How to Replace the Steering Box Sector Bushings without removing steering box Video.

[Fullraceflathead]

I was looking at all of the play in my 7 Tooth Steering Box while I had my 11 yr old son rock the steering wheel back and forth.
My Pitman Arm was moving up and down a good 1/16 of an inch. I was thinking there may be a way to do this without pulling the entire Steering Box out of the Truck.
I now know that you can do this.
I made a tool out of 1/2" x 1' long piece of "All Thread". I used a 36mm Deep Socket and a few washers and smaller sockets to use as spacers to drive/pull the bushings out and install the new ones.
The one Special tool I made was a Precision Bushing Driver out of Aluminum bar stock using my Lathe. I made it .005 smaller than the Bushing Inside Diameter and it's Outside Diameter. I used Aluminum instead of Steel so if it Drags along the Original Steering Box Bore it cannot harm the Steering Box.
I previously replaced my King Pin Bushings and Tie Rod/Drag Link Ends along with the Balls just after I bought my Pickup last year.
If you or you know someone with a Lathe You can do this! It is not a super tight Press Fit.
Here is a Video of replacing the Bushings.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...1kpxH2TLliMjIX

[califfarmer]

Very good video series. Great job.

[Kevin in NJ]

Please do not take this the wrong way.

You have great ideas, but they are flawed if you want to correctly fix the problem so it will last a real long time.

These bushings need to be align honed to fit (or reamed). The problem is they are to large an ID to allow the .001" fit required.

From what I have found it appears that the parts houses are selling truck kin pin bushings. They are great because you just put them in and the distortion high spots give you the feel of a tight bushing. When you put a good sector in and turn it some you will see all the high spots made shiny. These will wear quick and then you will be back to loose and leaky.


Obviously, the problem is you have to source your own bushings and get then properly fit to the sector shaft. The advantage is you can get a slightly worn sector ground down level and fit the bushings to the new size. One of the parts dealers may be selling a correct bushing, but when I did a survey I verified they were all selling the same wrong part.

Here is a link to what I found: Steering sector

[Fullraceflathead]

I've read that too. My Sector Shaft Diameter had about .001 wear on it when I Measured it.
It fit a little snug but not tight. I agree with the Correct slightly undersize Bushings it would be best to use a Reamer and Ream them both to size. My Worm and Sector are the Originals as far as I could tell. If they are repro's they would have to be more than 40 years old. I'm not sure if they made repro's that long ago.
My thought is that this is what is available currently from the Vendors and it does work. These Clevite bushings are high quality not some cheap inferior quality from off shore like so many other parts available today. The Concentricity of these Clevite Bushings was less than one tenth of an inch. I do agree with you though, to do this repair Top Notch it would be Best to Ream undersize Bushings to the correct size and replace the upper bushing as well.
A two thousands of an inch clearance here is not noticeable though especially when compared to a Steering Box 87 years old and very worn.
For under $25.00 invested I'm Very Happy with the results. I'm surprised the Sector Shaft and Worm Gear still match as good as they do.

[Mitch//pa]

thanks for taking the time to post and document this detailed procedure for us.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
again thank you

[bosstime2]

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Great videos

[jthomas6]

Very informative videos. Made me look!

Went out this morning and checked the play on mine - bushings appear to be A-ok!

I did tighten the nut on the sector shaft another RCH and replaced the cotter pin.

Thanks for the insightful videos - I'll keep them in mind if/when I need to replace bushings.
Joe

[Rowdy]

Yes, they had reproductions that long ago, just different manufacturers than currently make them. One I have is Echlin and the box has a date that is mid 50's. Interesting they used the Ford part number with a couple of extra numbers or letters added at the end. Rod

[Bill in SoCal]

Very interesting - Thank you, Bill

[SteveB31]

No offense, but it usually takes about 30 minutes to remove the floorboards, starter, clutch pedal and steering column. Then it is much easier to rebuild the column properly.

[dlshady]

Originally Posted by SteveB31

No offense, but it usually takes about 30 minutes to remove the floorboards, starter, clutch pedal and steering column. Then it is much easier to rebuild the column properly.

That was my first thought exactly. Not trying to knock the OP because we all do things differently, but he could have had the steering column out of the car and laying on the workbench in the time it took to source the all-thread and make the adapters. Seems like a whole lot of extra work to me...

[msmaron]

I thought you video, was informative, well done and well thought out..Kudos to you