Generator 3rd Brush Adjustment Explanation

[Nasukau]

Hi All,
Does anyone have a video or possible could make a video of how to adjust the 3rd brush of the generator? I am not understanding how to adjust the brush. I can move it up but it comes right back down due to the spring. So I know I am not doing it correctly.

Thanks,
Denny

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Denny,

Each brush has a spring where it can move away from the center of the generator & back down.

The 3rd brush is the only one that can move sideways along the circumference of the generator in a circular pattern.

When it slide up, less amps .......... slides down, increases amps.

It has a screw or bolt to tighten the circular band that slides with it to hold it at its setting.

Hope this helps.

[Nasukau]

Thanks H.L.
Is the 3rd brush the one on the very top?

Denny

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Denny,

When standing in front of the vehicle looking towards the rear, picture the front of the round generator like the face of a clock.

The 3rd brush should be located at between approximately 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock or there about.

Some charge well at about 2:30, some may go to 5 o'clock; one never knows, but your ammeter will tell.

The bolt or screw to tighten the metal circular adjustment band is located at the inside rear of the generator -- you may need a flash light & a small dental mirror to see it well.

Again, hope this helps -- you can do it I am sure.

[Mike V. Florida]

Here is a picture of a cut away generator posted by Tom Wesenberg,



There should be friction holding the 3rd brush ring in place.

[mshmodela]

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I had an issue with my 3rd bush ring... in short my would not move.. the following video show why an what I did to fix it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94j8...srmu_STYU2O4ig

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh-H...srmu_STYU2O4ig

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYlp...srmu_STYU2O4ig


If your 3rd ring is slipping, you may wish to take your generator apart and inspect why. From my take, a generator should be taken apart every few years and cleaned. My car sat for 4 year and my ring as the videos show had spur and had corrosion.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Thanks Mike for reposting the picture. I took a lot of pictures of the cutaway running gear/chassis at the new Model A museum at Hickory Corners in Michigan. For those attending in September, don't pass up the opportunity to take lots of pictures.

This is why I like to take pictures and look at them later. By doing this I have even found a mistake or two that I might have made while doing a repair. Notice the lock washers are under the nuts. They should be under the screw heads, as this will keep the screw ends away from the pulley a bit more.

[Barber31]

Would there be a issue if it is pushed completely down and maybe touched the other brush?

[tbirdtbird]

i doubt it can go that far

[Drive Shaft Dave]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Thanks Mike for reposting the picture. I took a lot of pictures of the cutaway running gear/chassis at the new Model A museum at Hickory Corners in Michigan. For those attending in September, don't pass up the opportunity to take lots of pictures.

This is why I like to take pictures and look at them later. By doing this I have even found a mistake or two that I might have made while doing a repair. Notice the lock washers are under the nuts. They should be under the screw heads, as this will keep the screw ends away from the pulley a bit more.

Look's like the fake rivets for the bearing retainer are too long touching the field. Doesn't matter much, static display anyhow. Excellent photo though.

[Barber31]

Am I the only one who doesn't see a photo posted of the cut away?

[tbirdtbird]

see post #5
a nice large pic

[Nasukau]

Thanks for all the responses. I was able to move the brush and still could not get it to a + charge. Ammeter stays on 0 unless I use the brakes or turn on the lights and then it goes to discharge -8 to -10. Possibly a bad cut-out.

Thanks,
Denny

[Tom Wesenberg]

Just jump a clip lead across the two cutout terminals to see if you get a charge. That will bypass the cutout, but be sure to remove the clip when the engine is stopped, or you can burn out the generator and kill the battery.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Barber31

Am I the only one who doesn't see a photo posted of the cut away?

Does this one work?

Also notice the adjustable brush is the same thickness as the ground brush, but it should be thinner.

[Mike V. Florida]

Tom, how about posting the picture you have on the third brush mounting in the genny?

[Barber31]

Thanks Tom. Post #5 doesn't show for some reason but yours did.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Tom, how about posting the picture you have on the third brush mounting in the genny?

Here is the end plate for the 1929 through early 1930 generator with the ball bearing rear end plate. I need to take the same pictures for the bushing end plate. Everything is the same except for the bearing vs. the bushing.

I put too much grease in the bearing and had to remove some. Notice the thin brush is the adjustable brush, and the short side of each brush faces the pivot on the brush holder.

[1946]

Being of an enquiring mind, I was wondering what is the full unregulated output voltage of a pancake style generator. The reason being I would like to try and maintain as much of an orignal look but run a 12v system. My question is can a pancake generator be used in a 12v negative ground system.
I can guess the first answer being why not maintain a standard 6v pos ground system. I have portable HAM radio gear I may wish to use, and other electroinc equipment I can hide. Sorry for the thread diversion.

[Tom Wesenberg]

1946, yes, either style generator can be used as a 12 volt generator by installing a 12 volt battery. It can also be used as negative ground by connecting the battery with negative ground, and then polarizing the generator by jumping the cutout terminals for 1 second. The powerhouse generator has a safe maximum output of 15 amps, while the later long gnerator has 12 amps safe output.