come by, but from everything I know are a lot stronger than a 'B' style rear. Thoughts?

Hi B&S,

I wrote these notes up probably 40-50 years ago when I bought my Columbia from a good and very knowledgeable friend in the V8 Club Chapter I belonged to at the time. I edited my post #13 with the reason as I recall it. I didn't need to go further since I planned on using a 40 rear anyway.

But late ‘32 through ‘34 rear ends have narrower center sections. And these narrower center sections will not accept a Columbia made for ‘35 and newer cars (only late ‘32 through ‘34 Columbias fit in these older center sections).

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by The Liberator

So does any later speedo changer work on the early fords as well? IE: 46-48 on a 34? Thanks

We're talking about the vacuum control switch and not the SW speedo gearbox.
Others would have to respond to your question since my gearbox is for the 37-41 Columbia.

Glenn

[glennpm]

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B&S, just searched and found this link, 1932 REAR AXLE AND TRANS

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...trans.1106833/

[Bored&Stroked]

Thanks Glen - am quite versed in the various 32 - 34 rears - have all of them. But, I've never 'grafted' a Columbia into a late 32 - 34 rear. I've already got the "bullet proof" steel parts made out of 8620 steel and later style axles. So, I think I have everything I need to give it a whirl. Also, have a big steel alignment bar - used to ensure that when you weld in the grafted Columbia housing and the outer 32 spring bearing/spring hanger, that it is running true to the centerline of the axle and carrier. Will report back next Spring once I'm into it.

[glennpm]

Good, looking forward to your report.

Glenn

[solidaxle]

Bored&Stroked




You can easily use your late 32 center section without altering the axles or rear spring. My unit started life as a wider track 42-48 style. The Columbia side of the casing needs to be cut down and a stock 33-34 rear outer axle casing was aligned and welded on to make the Columbia the correct 32-34 width.The drivers side of the rear is my stock 32 housing and axle. A 5/32" ring is also added to the rear banjo housing to get the correct overall length and gear mesh. John Connelly sells the ring.