Chirping sound from engine

[Bob Johnson]

I filled up my tank today on my way the the local clubs monthly breakfast. To get there I have to drive over a couple of fairly steep hills on the highway. I was going about 55 mph up the first hill and I started to here a chirping sound coming from the engine. I raised the spark lever and it went away but as usual for this A I lost a little power by retarding the timing so I slowed down to about 45 and had to shift out of overdrive. This happened again going up the second hill. It also happened on the way back from the breakfast. It also occurred when there was a strong head wind.

I checked the timing and even put in a spare distributor but that did not help. With the engine idling I shorted out each spark plug one at a time. The engine stalled when shorting out #1 or #2 but kept running when #3 or #4 was shorted out. I did a compression test and #1 and #2 where OK but #3 and #4 were half of what they should have been. I did a leak down test and #3 leaked into #4 and #4 leaked into #3. So it appears that the head gasket is blown between #3 and #4. I had a head gasket blow March 2009 but it failed between #3 and the center water passage. At that time I checked the head/block gap and the maximum was about 0.007". I had the head resurfaced and then the gap was down to about 0.003" maximum.

I do not want to pull the engine at this time. Besides resurfacing the block, does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do when I replace the head gasket that will help prevent another blown gasket. BTW it is a Model B engine and the first gasket that blew was one of the new improved leak resistant gaskets with the silicone bead, which was on the car when I purchased it. The current one is a copper / composition / copper gasket. I used the spray on copper sealant on that gasket before I installed it. I did torque the nuts in the correct order and rechecked them several times after putting some miles on the car.

Bob

[Art Bjornestad]

Bob, what are the size of the cylinders? Were you using the Fel-Pro gasket? How much torque on the nuts?

[Ian in Mississauga]

If your copper gasket is a no-name , replace it. On mine I use a Felpro. Sorry I forget what's best for a model B. . You don't happen to drain the coolant for winter do you?

[Bob Johnson]

I think the cylinders are bored out 60 over. 55 ft-lbs torque. It is a daily driver 12 months a year so I do not drain for winter.

Bob

[steve s]

I can't help you with your main question, but the only chirping sounds I've heard have been from the fan belt or maybe the water pump birdie.

You'll get lots of opinions on the gasket issue. My impression is that .003" is marginally acceptable. Also, I've heard that the newer silicone gaskets are improved. Let us know how it works out.

Steve

[Michael in Sedona]

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I've had the exact same thing, only no chirping. I had a head gasket fail completely between #3 and #4. The engine would just barely run. Good compression on #1 and #2, but zero on #3 and #4. I used the new Felpro gasket, and she's like new again. I've read that this is a particularly weak point in the head gasket.

[Stan/MO.]

I had a chriping noise in my coupe, and it sounded like the belt. So I tightend the belt, and put some belt dressing on it, but it didn't help. So I put a screwdriver handle on the front of generator pully and put some pressure on it while it was running, and that stopped it. This car sat for many years, and I greased and oiled everything, but I guess I didn't put enough oil in the generator. I oiled it again and the chirping stopped. This may not be your problem, but when I heard the word "CHIRPING" that was the first thing I thought of. Good luck and let us know what you findout.

Stan

[Geo. H]

I've had much better luck using a Model B head gasket on my B engine with an A high comp head. I buy them from Snyders. They're gray composition, a bugger to clean off, but they work.

[Bob Johnson]

Geo. H

Is this the one you are using ? (click on link below)

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1073



Bob

[vtwinsideways]

I've had 3 different chirping noises and none of them were good. 1. Genny seizing (Apparently I didn't get enough oil in mine either) 2. Water pump semi-failure (Omega Leakless 1 yr. old.- I say semi-failure, because I noticed the noise before it was too late, and it was still repairable.) 3. And by far the worst, right before my rear main shucked the babbitt 60 miles from home heading to a show!

[Bob Johnson]

I am fairly certain that the noise (chirping) is a due to a small gasket leak between cylinders #3 and #4. A compression test shows about 30 pounds for both #3 and #4 cylinders. But a leak down test shows a leak between #3 and #4. So under heavy load the exhaust gases are escaping to the other cylinder and coming out the carburetor. I am not sure if the noise is produced as the gases pass through the hole in the head gasket or if it is produced when the gases escape out through the carburetor.

In any case my question was, short of resurfacing the top of the block, what can I do to help prevent another blown gasket. Is there a sealant that I can put on the head gasket at the likely spots where it could blow? Should I spray an extra heavy coat of the copper head gasket spray in those areas? Or ?????


Bob

[gilitos]

My block is bored .120 over and I've been thinking seriously about a HC head...this thread makes me wonder if the larger bore will result in big head gasket headaches. Will the thinner web between the cylinders make it hard to keep a seal there? Anybody have any experience with this?

[Old182]

Had a friend's '30 Tudor for the summer and it started chirping - turned out to be the water pump. Check the easy stuff first.

[Larry Seemann]

For many years I have used only the "B" - steel & composition- gasket with no failures. I also always spray it well with copper coat. I've always felt that there must be some reason why Ford went that route back in '32.

[Michael in Sedona]

When I replaced my blown head gasket, I sprayed a generous amount of CopperCoat to both sides of the new gasket. No more leaks in 6 years now.

[cannon]

valve stem is dry: pour some marvel mystery oil in the carb: just a little bit.

[Rich in Tucson]

Originally Posted by gilitos

My block is bored .120 over and I've been thinking seriously about a HC head...this thread makes me wonder if the larger bore will result in big head gasket headaches. Will the thinner web between the cylinders make it hard to keep a seal there? Anybody have any experience with this?

Running an A block bored 0.125 over, FelPro gasket, generous amount of Coppercoat, Brumfield 5.9 head installed per maker's instructions with no problems. Both deck and head were measured to ~0.0015 edge to edge variation before assembly however as far as I recall.

The only consistently identifiable problem with this setup that I have knowledge of occurs when the operator fails to accept the fact that you do not need to advance timing as far with a HC head as with a stock head. The gasket will go if you pull the lever down all the way and leave it there.

[Glenn C.]

Using a modern type electronic stethoscope, that picks up audible noise from the air vibrations in the vicinity of the problem, may be your answer. Not all that expensive to buy.
IMO your noise could be a badly worn camshaft plunger bore in the front cover.