The Ford Barn

JM 35 Sedan · 07-15-2011, 07:30 PM

Before I installed Skip's 3# valve, there was no correct coolant level that I could find that would prevent water loss. As more and more water escaped the temperature would go higher and higher until it reached the boil over point. Maybe a recovery tank would have stopped this, I don't really know. I also know that rust/crud build-up in the pressure release valve will prevent it's proper function.

G.M. · 07-16-2011, 07:54 AM

JM one has to install the valve with the red dot up toward the radiator so the valve is working in the proper dirrection. Installed upside down the valve will be closed at all times blocking the over flow pipe. G.M.

JM 35 Sedan · 07-16-2011, 08:26 AM

George, my check valve is working well with only a few visible drips of coolant after a long run at 50-60 MPH at 90° + temps. I also recently installed a nice NOS '35 radiator cap that I bought from a fellow Fordbarner. I drove my '35 fordor ~ 200 mile on the tour at Saratoga Springs with no problems. I am planning to remove the check valve and make sure it's clean internally before heading to Auburn next month. I really do not want to install a recovery tank on an original rouge class car.

G.M. · 07-17-2011, 08:12 AM

I see no need for a recovery tank as you also descovered. It is best to run the engine WITH THE CAP REMOVED until the engine warms up to about 150 degrees. This gets rid of all the air in the system. keep topping off the coolant as it warms and fill up to the neck. With the valve or a working pressure cap and no compression leaks the coolant remains at that level for months. G.M.

FlatheadTed · 07-17-2011, 03:41 PM

I know a check valve is less intrusive than a over flow tank put on a Rouge class car but it still a modification I have found a over flow tank works two .These are all fixes for a poorly functioning system .as in my car that has 20 od less tubs than what Ford put in .This is not a put down of Skips valve it obviously works as well.On a modern car if you top up the water it will dump water into the over flow tank after it gets hot .When it cools of it sucks it back insuring that it is always full .This system is used universally .They obviously did the R&D . in saying that you will still need to top up occasionally .

Quote:

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

George, my check valve is working well with only a few visible drips of coolant after a long run at 50-60 MPH at 90° + temps. I also recently installed a nice NOS '35 radiator cap that I bought from a fellow Fordbarner. I drove my '35 fordor ~ 200 mile on the tour at Saratoga Springs with no problems. I am planning to remove the check valve and make sure it's clean internally before heading to Auburn next month. I really do not want to install a recovery tank on an original rouge class car.

G.M. · 07-17-2011, 08:21 PM

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You can't compare modern cars with the old Fords. They are made to run at much higer temperatures which makes higher pressures. You won't find a radiator with large flat sides on a newer car like the old Ford radiators the higher pressures would puff the sides out and cause damage. G.M.

flatjack9 · 07-17-2011, 08:29 PM

I run my 39 at 190 deg with an original radiator and have no problems with overheating. I do not fill it to the top of the neck and do not have to add water. I keep the core covered.

JM 35 Sedan · 07-17-2011, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I run my 39 at 190 deg with an original radiator and have no problems with overheating. I do not fill it to the top of the neck and do not have to add water. I keep the core covered.

Are you running a pressure cap? If so, how many #'s?

flatjack9 · 07-17-2011, 08:45 PM

No pressure cap. On my 39 radiator, the overflow comes off the top tank, so I couldn't use a pressure cap unless I altered my filler neck. I've driven this car for 17 - 18 years now with no problems. I did install a fan shroud as the crank driven fan didn't move enough air if I was in a parade or heavy traffic. This is a 276 inch engine. Had the car out today to a car show about 25 miles away. 94 deg out and the engine ran at 190 just like always.

Ian NZ · 07-18-2011, 02:42 AM

I have a 3lb Skips valve on the overflow pipe of my radiator and I had Bars leaks in the radiator and it blocked the Skips valve and the radiator overpressured and it blew a hole in it. Now before I go on a run I check on the overflow pipe with the valve to make sure it is clear.

