'36 never ending steering problem!

[36tudordeluxe]

My '36 has a CE front end with '40 dropped axle, reversed eyes, dropped steering arms and split wishbone. The drag link is a '36. Couldn't get the steering centered so filed the '36 pitman arm so I could make it rotate to wherever I wanted it. Installed pitman arm pointing straight forward with the box centered, now I can't make a full right turn because tie rod end on the drag link hits the wishbone. Had a '40 pitman arm but it has upward "dog leg" that makes the '36 drag link hit the bottom of the pan. Is the solution '37-'40 drag link?

[George/Maine]

I think mid way for steering wheel is keyway straight up or down. The pitman arm may be better with a 37 if any deference. If you bend the pitman arm down will that clear the pan. Some times you have to bend drag link.
My47 had to bend pitman arm hit the 53 truck pan.

[Equipped28]

Adjustable drag link? I have the same problem in my roadster I can't get centered as the pitman arm is between splines and I've got a solid drag link. I've just got used to driving with the steering wheel off.

Harley

[V8COOPMAN]

You didn't mention your spindles, but is it possible you have one of the goofy '41 Ford "roundback" spindles like the one pictured below, which has it's drag link hole tapered from the top.......instead of tapered from the bottom like ALL '37-'40 "roundbacks"?

Lots of folks don't believe there are '41 roundbacks like this, but they awkwardly require the drag link to be installed on the top side, which could easily cause your drag link to hit the wishbone. DD

[36tudordeluxe]

As you can see in my recently edited post I've added a picture that shows the pitman arm hitting the left side wishbone with the drag link disconnected. Disregarding drag link and its tie rod end, the pitman arm on its own hits the wish bone. The spindles and steering arms are CE with the arms pre-bent to clear dropped axle.

[JSeery]

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Can't you bend the pitman arm to clear?

[36tudordeluxe]

Bending the pitman arm down won't help, bending up might, but that would mean installing a '52 truck pan and maybe different year pitman arm and drag link. Going to call CE, maybe they have an answer. Maybe guys on the HAMB might have an idea.

[JSeery]

Still looks like it needs to go down to me, maybe it's just the photo!

[V8COOPMAN]

Yes, I now see your pic. That pitman arm ALMOST looks like a '37-40, which is bent UPWARD like the BOTTOM arm in MY pic......the top one is a '36 in pic.

Is it also possible that you've "dropped" (lowered) your steering column mount? I can see where an UN-BENT (stock) '37-'40 pitman, especially where used with a lowered steering column mount, could hit your wishbone as seen in your pic.

It's absolutely safe to heat and bend (downward) that pitman arm to fit your situation. That arm is FORGED. After heating and bending, let it cool NATURALLY.........no water-dipping allowed. DD

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

Bending the pitman arm down won't help, bending up might........

Not sure I understand why bending DOWN won't work, referencing your pic. Seems like that would also help your pan clearance. DD

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Yes, I now see your pic. That pitman arm ALMOST looks like a '37-40, which is bent UPWARD like the BOTTOM arm in MY pic......the top one is a '36 in pic.

Is it also possible that you've "dropped" (lowered) your steering column mount? I can see where an UN-BENT (stock) '37-'40 pitman, especially where used with a lowered steering column mount, could hit your wishbone as seen in your pic.

It's absolutely safe to heat and bend (downward) that pitman arm to fit your situation. That arm is FORGED. After heating and bending, let it cool NATURALLY.........no water-dipping allowed. DD

The pitman arm is straight with no bend. Bending it down will get the tie rod end of the drag link to clear but the "arm" section of the pitman arm will still hit the wish bone. Am loosing 3/4 turn of the steering wheel to the right so the "arm" section of the pitman will still hit the wishbone. there is no issue with drag link or tie rod clearing the pan.

[Equipped28]

Are you sure you've done the box lock to lock. The spindles should bottom out on the cotter pin stops way before that pitman arm touches the wishbone.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by Equipped28

Are you sure you've done the box lock to lock. The spindles should bottom out on the cotter pin stops way before that pitman arm touches the wishbone.

As to the first question, yes, the box is centered. The spindles & cotter pins question I don't understand or visualize.

[36tudordeluxe]

Are the '37-'40 pitman arms and drag links the same?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

Are the '37-'40 pitman arms and drag links the same?

Should be close-enough to call 'em the same. DD

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 36tudordeluxe

As to the first question, yes, the box is centered. The spindles & cotter pins question I don't understand or visualize.

I believe he meant to reference the king pin LOCK PINS. Those lock pins (which insert from the front of the axle) have an "acorn-style" lock nut on the REAR side of the axle. They are designed so as to contact and limit the turn of the left and right spindles at FULL left, and at FULL right. Not sure how the CE spindles/king pins/lock-pins are designed to work together. DD

[JSeery]

Well, I'm not following this at all! How would lowering the pitman arm (heating and bending it) not improve the clearance with the radius rods? Seems like saying that bending the spindle arms won't help with clearance with a dropped axle. I'm missing something on this one!

Talking about an "s" shaped bend here, not just bending the end down. The bend would start right next to where it bolts to the steering box.

[Equipped28]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

I believe he meant to reference the king pin LOCK PINS. Those lock pins (which insert from the front of the axle) have an "acorn-style" lock nut on the REAR side of the axle. They are designed so as to contact and limit the turn of the left and right spindles at FULL left, and at FULL right. Not sure how the CE spindles/king pins/lock-pins are designed to work together. DD

Exactly that. English terminology not translating.

[36tudordeluxe]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Well, I'm not following this at all! How would lowering the pitman arm (heating and bending it) not improve the clearance with the radius rods? Seems like saying that bending the spindle arms won't help with clearance with a dropped axle. I'm missing something on this one!

Talking about an "s" shaped bend here, not just bending the end down. The bend would start right next to where it bolts to the steering box.

JSeery, you may be correct in your fix. But looking under the car the way I see it no matter how far down you bend pitman arm, the "arm" portion of the pitman will ultimately hit the wishbone as I continue to turn right another 3/4 turn of the steering wheel.

[JSeery]

Something doesn't seem right here, these type of mods are done all the time. But I'm more familiar with the stright draglink to the left front using the F1 box.