FlatheadTed · 07-18-2011, 07:44 PM

A 21 stud pre 37 differs from the 24 stud in that It took Ford a while to realise that since the 21 stud was sucking the water through the block as opposed to the 24 stud.pushing the water through ,that is it was building in a low vacuum component ,As a pressurised system increases the boiling point so you get the opposite affect with a low pressure one as in the pre 37 it decreases the boiling point .in a 24 Stud you get a back up of pressure at the thermostat ,this increases the boiling point .This hard to replicate in the early motor ,you get the top tank pressurising but then it goes out the over flow ,

07-15-2011, 07:30 PM	#21
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: pressurizing the radiator... Before I installed Skip's 3# valve, there was no correct coolant level that I could find that would prevent water loss. As more and more water escaped the temperature would go higher and higher until it reached the boil over point. Maybe a recovery tank would have stopped this, I don't really know. I also know that rust/crud build-up in the pressure release valve will prevent it's proper function. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

07-16-2011, 08:26 AM	#23
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,858	Re: pressurizing the radiator... George, my check valve is working well with only a few visible drips of coolant after a long run at 50-60 MPH at 90° + temps. I also recently installed a nice NOS '35 radiator cap that I bought from a fellow Fordbarner. I drove my '35 fordor ~ 200 mile on the tour at Saratoga Springs with no problems. I am planning to remove the check valve and make sure it's clean internally before heading to Auburn next month. I really do not want to install a recovery tank on an original rouge class car. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein* Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 07-16-2011 at 08:37 AM.

07-17-2011, 08:12 AM	#24
G.M. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida and Penna. Posts: 4,471	Re: pressurizing the radiator... I see no need for a recovery tank as you also descovered. It is best to run the engine WITH THE CAP REMOVED until the engine warms up to about 150 degrees. This gets rid of all the air in the system. keep topping off the coolant as it warms and fill up to the neck. With the valve or a working pressure cap and no compression leaks the coolant remains at that level for months. G.M. __________________ www.fordcollector.com

07-17-2011, 08:21 PM	#26
G.M. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida and Penna. Posts: 4,471	Re: pressurizing the radiator... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You can't compare modern cars with the old Fords. They are made to run at much higer temperatures which makes higher pressures. You won't find a radiator with large flat sides on a newer car like the old Ford radiators the higher pressures would puff the sides out and cause damage. G.M. __________________ www.fordcollector.com

07-17-2011, 08:29 PM	#27
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,527	Re: pressurizing the radiator... I run my 39 at 190 deg with an original radiator and have no problems with overheating. I do not fill it to the top of the neck and do not have to add water. I keep the core covered.

07-17-2011, 08:45 PM	#29
flatjack9 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oshkosh, Wi Posts: 4,527	Re: pressurizing the radiator... No pressure cap. On my 39 radiator, the overflow comes off the top tank, so I couldn't use a pressure cap unless I altered my filler neck. I've driven this car for 17 - 18 years now with no problems. I did install a fan shroud as the crank driven fan didn't move enough air if I was in a parade or heavy traffic. This is a 276 inch engine. Had the car out today to a car show about 25 miles away. 94 deg out and the engine ran at 190 just like always. Last edited by flatjack9; 07-17-2011 at 08:55 PM.

07-18-2011, 02:42 AM	#30
Ian NZ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Taranaki, New Zealand Posts: 922	Re: pressurizing the radiator... I have a 3lb Skips valve on the overflow pipe of my radiator and I had Bars leaks in the radiator and it blocked the Skips valve and the radiator overpressured and it blew a hole in it. Now before I go on a run I check on the overflow pipe with the valve to make sure it is clear.

07-18-2011, 07:44 PM	#31
FlatheadTed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Auckland Posts: 4,705	Re: pressurizing the radiator... A 21 stud pre 37 differs from the 24 stud in that It took Ford a while to realise that since the 21 stud was sucking the water through the block as opposed to the 24 stud.pushing the water through ,that is it was building in a low vacuum component ,As a pressurised system increases the boiling point so you get the opposite affect with a low pressure one as in the pre 37 it decreases the boiling point .in a 24 Stud you get a back up of pressure at the thermostat ,this increases the boiling point .This hard to replicate in the early motor ,you get the top tank pressurising but then it goes out the over flow , __________________ http://www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted brake Floaters ,